Throttle linkag modification

[KBScobravert]

I am looking for some input or advice here. The car is a SN95 pushrod motor and I have switched to a completely different intake system. Went from the SN95 Throttle Body to a Super Victor EFI with a 90* elbow and Fox Throttle Body. The problem I am trying to tackle now is the throttle cable and linkage. The big twist is the T/B is mounted with the distributor normally sits and rotated 90* to put the linkage on the side instead of the bottom like a normal fox set up. With it on the side I can not send the cable in at a 90* offset like a standard fox linkage runs. I need it to run parallel like a SN95 set up but the Fox T/B linkage does not move that way.

I think I can cut the spot weld and the tab twist the face plate with the stud 90* and reweld. Any comments.







can not turn sideways because of this


big picture

[Z06killinsbf]

Can you make a base for the bonnet that off sets it to the side or maybe even a spacer to get it up about the dist portion? The dist is the main reason to not clock the TB correctly right?

[KBScobravert]

Can you make a base for the bonnet that off sets it to the side or maybe even a spacer to get it up about the dist portion? The dist is the main reason to not clock the TB correctly right?

In short, no. I can not afford any height changes. You can see the clay on top of the first picture, that is my hood clearance.

I also have a factory SN95 T/B and a BBK 70mm SN95 T/B that I could also use for parts if need.

The other option is to remove the stud and grommet on the T/B linkage on their now and attach a plate to it with a new stud location. Think, the universal race T/B that have the ring with a pulley groove and multiple cable positioning options.

[dville_gt]

why not just cut the nub off and weld it back in a better orientation?

[KBScobravert]

why not just cut the nub off and weld it back in a better orientation?

If by nub you mean the little ball stud. There is not any realestate on the plate that puts it in orientation for a pull straight back.

I can't see the pic you posted until later when I get off work. Maybe that explains better.

[dville_gt]

ya, you'd have to make an arm to drop it down below the pivot point so that it'd open as the cable was pulled. just seems easier to cut the stud off, then make a short drop down arm from the opposite part vs. cutting and rewelding with the spring and having to deal with the throttle stop etc.

[Snatch Napkin]

I've modified a few throttle bodies in the manner you are discussing.

You might want to see if you can source an explorer throttle body for it's arm. IIRC, it rotates in the exact manner you are needing.

I had one laying around from the last one I did. I'll go look at it to see if it will work.

It is easy to do. Simply grind down the portion of the shaft that has been smashed to retain the arm. Slip the other arm on and spot weld it.


EDIT: Scratch the explorer arm. Won't work unless you could bring the throttle cable around the front of the TB and have it pull towards the front of the car. It would also put you real close to the limits of your hood clearance.

[Snatch Napkin]

Weak photoshop skills leave me with a crappy cell phone pic for a demonstration.

[KBScobravert]

In theory if I cut the tap like my pic says above then cut the spot weld out the spring and blade should not move. The spring is still applying tension to the rest of the mechanism which is jammed against the throttle stop screw. I am going off the assumption that the other half of the mechanism that I am leaving in place is keyed on the shaft up against the body of the housing. That is an assumption. I can lock the blade in place either way just in case it is not keyed. If I open the plate's center where the spot weld was and rotate it to put the stud where i need it I should be able to reweld it back in its new position and then tack weld the tab back to the plate where ever it lands. All this is theory of course and I would know for 100% until I break out the dremel and start to grind and cut. Worst case I start to cannibalize some t/b to get it done.

[Snatch Napkin]

The keyed portion of your throttle arm is on the end.

If you notice in the pic I put up, there is a portion that was ground down. That is the outer portion of the arm.

I have seen where a lot of people in your situation simply use a longer throttle cable to pull from the front of the vehicle. Can you not get away with this on your car?

I would practice with a stock throttle body for any kind of modification. Those can be found any where. I've probably got a few laying around myself, but I'm in Longview. I will be coming up to DFW this weekend, though.

[greenbullitt]

put a holley ball stud where the auto trans linkage used to go and still use it as a "pull style" throttle to hell with cutting up the tb

[Snatch Napkin]

Craptastical paintshop, but it might help to describe what I'm getting at.

[Snatch Napkin]

put a holley ball stud where the auto trans linkage used to go and still use it as a "pull style" throttle to hell with cutting up the tb

Get outta here with that easy shit!!

I forgot all about that one. lol

[greenbullitt]

I should mention, the linkage would need to be on the ds to make that possible (flip the tb 180*) so you arent pulling against the idle stop lol

[KBScobravert]

I should mention, the linkage would need to be on the ds to make that possible (flip the tb 180*) so you arent pulling against the idle stop lol

I was gonna say that pulling on the pass side like it is is against the stop. I think I have room to flip it.

Looking at the location of the grommet I am still not sure if the angle would work pulling it back. I really won’t know until I get home and start jacking with it. Unfortunately that is still 19 days from now. I am just trying to map all this out in my head so I can try and get this money pit fired up for the first time in 3 years in the short amount of time I have at the house.

Paul you are welcome to come turn a wrench or offer design input. Same goes for anyone here.
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