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5.0 Coyote in SN95

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  • #46
    Originally posted by woody View Post
    Yes
    Very kool! I have spoken to you on corral numerous times. my sn is white93pony71 over there. Very nice to see you on here, you do incredible work!!!

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    • #47
      Originally posted by BlackGT View Post
      How would it be a lot lighter? The Coyote is only around 440 lbs
      found out the shipping tag on the new Z363 crate motors from FRPP is 450lbs. That's an Iron Boss Block. Coyote is heavy!

      Comment


      • #48
        Originally posted by woody View Post
        Yes
        Welcome!
        ZOMBIE REAGAN FOR PRESIDENT 2016!!! heh

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        • #49
          found out the shipping tag on the new Z363 crate motors from FRPP is 450lbs. That's an Iron Boss Block. Coyote is heavy!
          The Z363 does not have Intake, Headers or Carb.
          The Coyote is 430 lbs which includes 4 valve heads with cams, Intake, TB, Injectors, Wiring, Fuel Rails, EVERYTHING. So, no, it's not that heavy. Take off at least 40 lbs for everything I listed except the heads, probably closer to 50, and you have an equally dressed engine as the Z363 that is 60-70 lbs lighter...
          First Model Year 2011
          Engine Family Modular
          Code Name Coyote
          Displacement 4957cc (302 ci)
          Bore x Stroke 92.2 x 92.8mm (3.263 x 3.647 inch)
          Horsepower

          •412 hp @ 6,500 rpm, 91 octane
          •402 hp @ 6,500 rpm, 87 octane
          Torque

          •390 lb-ft @ 4,250 rpm, 91 octane
          •377 lb-ft @ 4,250 rpm, 87 octane
          Shipping Weight 430 pounds, includes water pumpBlock Low-pressure cast 319 aluminum, pressed-in thin-wall iron liners
          Bore Spacing 100mm (3.937-inch)
          Deck Height 227mm (8.937-inch)
          Deck Thickness 13mm (0.510-inch)
          Cylinder Head Retention 12mm bolts, 4 per cylinder, 10 bolts total per bank


          Oil 5W/20 weight, mineral
          Oil Pan Stamped steel, 8 quarts
          Windage Tray Integral w/oil pan gasket
          Oil Pump Gerotor
          Pistons Hypereutectic, short-skirt, flat-top w/four equal valve reliefs; moly friction-reducing coating; oil-jet cooled
          Piston weight 500 grams
          Piston Pin Full-floating, 22mm diameter
          Piston Pin Retention Wire lock
          Piston Rings 1.2 x 1.2 x 2.5 mm, moly top ring
          Connecting Rod Powered metal forging, I-beam, no balance pad
          Connecting Rod Length 150.7mm (5.933-inch)
          Rod/Stroke Ratio 1.62
          Crankshaft Forged steel, fully counterweighted, induction hardened
          Main Journal 67.5mm (2.652-inch) diameter
          Rod Journal 53.0mm (2.082-inch) diameter


          Flywheel Retention Eight-bolt
          Cylinder Heads Aluminum, four-valve per cylinder
          Head Bolts 12mm, four per cylinder
          Valve Covers Composite
          Compression ratio 11.0:1
          Valves 37 x 31mm (1.454 x 1.218-inch), four per cylinder
          Camshafts DOHC, four camshafts, independently adjustable timing
          Camshaft Timing Twin independent variable
          Duration 260 degrees intake, 263 degrees exhaust
          Lift 12mm (0.472-inch) intake, 11mm (0.432-inch) exhaust
          Lift Limit 13mm (0.510-inch) physical limit in head
          Valve Followers Roller-finger follower
          Lash Adjusters Hydraulic
          Coolant Organic (red)


          Exhaust Manifold Short-tube, S44100 stainless-steel Tri-Y tubular headers; 10mm mounting studs w/prevailing torque nuts
          Intake Manifold Constant cross section, long-runner single-plane (single-scroll); molded composite w/upper section colored; front throttle body mount
          Throttle Body Single-blade, 80mm, e-throttle
          Engine Management Software Copperhead
          Mass Air Meter 86mm, digital
          Oxygen Sensors Universal Exhaust Gas
          Knock Sensors Two, in block valley
          Ignition Timing Crank trigger, rear of crankshaft
          Ignition Coil-on plug
          Spark Plug NGK Iridium
          Firing Order 1 5 4 8 6 3 7 2
          Cylinder Numbering

          •Right bank: 1, 2, 3, 4
          •Left bank: 5, 6, 7, 8
          Fuel System Port fuel injection, returnless
          Fuel Injectors 32.8-lb/hr
          Fuel Pressure 55 psi
          Fuel Requirement 87 octane minimum, 91 octane best/rated power


          Read more: http://www.mustang50magazine.com/tec...#ixzz1SfHx7nvb
          "Laws that forbid the carrying of arms...disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes...Such laws make things worse for the assaulted and better for the assailants; they serve rather to encourage than to prevent homicides, for an unarmed man may be attacked with greater confidence than an armed man." - Thomas Jefferson, 1776

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          • #50
            Originally posted by woody View Post
            The biggest bonehead move on that engine is the use of the 3/8 ths capscrew scat I beam rod, which is really meant for a stock block, so this prohibits a TON of potential sales to the power adder community. The factory always had the best stuff, now today the ford racing segment is a mere sheel, with a ton of "ok" reboxed ford racing parts. On the flipside I do realize ford must sell cars and not go fast parts.
            Yep. And for my application, NA is the only way to go......power adders with road racing don't mix. Plus everything is power to weight ratio.
            "Racing is life.....everything else is just waiting" - Steve McQueen

            Comment


            • #51
              Originally posted by woody View Post
              The biggest bonehead move on that engine is the use of the 3/8 ths capscrew scat I beam rod, which is really meant for a stock block, so this prohibits a TON of potential sales to the power adder community. The factory always had the best stuff, now today the ford racing segment is a mere sheel, with a ton of "ok" reboxed ford racing parts. On the flipside I do realize ford must sell cars and not go fast parts.
              Woody,
              If you would spend your time building bad ass engines instead of posting on every forum under the sun, I would own one of your motors as would cyaz06. The reality is I called you and you blew me off stating that if I wanted an engine in the next 6-12 months you could not help me.

              I have heard you do nothing but bash these engines and Ford Racing for the past 6 months which does not showcase you in a positive light and probably turns other people off the way it does me. You come off sounding more arrogant than confident. Just the opinion of a would have been customer and a could be future customer.

              The reality is it is a damn good bang for the buck for those of us running it N/A with no power adders in sub 3K lb cars.
              1988 hatch American Iron Spec road race car
              Ford Racing Boss z363 / TKO 600 rr
              Full Maximum suspension

              Comment


              • #52
                Originally posted by Trackiscrack View Post
                Woody,
                If you would spend your time building bad ass engines instead of posting on every forum under the sun, I would own one of your motors as would cyaz06. The reality is I called you and you blew me off stating that if I wanted an engine in the next 6-12 months you could not help me.

                I have heard you do nothing but bash these engines and Ford Racing for the past 6 months which does not showcase you in a positive light and probably turns other people off the way it does me. You come off sounding more arrogant than confident. Just the opinion of a would have been customer and a could be future customer.

                The reality is it is a damn good bang for the buck for those of us running it N/A with no power adders in sub 3K lb cars.

                And who are you again?

                People do get lunch breaks, and dont work 24 hrs a day. Just because he is online promoting his business and will not build you an engine immediately you are wanting to bash him? What a douch. He does have other people that have already paid for engines and ordered them that he must build. Its called getting your ass in line and waiting. I have spoken with Woody numerous times and he has given me the answers I was after. AND i have not bought a thing from him!! Never met him, but just talking he is a great guy with a vast amount of knowledge!

                Comment


                • #53
                  Originally posted by Steve View Post
                  I don't have sigs turned on so I didn't see that.

                  I'm just wondering on what basis you can say the Coyote motor is superior to that 03/04 shortblock which has been proven many times to be reliable at 1000rw+ with stock internals and block?


                  You wanna race my stockblocked car?
                  Lol @ 1000 rwhp stock.
                  Maybe for a couple days, but not even an entire season of racing.


                  To the op: do a 2012 boss 5.0 swap. A wiring harness can be included from ford racing which would make it a swap. Oh, and buy from tousley ford online. Only 10% over the cost they buy it at. About 20% off the msrp at fordracing.com
                  Full time ninja editor.

                  Comment


                  • #54
                    Originally posted by majorownage View Post
                    Lol @ 1000 rwhp stock.
                    Maybe for a couple days, but not even an entire season of racing.
                    I have seen many holding those power levels for many years..
                    So long as the tune up is solid, you shouldnt have a problem.

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      Originally posted by Blackpony View Post
                      I have seen many holding those power levels for many years..
                      So long as the tune up is solid, you shouldnt have a problem.
                      Exactly.

                      Comment


                      • #56
                        Well, this thread turned into a couple of people that have no clue what they're talking about come in and spew their BS as if it was true. /Picard

                        Comment


                        • #57
                          For what it will cost, sell your car and buy a C5 FRC or Z06, and be faster and have a nicer car that gets better mileage and won't be a big pain in the ass swap car.

                          My FRC STOCK outran a stock Coyote Track-pack. That's just plain SAD imo to get drug by a 108,xxx miled stock car built 13 years ago with less rated power...

                          Comment


                          • #58
                            Originally posted by STROKD View Post
                            For what it will cost, sell your car and buy a C5 FRC or Z06, and be faster and have a nicer car that gets better mileage and won't be a big pain in the ass swap car.

                            My FRC STOCK outran a stock Coyote Track-pack. That's just plain SAD imo to get drug by a 108,xxx miled stock car built 13 years ago with less rated power...
                            I raced a c-5 zo6 it was neck and neck i only have a couple of bolt on's

                            Comment


                            • #59
                              Originally posted by STROKD View Post
                              For what it will cost, sell your car and buy a C5 FRC or Z06, and be faster and have a nicer car that gets better mileage and won't be a big pain in the ass swap car.

                              My FRC STOCK outran a stock Coyote Track-pack. That's just plain SAD imo to get drug by a 108,xxx miled stock car built 13 years ago with less rated power...
                              I'll rape your C5 with my swap car mister.

                              Comment


                              • #60
                                Originally posted by Blackpony View Post
                                I have seen many holding those power levels for many years..
                                So long as the tune up is solid, you shouldnt have a problem.
                                Originally posted by Steve View Post
                                Exactly.
                                Have you ever seen a stock cylinder head after this type of power? Everything is toast. The stock valve guides (powdered metal) cannot keep up with massive amount of heat with associated with 1000rwhp. The seats also will show a considerable amount of wear. Not to mention the rings will be roasted, the stock aluminum backed bearings will be pounded to death, and possible piston scuffing.

                                There is a reason the ford gt/gt500 heads have bronze guides/copper-be seats.

                                Just because the car will survive a 1000rwhp dyno tune session does not mean it will last the test of time.

                                If the car was only used occasionally, and not abused (keeping WOT sessions less than 10ish seconds), the stock engine factors of saftey should be able to keep it operational...at least for a while.

                                There is a reason high specific hp engines have shortened engine life spans.
                                Full time ninja editor.

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