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Sprint car build thread.

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  • #31
    Originally posted by fitzwell View Post
    "splain the differences?? other than longer driver box.
    The cockpits aren't much bigger at all, the difference is in the wheelbase and the fuel cell.

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    • #32
      Originally posted by YALE View Post
      We could put lights and signals on an old formula ford.
      not quite the same. I'm thinking a winged car like Doug Wolfgang used to run.. With lights. Don't really see a need for a horn

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      • #33
        So I guess that is not Yale in the other photo. my bad.

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        • #34
          Originally posted by rainman64 View Post
          So I guess that is not Yale in the other photo. my bad.
          White shirt guy is me. Lol

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          • #35
            The first thing you want to do after setting the rear into the car is slide the drive shaft inside the torque tube, then slide the torque tube inside the torque ball. What you see in this picture is what broke Tony Stewart's leg.



            After that, slide the end of the drive shaft into the rear gear and put your snap ring in place (this is a pain in the dick to do quickly and at the track)



            Next, bolt up your torque tube.



            Once you've got your torque tube bolted up, you can start putting together the rear suspension. Some of you guys may be familiar with a torque arm setup or a 4 bar rear suspension, but this is called a Z link, because it looks like a Z, duh. It also has torsion bars to act as springs. On the rear, you block it at 4" for some rear rake



            In this picture is a RR brake. I can change what the car does when I get on the brakes depending on if I have a LR or RR brake even though there's an 11 rotor and a solid rear axle. If I want the car to turn more when I get on the brakes, I'll put it on the LR, if I want the car to straighten out while on the brakes, use the RR. Protip: When squaring up your axle and assembling the car, use extra spacers to hold the birdcage up against the shoulder on the axle.



            Now it's time to assemble the steering so you can set the car on the ground. Here the steering gear is just set into the car.



            Here you can see the drag link and pitman arm hooked up.



            And now, the tires. From left to right is the LF, RF, LR and RR. That's the tallest LR I've got, and it gives me about 12 inches of stagger.



            Remember kids, if your race car parts are growing cob webs, you're doing it wrong. I am doing it wrong.

            Last edited by racrguy; 08-28-2013, 06:30 PM.

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            • #36
              Now that you've got your steering put together, it's time to put the tires on and set the car down!

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              • #37
                Originally posted by racrguy View Post

                And now, the tires. From right to left is the LF, RF, LR and RR. That's the tallest LR I've got, and it gives me about 12 inches of stagger.
                I think you've got that backwards. Either that, or you're running one crazy ass setup!

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                • #38
                  Fuck me! That's what I get for writing this shit between customers. I even checked it to make sure I said that right.

                  Signs of early stupidity, I guess.

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by rainman64 View Post
                    I will do that, I have been meaning to post something about who drives that green four eyed in town. I have a 79 coupe race car, aka "the turd". I live just a block from you guy's and I thought that was Yale also.
                    Pics of said 79. I've never seen it in town.
                    Originally posted by soap
                    i can fix anything from a broken tractor to an aching pussy!!!

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                    • #40
                      Cool thread.

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                      • #41
                        Gonna be kinda hard to put the dash on with drag link/pitman arm on, jk. Shoulda bought a race ready Wolfweld, then you wouldn't have to put this one together.

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by WesB View Post
                          Gonna be kinda hard to put the dash on with drag link/pitman arm on, jk. Shoulda bought a race ready Wolfweld, then you wouldn't have to put this one together.
                          Are they <$800? One of his frames was, and no matter who puts it together, it'll come apart often. No need to step over a dollar to pick up a dime.
                          ZOMBIE REAGAN FOR PRESIDENT 2016!!! heh

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                          • #43
                            Originally posted by YALE View Post
                            Are they <$800? One of his frames was, and no matter who puts it together, it'll come apart often. No need to step over a dollar to pick up a dime.
                            You're talking about the XXX, but it doesn't have shit, no motorplate, no body, nothing.

                            I had this car already, been upside down in it once and all is well. This car had by far the roomiest cage of any car I've been in.

                            Edit: Technically I could've put it together, but I'd have to buy a new body and different radius rods. eh/meh.

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                            • #44
                              Originally posted by YALE View Post
                              Are they <$800? One of his frames was, and no matter who puts it together, it'll come apart often. No need to step over a dollar to pick up a dime.
                              He knows what I was talking about, and trust me I understand the maintenance on them as I have been a mechanic on one for the last two years.

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                              • #45
                                Subscribed. Who built the chassis? What will this weight when turn-key?

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