Water only kill a water pump?

[SMEGMA STENCH]

What about getting a radiator with more cores than the factory one? Or "rows" if you prefer. I think the factory radiator is a 3 row, and a nice 03 cobra aluminum radiator is a 4 row. (I think)

Would more rows in the radiator help out any? I'm thinking of getting a new radiator cause I flushed the coolant, changed the thermostat, and cleaned all the leaves and bugs from the radiator and condenser. And the problem remains. I noticed today that I can't even idle at a stop light with the AC on or the car gets too hot. Not overheating, but too hot. Its like to the "A" in the word "Normal" on the heat gauge.

[TENGRAM]

look man i am just saying that i was running 50/50 with no trouble switched to water thinking that it would run cooler and it ran hotter. switched back to 50/50 and problem solved. so what would be the scientific reason for this? don't knock my theory if you don't even have one.

Higher boiling point, more than likely. As has been mentioned, when water (or any fluid) begins to boil it cannot absorb heat as well due to the gases forming within the fluid.

and that's not true. more time in the radiator will prolong coolant contact with the internal lines on the radiator and thus allowing the cooling fins dissipate more heat, to an extent.

I know this is going to sound like a cop out... I'm not breaking out my old thermodynamics textbooks or searching for the experimental data I have from my own heat exchanger tests. Either trust me on it or not. Or, just think about it; it will make sense if you consider the entire cycle.

[TENGRAM]

What about getting a radiator with more cores than the factory one? Or "rows" if you prefer. I think the factory radiator is a 3 row, and a nice 03 cobra aluminum radiator is a 4 row. (I think)

Would more rows in the radiator help out any? I'm thinking of getting a new radiator cause I flushed the coolant, changed the thermostat, and cleaned all the leaves and bugs from the radiator and condenser. And the problem remains. I noticed today that I can't even idle at a stop light with the AC on or the car gets too hot. Not overheating, but too hot. Its like to the "A" in the word "Normal" on the heat gauge.

You need to get an accurate temperature reading before dropping too much cash. Harbor Freight sells a cheap IR thermometer that I use to check the temperature at the T-stat housing.

[jnobles06]

What about getting a radiator with more cores than the factory one? Or "rows" if you prefer. I think the factory radiator is a 3 row, and a nice 03 cobra aluminum radiator is a 4 row. (I think)

Would more rows in the radiator help out any? I'm thinking of getting a new radiator cause I flushed the coolant, changed the thermostat, and cleaned all the leaves and bugs from the radiator and condenser. And the problem remains. I noticed today that I can't even idle at a stop light with the AC on or the car gets too hot. Not overheating, but too hot. Its like to the "A" in the word "Normal" on the heat gauge.

before you go and do all that i would go and get the alternator/ battery checked.

when it gets hot look under the hood and if the fan is running unplug it or pull the fuse and look at the gauge and if its starts getting cooler with the fan off then its a charging/ battery problem. by disabling the fan if its already running hot it should get hotter and not cooler. if it gets cooler you know it is a voltage problem and you just took a big load off of the battery when you pulled the fuse. be careful when pulling the fuse, its a lot of amps.

fuse box diagram

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/94-95-tech/608d1036338026-need-fuse-box-diagram-1995-mustang-gt-esb01113.gif

[SMEGMA STENCH]

You need to get an accurate temperature reading before dropping too much cash. Harbor Freight sells a cheap IR thermometer that I use to check the temperature at the T-stat housing.

Ok I will do this, and have the alternator/battery checked just in case. The thermostat opens up at 193 (IIRC) and water boils at 212. So I wonder what the factory ford heat gauge considers to be "warm". Or "too hot". It would be really helpful if that gauge gave actual temps instead of just saying normal heh.