punching hole in oil pan for vortech oil return...

[BlueCoupeRedVert]

Who's done it? I could use some help.
Thanks

[Steve]

Who's done it? I could use some help.
Thanks

It's not hard, just have to be careful when doing it.

[BlueCoupeRedVert]

It's not hard, just have to be careful when doing it.

Your right, I just don't have the punches or the tap.

[Steve]

Your right, I just don't have the punches or the tap.

I'll look in my toolbox to see if I still have mine. If I do, I'll bring it out to the Thursday meet and give it to ya.

[mystic96]

Did it to my '96 Cobra. Not much to it. Bought the tap and punch at the hardware store, measured it out, marked it, and started hammering.

Go slow to make sure you aren't hammering the punch into the front main bearing. I used multiple punches of differing sizes to work my way up to the right size. I think it's a 3/8" tap you need.

Use some heavy grease on the tap to catch the metal shavings that will come off, and change your oil before you fire up the motor again.

I think Vortech used to make a punch especially for this. Might be able to come across one online somewhere.

[BlueCoupeRedVert]

I'll look in my toolbox to see if I still have mine. If I do, I'll bring it out to the Thursday meet and give it to ya.

cool

[dville_gt]

I have a tool that was milled by someone local back in the day that is designed for just this job but I am in Ft. Worth.

[Doug Hatton]

<-- dropped the pan and had the AN fitting welded to mine....

[FastFox]

Vortec Drain hole

Go ahead and pull the pan, change the gasket, clean the pump screen, and weld in the threaded bung. You will be a lot happier . You won't get trash in the pan and you will not worry about the fitting falling out of a very thin piece of sheet metal. It will take longer, but you will feel better about the deal.

[CRASH]

<-- dropped the pan and had the AN fitting welded to mine....

Go ahead and pull the pan, change the gasket, clean the pump screen, and weld in the threaded bung. You will be a lot happier . You won't get trash in the pan and you will not worry about the fitting falling out of a very thin piece of sheet metal. It will take longer, but you will feel better about the deal.

That's what I told him we should do. I think he would rather not pull the pan though.

I've got access to a portable TIG welder that I'm going to take over there when we build the stainless discharge pipe for the new head unit, and it would be a perfect time to weld a bung in then. I guess we'll see what we can do.

-Aaron

[dumpycapri85]

You could grease the bit and drill the hole , then weld the bung over the hole . I had mine off when I welded it but it would have worked without taking it off . BTW I have a the tap you could borrow but I am in FT Worth if you want to go that way .

[BlueCoupeRedVert]

if steve has his, i will try that. if not, we will see how handy Aaron is with that tig. was hoping to have it 100% ready for the cruize, but i really dought it will happen.

[71chevellejohn]

I used the Vortech instructions(for positioning) to punch/tap the hole in mine for the turbo.

I took the fitting and slid it onto the punch I was using and then put some masking tape there to use as a guide/stop. I measured the pan. Drew an X on it and then started hammering away.

The problem I ran into was the punch was so long it interfered with the swing of the 0hammer. Since it was cheap and I figured it was a one-time thing I cut the tip off and kept going. When running the tap in, fill the voids of the tap with grease and it will catch most of the shavings. I hooked up the drain hose and used some junk oil to rinse the pan. Then changed the oil before starting.

[Dacotua]

If you dont want to pull the oil pan, just remove the timing chain cover. Drill/tap the bottom and side of the cover.

[BlueCoupeRedVert]

Got'er done!