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Oil on the back of the block?

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  • Oil on the back of the block?

    Ok so my oil pan drips oil from under the timing cover, and I've always had a large amount of oil between the block plate and block, on the starter and on the outside of the bell housing.

    I at first thought it was the rear main, so I replaced it. The problem then continued and I take it all apart today to find that the rear main is in perfect shape and is dry, while there is oil everywhere. The block plate shows signs of oil drips from streaks. So there is a mass amount of oil being lost and I can't see anything.

    Where should I look?

    It was dark outside so hopefully I'll catch something tomorrow.

    320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'

    DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq

  • #2
    I'm not for sure if this is normal or not, but I think it is.

    One of my flywheel bolts had oil on it and some came out when I took the bolt out, my other motor I had did the same thing, but never knew if it was normal or not.

    320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'

    DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq

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    • #3
      Check your lower intake to block seal. Most fly by night engine builders are probably still using the cork or rubber gaskets at this location and they are known to push in or out with pressure. Sometimes they don't even make it through the break-in process. If someone reputable built the engine they most likely used a large bead of silicone, but there is still room for human error.





      sent from htc EVO, the iCrap killer.
      --carlos

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      • #4
        Originally posted by projectPONY View Post
        Check your lower intake to block seal. Most fly by night engine builders are probably still using the cork or rubber gaskets at this location and they are known to push in or out with pressure. Sometimes they don't even make it through the break-in process. If someone reputable built the engine they most likely used a large bead of silicone, but there is still room for human error.





        sent from htc EVO, the iCrap killer.
        This
        Half of history is hiding the past.

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        • #5
          The bolt holes on the crank go all the way through.. If no thread sealer is used you will get leaks there. It can also leak between the main cap and block.. For some reason my A4 block likes to leak there even with a dab of sealer in the corners of the cap

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          • #6
            H.O. cranks have holes all the way through for the flywheel bolts which exposes the bolts to the crankcase. just put some thread sealer on the flywheel bolts and your problem will be solved

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            • #7
              Originally posted by 5.8foureye View Post
              H.O. cranks have holes all the way through for the flywheel bolts which exposes the bolts to the crankcase. just put some thread sealer on the flywheel bolts and your problem will be solved
              That would cause a big leak under pressure?

              Because when I did my clutch I didn't use sealer.

              320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'

              DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq

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              • #8
                Originally posted by 91CoupeMike View Post
                That would cause a big leak under pressure?

                Because when I did my clutch I didn't use sealer.
                The clutch pressure plate bolt holes don't go through the crank flange though, only the flywheel. That's the difference.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by The King View Post
                  The clutch pressure plate bolt holes don't go through the crank flange though, only the flywheel. That's the difference.
                  I had the flywheel resurfaced lol

                  320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'

                  DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq

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                  • #10
                    It sounds dumb but what about the valve cover gaskets . They are prone to loosen and leak .
                    Big Rooster Racing

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by dumpycapri85 View Post
                      It sounds dumb but what about the valve cover gaskets . They are prone to loosen and leak .
                      yes check your valve covers i thought my rear main was leaking turned out it was the valve cover!

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by 91CoupeMike View Post
                        I had the flywheel resurfaced lol
                        Ahh, I understand what you were saying now. My bad.....

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by 80coupe View Post
                          yes check your valve covers i thought my rear main was leaking turned out it was the valve cover!
                          Heads are clean, but I'll take a closer look to be sure

                          320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'

                          DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq

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                          • #14
                            Front and rear intake to block gaskets

                            I have used the cork gaskets forever and with no leaks. Take a sharp center punch an punch a row of tiny holes on the gasket surface and the manifold. When you properly torque the manifold down, the cork will "Peak" into the punch holes and not crawl out. It will even work on a rubber gasket, but extra care must be taken to keep the rubber in place. I learned this from an old time mechanic . Amazing what knowledge those old timers had.

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                            • #15
                              cork and rubber gaskets are NOT worth the trouble IMO. it's pretty much hit or miss with them. if you have a good method that works with them then great. but I'm sure that for every one person that has success 5 or 6 others don't.

                              I also dimple the lower intake at the rear and at the front but I run a thick bead of silicone and have never had an issue.
                              --carlos

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