Paint/Body guys in here

[Baba Ganoush]

I'm waiting on my other project to be professionally painted so I decided to paint my DD coupe. So I'm attempting my first paint job from scratch. I tell you, it might be the LAST paint job I ever do. This is a lot of work. I had some quick questions for the paint guys.

I have stripped it bare, and finished 98% of my filler work, and I'm almost ready to shoot my 2k primer. What grit should I use on the metal for final sanding before primer? 180? 220? finer?

I plan to block out my 2k with 320, 400 wet, then 600 wet, right before sealer. I'm shooting a white bc/cc. Savy?

I know paint/body guys have a method that works for them, and they will usually all differ in exact steps or procedures. Any tips or advise you guys have is greatly appreciated.


my payment

[Rick Modena]

180 before the 2k primer and then 500 before tha paint...

[Rick Modena]

Also, if you have alot of bare metal then its a good idea to metal treat the metal before primer, especially with all the humidity in tha air the last few weeks. It may not look like it, but rust starts forming as soon as it goes bare. I always use a red or green scotchbrite pad to knock off the light surface rust before I metal treat. You can buy Metal Treat at any automotive paint store, follow the instuctions.

IF YOU DON'T DO THIS THE PRIMER WILL NOT ADHERE TO THE BARE METAL!

[Baba Ganoush]

Also, if you have alot of bare metal then its a good idea to metal treat the metal before primer, especially with all the humidity in tha air the last few weeks. It may not look like it, but rust starts forming as soon as it goes bare. I always use a red or green scotchbrite pad to knock off the light surface rust before I metal treat. You can buy Metal Treat at any automotive paint store, follow the instuctions.

IF YOU DON'T DO THIS THE PRIMER WILL NOT ADHERE TO THE BARE METAL!

Yeah it has started to rust a little, as I am dragging my ass on this. I will go over the whole thing by hand with 180, then wipe it with my metal prep (I have some from english color)

So block out with 500? would you start coarser and work your way to 500? I planned on 320 or 400 for first block session, then 600 for final before sealer.

Here is how it sits today:

[Rick Modena]

Not really, as long as the body work is straight. If your in no hurry, let it set a few days. Then straight 500, then BC/CC...

[Baba Ganoush]

Cool, yeah no hurry here. I'm getting on it this week while the weather is nice though.

[Rick Modena]

Yeah, on second thought (after the picture), you better shoot 3 to 4 coats of primer, then block it with 180, fill any low spots with glazeputty (2k), then another two coats of primer, then 500 sand it before /sealer/paint, goddamned DIY's!

[ELVIS]

somebody paint my vert for cheap!!!!!!!!!

god bless.

[Baba Ganoush]

Yeah I know, it's really just a way to learn, honestly. Probably the hard way, but I'll get it right, and I'll save a bundle. I've spent $400 bucks for all materials except base and clear (already had numerous tools needed) and I didn't feel like paying for knowledge I should have already attained at my age.

On a side note I bought a dent puller kit from Harbor Freight and put it to work. Basically a chinease stud welder and slide hammer. $100 and I pulled over $1000 worth of dents, lol. It worked, but I had to notch my studs to get the CHINA slide hammer to work.

[dblack1]

I use sherwin etching primer on bare, followed by however many coats of build primer.

I do the same of 400-600. I'm not really sure why you went on the way to metal though.

Try to get the primer pretty slick. It cuts down on sand time. What gun you using. I've done decent work with a cheap gun I purchased from nothern, but I do also have a HVLP sata.

[Baba Ganoush]

I took it all the way down because it had several shitty paint jobs and gobbs of bondo in places. I've got a nice hvlp gun for prime and base, I may look into another gun for my clear.