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  • #16
    Originally posted by aggie97 View Post
    The side tanks are bonded to the tubes with epoxy and they split when cold and then instantly hot when the tstat opens
    shit... thats fuckin rediculous why would they make them like that. so as far as a nice alluminum radiator what would you reccomend? price dont matter, i dont want anything cheap
    sigpic 92 GT, 5 Lugged, 306, Vortech V1 S Trim, 42# injectors, Aeromotive Boost Reference Fuel Pressure Regulator, MSD Boost Timing Master, TKO 600, Moser 31 Spline Axles, 3.73's.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by jw33 View Post
      Also get a quality water pump and throw it on when you do the radiator. I've had great luck with the top of the line NAPA brand. If you have or are getting a fan setup make sure it is sealed up well against the radiator so all the air is getting sucked through the radiator and not around it. Make sure the wiring/charging system is up to the task and put a quality controller/relay on it.
      thank you sir. thought about a Weiand high flow pump or a ford racing high flow pump and yes im definitely going to set it up with twin electric fans hooked up via sensor AND switch that way i can run it in traffic and not have to worry about lettin it get hot, jus let it blow cool
      sigpic 92 GT, 5 Lugged, 306, Vortech V1 S Trim, 42# injectors, Aeromotive Boost Reference Fuel Pressure Regulator, MSD Boost Timing Master, TKO 600, Moser 31 Spline Axles, 3.73's.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by fbodyjohnny View Post
        so how is it that running 205-210 is not bad???
        Cooling system wise, 210 is fine.

        With a 50/50 glycol:H20 mix and a 15psi cap on the rad you can run 247*F before 'overheating,' or boiling.


        Originally posted by Blackpony View Post
        I'd go with a 160 stat from parts store.
        From a thermodynamic standpoint why would a 160*F stat make a difference?
        Generally there's a 20*F delta between "cracking" and full-open on a stat, so even with a 180*F stat he's running full open... there shouldn't be any difference in coolant flow when over 200*F.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Strychnine View Post
          Cooling system wise, 210 is fine.

          With a 50/50 glycol:H20 mix and a 15psi cap on the rad you can run 247*F before 'overheating,' or boiling.

          From a thermodynamic standpoint why would a 160*F stat make a difference?
          Generally there's a 20*F delta between "cracking" and full-open on a stat, so even with a 180*F stat he's running full open... there shouldn't be any difference in coolant flow when over 200*F.
          All of what Matt said, plus the fact that it would run pig fucking rich with a 160* thermostat in it. Don't run a 160 in it.

          What's the timing set at ? Who tuned the car, if it has been tuned at all ? What does it have for a fan setup right now ? It would help if you gave us some more details.

          -Aaron

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          • #20
            Originally posted by CRASH View Post
            All of what Matt said, plus the fact that it would run pig fucking rich with a 160* thermostat in it. Don't run a 160 in it.

            What's the timing set at ? Who tuned the car, if it has been tuned at all ? What does it have for a fan setup right now ? It would help if you gave us some more details.

            -Aaron
            right now im not sure as far as timing, and tunewise,, its just ran by an FMU kinda sorta boost regulated.. the fan setup is stock as well as the water pump which im sure is the same old stock pump since day 1. thermostat wise idk either. all i know is it runs TOO hot lol
            sigpic 92 GT, 5 Lugged, 306, Vortech V1 S Trim, 42# injectors, Aeromotive Boost Reference Fuel Pressure Regulator, MSD Boost Timing Master, TKO 600, Moser 31 Spline Axles, 3.73's.

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            • #21
              so would i be alright if i went ahead and put in a 180* thermostat with a new high flow pump, radiator and twin electric fans? all im wanting is to run a constant "warm" 185-190 highest....
              sigpic 92 GT, 5 Lugged, 306, Vortech V1 S Trim, 42# injectors, Aeromotive Boost Reference Fuel Pressure Regulator, MSD Boost Timing Master, TKO 600, Moser 31 Spline Axles, 3.73's.

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              • #22
                With a 160 stat it will stay around 170-180 degrees, with a 180 it will stay 190-200 with a stock it will stay 200-210.. I have and am currently running a 160 in my car with no issues except my car running much cooler and better in the summer time.. I would suggest a quality water pump and not a reman unit. A ford racing high flow would be great! As for radiator, make sure the tanks are welded to the core. That will help eliminate leaks, and if it does leak, anyone with a tig should be able to fix it. I bought an eBay special 3" all aluminum unit with no issues.. If your fan is setup properly and can flow enough air, you shouldn't have any issues with over heating.

                Also I would definately recommend getting it looked at, as it should not run like crap once warmed up. There might be a noticeable difference, but it should still run good. Give us a call at the shop, I'm sure we can help out!

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Blackpony View Post
                  With a 160 stat it will stay around 170-180 degrees, with a 180 it will stay 190-200 with a stock it will stay 200-210.. I have and am currently running a 160 in my car with no issues except my car running much cooler and better in the summer time.. I would suggest a quality water pump and not a reman unit. A ford racing high flow would be great! As for radiator, make sure the tanks are welded to the core. That will help eliminate leaks, and if it does leak, anyone with a tig should be able to fix it. I bought an eBay special 3" all aluminum unit with no issues.. If your fan is setup properly and can flow enough air, you shouldn't have any issues with over heating.

                  Also I would definately recommend getting it looked at, as it should not run like crap once warmed up. There might be a noticeable difference, but it should still run good. Give us a call at the shop, I'm sure we can help out!
                  thank you, so lets say i get a 180* thermostat with everything else i listed,, and i ran my electric fans to where they turned on at 170 and ran until they hit 185,,, would that be ideal and better than a 160 thermostat?
                  sigpic 92 GT, 5 Lugged, 306, Vortech V1 S Trim, 42# injectors, Aeromotive Boost Reference Fuel Pressure Regulator, MSD Boost Timing Master, TKO 600, Moser 31 Spline Axles, 3.73's.

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                  • #24
                    To me it sounds like a lean-out issue one the engine fully warms. Lowing the fuel pressure will probably make it do it worse.

                    Stevo
                    Originally posted by SSMAN
                    ...Welcome to the land of "Fuck it". No body cares, and if they do, no body cares.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by stevo View Post
                      To me it sounds like a lean-out issue one the engine fully warms. Lowing the fuel pressure will probably make it do it worse.

                      Stevo
                      i see what ur saying and thanks for your input, i did notice how when i adjusted the regulator yesterday, starting at 50 psi, when i raised it first i realized it started idling a LOT smoother of course but it wasnt fully warmed up yet.. then when i lowered it to 43 thats when it started soundin choppy poppy popcorn lol. i'm runnin a pro-m 75mm maf with 30# injectors and an FMU with the bbk fuel pressure regulator, so should i actually raise it to keep it fueled when it gets hot?
                      sigpic 92 GT, 5 Lugged, 306, Vortech V1 S Trim, 42# injectors, Aeromotive Boost Reference Fuel Pressure Regulator, MSD Boost Timing Master, TKO 600, Moser 31 Spline Axles, 3.73's.

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                      • #26
                        here is a video of it after i lowered it to 43 psi from 50

                        like i said it did idle a lot smooth when i turned it up past 50 but i didnt think it was a great idea to leave it there so tell me what ya think
                        sigpic 92 GT, 5 Lugged, 306, Vortech V1 S Trim, 42# injectors, Aeromotive Boost Reference Fuel Pressure Regulator, MSD Boost Timing Master, TKO 600, Moser 31 Spline Axles, 3.73's.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by fbodyjohnny View Post
                          thank you, so lets say i get a 180* thermostat with everything else i listed,, and i ran my electric fans to where they turned on at 170 and ran until they hit 185,,, would that be ideal and better than a 160 thermostat?
                          No you want the fans to come on at around 190 and go off around 175-180. This would be a fine setup, and summit sells a nice fan controller kit. Has a sensor that screws into a water port and controls a relay to turn the fan off and on.. As for your fuel pressure, set it at 40 lbs with the vaccum unhooked from the regulator. If it runs bad with that, then you have problems somewhere else. What plugs are you running?

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Blackpony View Post
                            No you want the fans to come on at around 190 and go off around 175-180. This would be a fine setup, and summit sells a nice fan controller kit. Has a sensor that screws into a water port and controls a relay to turn the fan off and on.. As for your fuel pressure, set it at 40 lbs with the vaccum unhooked from the regulator. If it runs bad with that, then you have problems somewhere else. What plugs are you running?
                            thanks again for your help, i'll take a look at everything on summit and try to stay away from a mshimoto radiator. i did set it as low as i could which was 43, with vac unhooked but i THINK my FMU is bad which is why its not letting it come down to 40. im thinking maybe the disc in the FMU is froze up. i can adjust it as high as i want,, but not lower than 43, i even took the bolt all the way out of the regulator lol and it still stayed at 43. as for my plugs, the ones in it now are just the regular autolites,, i bought a nice new set of NGK's a buddy told me to get, i forgot the part number on them but i will get it. he is running the same plugs on his 393 supercharged fox and he said he never had a problem with them
                            sigpic 92 GT, 5 Lugged, 306, Vortech V1 S Trim, 42# injectors, Aeromotive Boost Reference Fuel Pressure Regulator, MSD Boost Timing Master, TKO 600, Moser 31 Spline Axles, 3.73's.

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                            • #29
                              I always thought that just raising the pressure did not really give you more fuel. If you put your finger over the end of a water hose, you get more pressure, but you pass less water. I run a 190 STOCK Ford stat in a 331 stroker with Trickflow heads and a GT 40 upper and lower intake. I run 30 pound FMS injectors. I have a stock fan, 3 row brass radiator, and I also run a 7 pound cap. I drove 10o miles yesterday with the AC on full cold. The temp stayed at 195 even when idling in towns. On the road at 70 MPH with 3:73's it stayed at 195. Could you have alittle crack or gasket leak tht is opening up at higher temps ? Do you lose any water ?

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                              • #30
                                still have your radiator deflector (underneath car)?

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