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Aluminum flywheel for a daily driver?

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  • Aluminum flywheel for a daily driver?

    Hi all. I've been reading up on some stuff that I can do when its time to replace my clutch. Gonna do a real main seal that's for sure. But what about the flywheel? I've been browsing around and looking at discussions on other forums, and there seems to be some hate for an aluminum flywheel on a daily driver. What's your experience with this? Is it something to be avoided? Or does it even matter?

  • #2
    I've heard that they're not good for street because you have to rev higher to get it to roll from a stop.


    sent from my htc EVO 4G, the iCrap killer.
    --carlos

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    • #3
      Yeah see I heard something about the RPM's not acting right, and the motor revs down too fast. So fast that you can't actually shift in time or something.

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      • #4
        hahaha im sure you can shift just fine with one
        Big Rooster Racing
        1985 Mustang GT

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        • #5
          They work fine in a daily driver, you might need 300 more rpm to get it to not stall, but once you're moving, it winds up faster. The only real downside is in a drag car because you don't have the enertia out of the hole, but just raise your launch rpm to overcome that.

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          • #6
            I ordered A chromoly flywheel (see sig) from some place online. It shaves about 9lbs over stock. It works pretty wheel, plus the ring gear is milled into the flywheel itself, rather than being a seperate piece.
            98 GT Vert. Mods include: 17" Chrome Bullitt wheels, 13" Dual Piston PBR swap, Steeda Tri-ax, 17lb Chromoly Flywheel, IAC restrictor...

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            • #7
              I've got one in my car and I hate it... next time I change the clutch, I'm going to change the flywheel too.

              It may work a little better with a steeper rear gear... >3.73s, but with the 3.0s I have, it's just too "boggy" feeling from a dead stop, works fine once you're rolling.

              mardyn

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              • #8
                Originally posted by sabotahj View Post
                I ordered A chromoly flywheel (see sig) from some place online. It shaves about 9lbs over stock. It works pretty wheel, plus the ring gear is milled into the flywheel itself, rather than being a seperate piece.
                This sounds appealing. Shaving 9lbs but still having enough inertia. Do you have a link to the exact one that you ordered?

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                • #9
                  I've never pasted an ebay link before, so I don't know if this is going to show up for you, but here:
                  http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT

                  just make sure you get the right bolt pattern for yours. the options are 8 and 6 bolt. not that you didn't know that, just being informative.
                  98 GT Vert. Mods include: 17" Chrome Bullitt wheels, 13" Dual Piston PBR swap, Steeda Tri-ax, 17lb Chromoly Flywheel, IAC restrictor...

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                  • #10
                    Heavier flywheel gives you a little better low end and a little better suited for daily drivers. For performance, the lighter weight flywheel is a plus.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by thesource View Post
                      Heavier flywheel gives you a little better low end and a little better suited for daily drivers. For performance, the lighter weight flywheel is a plus.
                      So is there like a happy medium? One that is a little better than stock cause its lighter, but not too light so it doesn't affect driveability too awful much?

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                      • #12
                        That's about what those chromoly ones are. they can make them light because they forge the steel with chromium and molybdemum, making it stronger with less material. Pretty cool stuff if you ever have time to look at it. In order from lightest to heaviest: Aluminum, Chromoly, Cast iron (stock).
                        98 GT Vert. Mods include: 17" Chrome Bullitt wheels, 13" Dual Piston PBR swap, Steeda Tri-ax, 17lb Chromoly Flywheel, IAC restrictor...

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                        • #13
                          Billet steel should be in the mix as well... that's what my next one will be for my car.

                          mardyn

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by StanleyTweedle View Post
                            So is there like a happy medium? One that is a little better than stock cause its lighter, but not too light so it doesn't affect driveability too awful much?
                            The billet steel one usually feels in the gap. A slightly lighter steel flywheel and pressure plate gives pretty good results.

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                            • #15
                              I've got an aluminum fidanza in the cobra.... Feels normal to me.
                              Detailing is an Obsession!!

                              1996 MYSTIC Cobra #405 of 2000

                              Fox Coupe "Calypso Killer"

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