MAF for 30LB injectors?...poor idle, flooding, help needed.

[billet works]

I was talking to 5.0 CJ earlier and he mentioned posting up here. I'm in Arlington near 303 and Fielder and just finished a 5.0 swap in my '93. I'm experiencing a bit of idle surge and after a few minutes at idle it's flooding out. Above idle it runs great and has no lag, even off the bottom. I've currently got a C&L MAF in the car and we think the problem may be the C&L unit. If anyone has a different MAF for 30LB injectors, and is close, would ya mind popping by to swap in and see if that is actually it or not. Should just take a minute.

Thanks guys.

Don aka Billet Works

[beefed88]

what is your setup? cold air?

[billet works]

List of specs:
Keith craft 306 with ross pistons and h beams
E cam
Freshly reworked gt40's
1.6 fms rockers
Bbk long tubes with 40's dumped
Rpm2 upper and lower intake
Edelbrock 70mm tb and egr plate
Bbk In fender cold air
CL 73mm Maf with purple 94-95 30# sample tube
Red top injectors 30#
Bbk fpr and 255lph in tank pump
Built t5
Black magic fan

[dumpycapri85]

I have a Pro-M cal-ed for 30's but I would not be able to bring it to you . If you wanted to pick it up you could try it . I'm in NRH .

[beefed88]

Try it with a stock airbox. And I think 30s are too much. We just fixed my buddy's car by taking the c&l throwing it in the trash and buying a pro-m.

[billet works]

Well, first off, I can't thank dumpycapri85 enough here. He let me borrow his ProM for 30's last night like it was no big deal.

Although not all of my problems are fixed, the MAF swap did the trick regarding the surge and dying issue. I just let the car warm all the way up, idled prefectly down to 950 rpms, and drove it around the block. Got back and let it idle a bit more checking my fan/cooling systems and looking the whole setup over...all while still running great. Then I killed it and tried restarting. Seems flooded...although all the issues over the last week could have the plugs toasted. I'm sure it'll start back up after it sits for a bit. Any ideas?

BW

[bigshoe]

Hold it to the floor and try to start it. Holding it at wot while cranking will cut the injectors off if its flooded so it will start, at least that will tell you if its actually flooded or not. I chased my tail on hot start problems years ago, ended up being the IAT sensor was bad.

[billet works]

Holding to the floor it still won't start until it cools off. I do smell gas but it doesn't even try firing while it's warm.

[bigshoe]

Holding to the floor it still won't start until it cools off. I do smell gas but it doesn't even try firing while it's warm.

Weird. When I was having my problems and trying to diag them sometimes I would unplug several injectors to get it to start, usually holding it to the floor it would start though.

what did you use for a harness for your conversion?

[billet works]

I believe the harness is from a '91 GT. My starter, alternator, and all major battery leads are all brand new. It seems as if the surge and poor idle have been fixed by the MAF, and now I'm left with a hot starting issue. Once it warms up it just will not start once shut off. It cranks just fine and the fuel smell is strong...but no kick, pop, snap, or anything. Checked for spark and it's got it. How would I go about checking the IAT?

[Diabolic]

I would look at the ECT rather than the ACT sensor. Better yet is to go ahead and replace both. I'm not too sure about the GUF strategy that you have but I do know that cranking fuel is effected by the ECT sensor. Check the FP when it's hot and make sure you are getting good pressure.

[Diabolic]

Try this

http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,588.0.html

[turbos66coupe]

Did you by chance disconnect the battery when you swapped the maf to clear KAM. Long shot but may help. I don't think it would effect cranking fuel pulse width but ford do some funky stuff if you don't clear kam.

[Rtanner]

Hey be sure and check your tp sensor voltage at idle, had to reset mine the other day, huge difference, it was showing Like 2.2 at idle makin it real rich, computer thought I was driving, not idling!!!

[billet works]

I would look at the ECT rather than the ACT sensor. Better yet is to go ahead and replace both. I'm not too sure about the GUF strategy that you have but I do know that cranking fuel is effected by the ECT sensor. Check the FP when it's hot and make sure you are getting good pressure.

I'll look into those tomorrow.

Try this

http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,588.0.html

Been reading constantly on these the last few days and checking as I read. Car is running and idling better and better but still no kick when hot. Gonna try a few more things tomorrow from the checklists I've found online.

Did you by chance disconnect the battery when you swapped the maf to clear KAM. Long shot but may help. I don't think it would effect cranking fuel pulse width but ford do some funky stuff if you don't clear kam.

I've disconnected to clear it every time I make a change.

Hey be sure and check your tp sensor voltage at idle, had to reset mine the other day, huge difference, it was showing Like 2.2 at idle makin it real rich, computer thought I was driving, not idling!!!

This is a new TPS and I think it could be off...gotta figure out how to get accurate readings on this tomorrow.

Thanks for all the help guys...please keep the suggestions coming and I'll keep posting my results.

Don