have you done a block test yet? it could have a blown hg
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LS-coupe cooling saga continues :(
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Originally posted by dville_gt View PostThen what do I do, I've tried jacking the car up so that the water neck is the highest point and running it/leaving it. Tried filling it, running it, letting it cool, etc. I'd like to think this is the problem but if it is I don't know what to do to get the trapped air out.Ring and pinion specialist
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Originally posted by redrocket5.0 View PostLook at the white Gt in background. Not too bad looking, dont know how a lx bumper would look cut. A little drastic, but an idea.
OP, I would look into the possibly an air pocket like mentioned above.
Is it losing any water? My GT has a 2 1 1/4in row aluminum radiator, a 98 mark 8 fan, stock water pump, 165 degree thermostat with the factory air deflecter under it. It runs 210-200 range in this heat with the AC on.
What are the dimensions on that radiator? it doesn't look like a mustang radiator.Vortex rear stand $75
8.8 410s. $50
**SKAGG NASTY**
My goal in life is to not arrive at the grave in a well preserved body.
but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting "holy shit!!!.. what a ride!"
1990 Foxbody GT for that ass
114 door
13 FX2 White 5.0
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I retract my previous statement about air deflector and insert air DAM rather. I understand what you are saying Blackpony, I was meaning the air dam that goes under the core support that is meant to help push air up into the radiator/condenser area. I've seen 82-93 camaros overheat at highway speed when they are missing, but cool great at idle.
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Originally posted by kbscobravert View PostIf your hose is too high I would cut the hose at the highest point. Insert a tube sleeve with a 1/8" pipe plug female fitting and a plug. When you fill the coolant pull the plug. Water will push the air out.
Another method is to tap into a upper coolant jacket to release air. I am not familiar enough with LSx but do they have coolant passages in the rear of the intake?
I installed a rear coolant cross over in my SBF Super Victor to feed my heater core and also give me a fitting to crack to blead air from.
Look at how the 4v motors are set up with expansion tanks to fill instead of radiators. The Cobra R expansion tank used to be offered by FRPP for just this purpose. Cobra kit cars have been battling this problem since they started making them. Their radiators are slanted and lower than the motor which causes them to get air also.
I also saw that you are missing the flaps on the cooling fan, and that's just another way for your fans to suck in engine heat.
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Originally posted by Blackpony View PostTry making some sort of deflector on the bottom of the core support that catches air and make it go up towards the radiator. Also add some deflectors along the side of the radiator that doesnt allow hot air to circulate back to the front and keeps the cooler air running across the core..Originally posted by shumpertdavid View PostI retract my previous statement about air deflector and insert air DAM rather. I understand what you are saying Blackpony, I was meaning the air dam that goes under the core support that is meant to help push air up into the radiator/condenser area. I've seen 82-93 camaros overheat at highway speed when they are missing, but cool great at idle.
oh and a dam will block the air, a deflector will deflect/direct the air to where it is needed..
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Originally posted by dville_gt View Post
I have two electric fans going full tilt but my thought is maybe since it cant get access to fresh air through the front bumper it is just pulling air from the engine bay back through the radiator.
Sort of confusing considering how that's worded. I think I see what you mean, but I just want to be clear.US Politics in three words - Divide and Conquer
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I agree with others on adding an air delfelctor or dam which ever you want to call it under the car to direct the air. I have seen just adding this part drop the temps up to 20* alone. Also make sure none your hoses are soft as they will collaspe at higher speeds once the coolant starts flowing...
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Originally posted by MstangsBware View PostI agree with others on adding an air delfelctor or dam which ever you want to call it under the car to direct the air. I have seen just adding this part drop the temps up to 20* alone. Also make sure none your hoses are soft as they will collaspe at higher speeds once the coolant starts flowing...Ring and pinion specialist
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I doubt it's an airflow problem. My car will cycle the fans on/off sitting still in the heat and will run too cold if I force the fans to stay on. Thats with a stock F-body radiator/fans. Did you get your water pump belt routing sorted out? I think you were on the right path with that idea. Also what steam tube setup do you have between the two cylinder heads?
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Originally posted by greenbullitt View Posthe said it gets hot sitting still or moving. an air deflector will not fix his problem
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I cant see cutting the bumper or adding a deflector doing much for stationary cooling. If anything just make some panels to fill the gaps between the radiator support and radiator/condenser sides.
There has to be air in the system or the pump itself is bad. A very small amount of air in the system will decrease the systems cooling capacity dramatically. I went through the same deal with my swap and it ended up being a used pump I cheaper out on.
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