Brake Pads- Wagner ceramics any good?

[scott442]

Sorry to hijack but what would be a good pad for a 2001 GMC extended cab 2wd 1/2 ton? After over 10 years and 180,000 miles one of the rear pads is starting to hit the indicator. Of course I would prefer another set of 180K mile pads if they exist.

[2000 vert]

I have the wagners on my car. Work well and almost no dust.

[TruestreetTim]

If you haven't already picked some pads up, I'll toss in my vote for EBC. I've used the 6000 series throughout the life of my 5.9 ZJ. I liked them so much I tried the 2000 series on the lady's Pacifica http://www.ebcbrakes.com/automotive/...ads_2000.shtml

Nothing but good things to report and are a few weeks away from their 2nd year on the car. I'd recommend the "Green Stuff" 2000 series if your type of driving in the car is typical urban/highway driving.

I put the highest dollar Wagners on my 02. It took noticeably longer for the pads to start grabbing. Might be part of the reason I ended up wrecking the car in an emergency braking situation.

..on that note; should you choose the EBC's, be aware there IS a "bedding" process for the first 200 miles of urban (not highway) mileage before applying heavy load. It's marked on the pad in red. With some digging I'm sure I can find the exact link to their recommended process if you'd like to know more.

[Magnimike1]

I put a set of Duralast Gold on my dad's Ranger and I felt they were worse than the cheaper Duralast sets.

I'd rather dive into a swimming pool filled with double edged razor blades, than use Duralast anything.

Did you turn or use new rotors?
Some of the different manufacturers, new pads are scorched to make a smooth and quiet ride at the beginning, but will wear quickly and subsequently cause a rough stop condition.

Duralast gaskets=Felpro

Duralast Domestic Rotating Electrical=Remy

Duralast Engine Mgmt=Wells/Standard Motor=Oem Supplier( You can see where the Toyota, Ford, Mazda symbols/part#'s are ground off)

Duralast Thermostats=Modine,Stant, Motorad

Just a few examples. Kind of dumb statement wouldn't you think? There is no such thing as a "Duralast" factory...The parts are just private branded just like a Ford Motorsport clutch which is made by Valeo. Just like our clutches are made by Valeo and LUK

[Vertnut]

Did you turn or use new rotors?
Some of the different manufacturers, new pads are scorched to make a smooth and quiet ride at the beginning, but will wear quickly and subsequently cause a rough stop condition.

Duralast gaskets=Felpro

Duralast Domestic Rotating Electrical=Remy

Duralast Engine Mgmt=Wells/Standard Motor=Oem Supplier( You can see where the Toyota, Ford, Mazda symbols/part#'s are ground off)

Duralast Thermostats=Modine,Stant, Motorad

Just a few examples. Kind of dumb statement wouldn't you think? There is no such thing as a "Duralast" factory...The parts are just private branded just like a Ford Motorsport clutch which is made by Valeo. Just like our clutches are made by Valeo and LUK

This is so true. Sure, there are some parts I wouldn't buy at AZ, but a lot of them are excellent parts made by great companies under contract. IMHO, they still have the best batteries for the money, and a helluva warranty. I have had their brake pads (Gold) on 3 of my cars for years, and due to their "lifetime warranty", I've replaced them several times for free.

[turbos66coupe]

Hell duralast batteries are made by johnson controls. Same company that makes optima, interstate, walmart etc...

[turbos66coupe]

If you haven't already picked some pads up, I'll toss in my vote for EBC. I've used the 6000 series throughout the life of my 5.9 ZJ. I liked them so much I tried the 2000 series on the lady's Pacifica http://www.ebcbrakes.com/automotive/...ads_2000.shtml

Nothing but good things to report and are a few weeks away from their 2nd year on the car. I'd recommend the "Green Stuff" 2000 series if your type of driving in the car is typical urban/highway driving.



..on that note; should you choose the EBC's, be aware there IS a "bedding" process for the first 200 miles of urban (not highway) mileage before applying heavy load. It's marked on the pad in red. With some digging I'm sure I can find the exact link to their recommended process if you'd like to know more.

All pads have a bedding process but nobody does it just like most don't machine rotors, lube slide pins, replace hardwear, or clean rotor and caliper mating surfaces.

[Magnimike1]

Hell duralast batteries are made by johnson controls. Same company that makes optima, interstate, walmart etc...

Very true. Ours just have a patented lead grid in them. So does the Interstate. The Walmart batteries have a cheaper cast grid in them. We also have a new sealed AGM battery for about 40% cheaper than the Optima. The Duralast Platinum.

[TruestreetTim]

All pads have a bedding process but nobody does it just like most don't machine rotors, lube slide pins, replace hardwear, or clean rotor and caliper mating surfaces.

Absolutely!

I didnt mean to come across like EBC was unique in bedding. But I did want to back up my recommendation by pointing out EBC has their own manufacturers specific break in.

[barronj]

What do I lube the slide pins with?

[90MarkVII]

What do I lube the slide pins with?

Stop by a NAPA and pick up a tube of Sil-Glide (or Syl-Glyde). Blue tube, synthetic grease good for something like -150 degrees to 600 degrees.
Clean the slide pins, maybe even smooth them out with some croakus cloth (2000 grit sandpaper will do) then lube the pin....sparingly.

[90MarkVII]

There are a few things that need clarifying.

1) Although all of us have eyeballed a rotor and slapped a pair of pads on w/o turning it, that's the wrong thing to do. Pads and rotors DO swap material, and you DO need a fresh surface for the pad to bed into.
I know, someone's going to jump up and say "I never turn rotors and I've never had any problems". Good for you. I've done it as well and gotten away with it.

2) Pads have different applications and heat ranges. Pads for daily trucksters work great for daily drivers, but you put them on a track car and they're going to fall apart...literally fall apart.
Along the same lines, you cannot put higher performance pads on your daily. Many times these pads will not bite until they reach a certain temperature....a temp you will NOT reach with sedate neighborhood/Loop 820 driving.

3) The higher up the performance chain you go, the more the pads are going to chew up rotors. It's one of those tradeoffs.

4) You truly need to bed pads/rotors.

Ignoring all of the above leads to brakes that don't stop when you need and wear out fast.

[Tyrone Biggums]

Every tool box needs a tube of Sil-Glyde in it.

[TruestreetTim]

1) Although all of us have eyeballed a rotor and slapped a pair of pads on w/o turning it, that's the wrong thing to do. Pads and rotors DO swap material, and you DO need a fresh surface for the pad to bed into.
I know, someone's going to jump up and say "I never turn rotors and I've never had any problems". Good for you. I've done it as well and gotten away with it.

2) Pads have different applications and heat ranges. Pads for daily trucksters work great for daily drivers, but you put them on a track car and they're going to fall apart...literally fall apart.
Along the same lines, you cannot put higher performance pads on your daily. Many times these pads will not bite until they reach a certain temperature....a temp you will NOT reach with sedate neighborhood/Loop 820 driving.

3) The higher up the performance chain you go, the more the pads are going to chew up rotors. It's one of those tradeoffs.

4) You truly need to bed pads/rotors.

Ignoring all of the above leads to brakes that don't stop when you need and wear out fast.

[90MarkVII]

Every tool box needs a tube of Sil-Glyde in it.

I installed ES poly bushings in the rear of my Mark VII about 6 years ago using Sil-Glyde.
Still no squeaks. And it's seen a lot of miles in all weather since then.