Used to drive a buddies 98 with eibach drag springs, and then his blown 92 when we swapped them over to it. Both ran skinnies up front and no sway bars, been upwards of 150 in the 98 as both driver and passenger on the highway. It would float pretty bad, the couPe didn't topend as quiet as high but would also float. Also ran tokico adjustable set loose on rebound to help lift. I did the spring swap on the cars and don't ever care to do another set. Those springs, upper and lower control arms, 4.30's, a 70 dry shot, and drag radials put the turd 98 into the low 8's and high 7's on a regular basis back in the day. Won many a race back in Mexico when we had some action in Grayson about 7 years ago or so
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Eibach drag spring, poly isolator questions.
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Since front drag springs are tall, the hard part is getting them in. With shorter lowering springs you can just jack the control arm up with the control arm bolts in place. With long springs and the control arm bolts in the k-member, sometimes you can't get the control arm up high enough before it hits the spring and it makes the spring want to bow out and not seat right when you put pressure on it through the A-arm. They can fly out when you try to jack them up because of this.Atlantic Blue '00 - '03 Cobra motor and TKO600, solid axle, full MM suspension
Silver '01 Vette - D1 blown LS
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Originally posted by 91CoupeMike View PostThought crossed my mind, the the so did the danger.
Any spring compressors that are better then others?Atlantic Blue '00 - '03 Cobra motor and TKO600, solid axle, full MM suspension
Silver '01 Vette - D1 blown LS
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Originally posted by 91CoupeMike View PostThought crossed my mind, the the so did the danger.
Any spring compressors that are better then others?"If I asked people what they wanted, they would have said faster horses." - Henry Ford
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Originally posted by 91CoupeMike View PostIf the front is suppose to be stiff, why do people run 4cyl springs in the front?
There was a 5 page thread on this. Me and Lason argued about this very same thing.
The rear being soft makes sense, but in drag racing the rear is suppose to be firm, while the front suspensio unloads and loads the weight to the rear, if the rear was soft the springs and shocks would "bottom out" and cause bad traction or in some cases a wheel stand.
Not trying to argue just asking an honest question.
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Originally posted by 03shadow2v View PostLol this guy has u so traumatized u have to let him no your not arguing
I've heard of springs getting lose and going through walls.
320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'
DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq
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Originally posted by 91CoupeMike View PostThought crossed my mind, the the so did the danger.
Any spring compressors that are better then others?
Originally posted by Baron View PostI can't get the link to copy on my phone, but Maximum motorsprts sells one (that's actaully pretty iinexpensive) that is made for mustangs.
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I used this kit from maximum motorsports, It allows spring to stay in while putting arm back up to seat spring. I put same springs in my car, had to use ratchet straps to pull them down til the tool does its job. Once you have it seated, be sure jack is sitting under arm good. Release the straps one at a time. Or you can wait to move straps after you have bolt in strut. Its nerve racking, but simple. I also made this same tool out of a piece of 10inch exhaust strap, couldn't wait, got creative. It worked. Hope this helps.
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