I was gonna say that pulling on the pass side like it is is against the stop. I think I have room to flip it.
Looking at the location of the grommet I am still not sure if the angle would work pulling it back. I really won’t know until I get home and start jacking with it. Unfortunately that is still 19 days from now. I am just trying to map all this out in my head so I can try and get this money pit fired up for the first time in 3 years in the short amount of time I have at the house.
Paul you are welcome to come turn a wrench or offer design input. Same goes for anyone here.
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I bet itll work, and if you had to extend the arm, thats easier than whats been mentioned before (with cutting the existing etc) and would be easier to reverse if you ever changed designs or wanted to sell the tb If I havve some time, I may come by. Ive been talking with you for years and never even met you lol
I bet itll work, and if you had to extend the arm, thats easier than whats been mentioned before (with cutting the existing etc) and would be easier to reverse if you ever changed designs or wanted to sell the tb If I havve some time, I may come by. Ive been talking with you for years and never even met you lol
I land in DFW on the 6th and plan on working on it until the 24th. I could use a good how to on removing the damn HVAC box from the firewall. I thought I had all the bolts out and nuts off and it still would not budge.
I have a punch list that gets bigger everyday but I need to power through it so she will start. That is the reason for all my threads; I am planning, plotting, and scheming to make sure I can get it done.
I land in DFW on the 6th and plan on working on it until the 24th. I could use a good how to on removing the damn HVAC box from the firewall. I thought I had all the bolts out and nuts off and it still would not budge.
I am afraid of breaking the damn thing. I was able to squeeze the heater core out and back in after we welded -an fittings to the inlet/outlet. NO hose clamps allowed.
I am afraid of breaking the damn thing. I was able to squeeze the heater core out and back in after we welded -an fittings to the inlet/outlet. NO hose clamps allowed.
no. pull the carpet back and theres a single in the floor. its a 3/8 if i remember right. And, there should be two studs in the engine bay (at least fox, but i think sn were the same) Its been a while for an sn
no. pull the carpet back and theres a single in the floor. its a 3/8 if i remember right. And, there should be two studs in the engine bay (at least fox, but i think sn were the same) Its been a while for an sn
Well that would be the one I missed. I got them both from under the hood (1 is the stud for the dryer). I am going to need the HVAC out of the way to put my holes in the wall for the new connectors.
Well that would be the one I missed. I got them both from under the hood (1 is the stud for the dryer). I am going to need the HVAC out of the way to put my holes in the wall for the new connectors.
lol, thats the one that got me on the first core I ever did...shit, that was a long time ago!
why not just cut the nub off and weld it back in a better orientation?
This might be the route we go. I just need to make sure that we can get full throttle movement with where the studs ends up with the cable pulling backwards.
This might be the route we go. I just need to make sure that we can get full throttle movement with where the studs ends up with the cable pulling backwards.
could you not just have the stud facing inward, it looks like it will hit the fuel rail if it were point like i had it in the edited picture.
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