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  • Oil pump locked up - car won't start

    But it's not as bad as it sounds. I did not loose oil pressure, keep on driving and lock up the motor. Here's the scenario:

    2 days prior to incident, car is running weird. Power seems to be down. Can't quite put my finger on it.

    1 day prior, car is audibly detonating at high load/RPM. It is hot outside, so I pulled some timing with the tweecer. 4 degrees to be exact. Power is noticeably down.

    Day of incident I'm accelerating (not heavily) and there is a "thud" in the engine compartment. Engine dies and I immediately pull over. Car will not re-start and it sounds like it does when you have the dizzy 180 out. You know, the weird burp coming out of the intake.

    Called Dad with the trailer and loaded her up to go home. Upon inspection, I found that the valve events coincide with the timing marks on the balancer (indicating that it did not jump time). I pulled the distributor and the end of the oil pump drive rod was in the bottom of the dizzy, broken clean off. I put a 8mm socket on a long extension and discovered that the oil pump is locked up. That's all fine, I can replace the oil pump, but the thing is, I reinstalled the dizzy and it still will not start. I KNOW I CANNOT RUN IT WITH NO OIL PRESSURE, but I still want it to start before I pull the pan. The rotor is turning accordingly and stays in time, I have spark at the coil and at the plugs. Also, fuel pressure is good. WTF?
    -Dustin
    '94 Cobra
    Coast High 408, AFR 205s,
    1-3/4" BBK LTs, Tremec TKO,
    ZA0 Tweecer Self Tune

    09 F250 KR
    10" lift, 38s

  • #2
    Prob collapsed lifters. Just think how short your opening and closings are with the lifters "flat"(assuming you have hydraulic lifters). Now shoot the fuel injector with the valve almost closed or closed and you might not get the puddles to fire. Try a little starting fluid!
    If that doesn't do it it is time to dig!

    Comment


    • #3
      The lifters seem to still be pumped up. All the valves are opening as per my visual inspection with the valve cover off. It really seems like the timing is off. Could the jar of the oil pump breaking have busted the magnetic pickup in the distributor?
      -Dustin
      '94 Cobra
      Coast High 408, AFR 205s,
      1-3/4" BBK LTs, Tremec TKO,
      ZA0 Tweecer Self Tune

      09 F250 KR
      10" lift, 38s

      Comment


      • #4
        No! But, check the roll pin on the distributor gear!! I'll bet it sheared too!!

        Comment


        • #5
          Years ago, a 429 did the same to me and took out the timing chain.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by garycrist View Post
            No! But, check the roll pin on the distributor gear!! I'll bet it sheared too!!
            I didn't think that happened because the rotor is moving in a regular fashion, but I'll check it.
            -Dustin
            '94 Cobra
            Coast High 408, AFR 205s,
            1-3/4" BBK LTs, Tremec TKO,
            ZA0 Tweecer Self Tune

            09 F250 KR
            10" lift, 38s

            Comment


            • #7
              Did you actually re-time the distributor?

              I'm almost willing to bet it sheared the shitty roll pin, and turned the gear on teh shaft. If that happens, it's obviously out of time.

              Comment


              • #8
                You mean re-stab it? Of course. Pointed right towards #1 when the balancer is on 0.

                I tried like hell this morning and I cannot get the gear to turn without the shaft. I think the pin in fine.

                Does anyone have a EFI 351 dizzy I can use for a sec? I need the kind with a remote TFI.
                -Dustin
                '94 Cobra
                Coast High 408, AFR 205s,
                1-3/4" BBK LTs, Tremec TKO,
                ZA0 Tweecer Self Tune

                09 F250 KR
                10" lift, 38s

                Comment


                • #9
                  The gear is a press fit, even without the pin you aren't going to be able to spin it on the shaft. While it may appear that the rotor in the distributor line up with #1 while the balancer is at TDC on #1, in my experience, when the engine is running that can still be +/- quite a bit of actual spark timing.
                  Originally posted by racrguy
                  What's your beef with NPR, because their listeners are typically more informed than others?
                  Originally posted by racrguy
                  Voting is a constitutional right, overthrowing the government isn't.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    OK. Thanks Johnny.

                    Brooks said the pin in hollow. I'll try to stick a piece if copper thru it when i get home to check it.
                    -Dustin
                    '94 Cobra
                    Coast High 408, AFR 205s,
                    1-3/4" BBK LTs, Tremec TKO,
                    ZA0 Tweecer Self Tune

                    09 F250 KR
                    10" lift, 38s

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by SVTCobra50 View Post
                      You mean re-stab it? Of course. Pointed right towards #1 when the balancer is on 0.

                      I tried like hell this morning and I cannot get the gear to turn without the shaft. I think the pin in fine.

                      Does anyone have a EFI 351 dizzy I can use for a sec? I need the kind with a remote TFI.
                      I may have a remote one left
                      Ring and pinion specialist

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by greenbullitt View Post
                        I may have a remote one left
                        To borrow?
                        -Dustin
                        '94 Cobra
                        Coast High 408, AFR 205s,
                        1-3/4" BBK LTs, Tremec TKO,
                        ZA0 Tweecer Self Tune

                        09 F250 KR
                        10" lift, 38s

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by SVTCobra50 View Post
                          OK. Thanks Johnny.

                          Brooks said the pin in hollow. I'll try to stick a piece if copper thru it when i get home to check it.
                          Get a punch and try to push the pin out. It is just a roll pin and really doesn't take much to remove. It should come out fairly easily. If you can get the pin out, then you know the gear hasn't moved on the shaft.

                          My problem with all this is that even if the gear has moved, once you remove the distributor and restab it then within reason the car should start. You may have to move the distributor around to get it to light off but it should do it.
                          Originally posted by racrguy
                          What's your beef with NPR, because their listeners are typically more informed than others?
                          Originally posted by racrguy
                          Voting is a constitutional right, overthrowing the government isn't.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            For those interested, it was the dizzy. I guess the thud that was the oil pump drive breaking focked up the magnetic pickup.

                            Got a motorcraft reman in there and it fired right off.

                            Now, to replace the oil pump (and the rear main seal that i've been needing to replace for a while).
                            -Dustin
                            '94 Cobra
                            Coast High 408, AFR 205s,
                            1-3/4" BBK LTs, Tremec TKO,
                            ZA0 Tweecer Self Tune

                            09 F250 KR
                            10" lift, 38s

                            Comment

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