So it begins, Project CMC Mustang

[aggie97]

I am planning on running the offset delrin bushings

offset in what manner? You aren't allowed to lengthen wheel base unless the rules changed for the foxes.

If you are making it to hallett in a couple weeks, you need to find the driver of CMC #11 and ask lots of questions about suspension. He can point you in the right direction so you are buying parts only once.

Also, pay special attention to the cage rules for CMC. While they can be specific, they are also rather vague with what is considered "additional chassis stiffening" which is NOT allowed, but can be gained with smart and legal cage designs based primarily on where you put the floor plates and how you tie them into the body....without getting dinged for illegal stuff.

1.75" x .095" DOM and 1.75" x .120" DOM is going for anywhere between $3.75 to $5.50 a LF depending on where you buy it in the chain of sales. I get mine from a local wholesaler for around $3.75 but I know some people pay far more just to get it as most suppliers hate ordering it in small quantities.

Getting that fox to minimum weight should not be a problem, but I would build the cage out of .095". Save the weight and put it where you need it to balance the car.

Cool to see another build starting. PM me if you have any questions. If I can't answer it I can certainly point you in the right direction.

[Mach1]

What do they typically run with the rear suspension setup?

Maximum Motorsports LCA's and PHB, some run a Poor mans 3 link (gut the bushings on one of the UCA's, spherical bushing on the other.

[Mach1]

offset in what manner? You aren't allowed to lengthen wheel base unless the rules changed for the foxes.

If you are making it to hallett in a couple weeks, you need to find the driver of CMC #11 and ask lots of questions about suspension. He can point you in the right direction so you are buying parts only once.

Also, pay special attention to the cage rules for CMC. While they can be specific, they are also rather vague with what is considered "additional chassis stiffening" which is NOT allowed, but can be gained with smart and legal cage designs based primarily on where you put the floor plates and how you tie them into the body....without getting dinged for illegal stuff.

1.75" x .095" DOM and 1.75" x .120" DOM is going for anywhere between $3.75 to $5.50 a LF depending on where you buy it in the chain of sales. I get mine from a local wholesaler for around $3.75 but I know some people pay far more just to get it as most suppliers hate ordering it in small quantities.

Getting that fox to minimum weight should not be a problem, but I would build the cage out of .095". Save the weight and put it where you need it to balance the car.

Cool to see another build starting. PM me if you have any questions. If I can't answer it I can certainly point you in the right direction.

#11 is running these exact bushings, I believe it falls under the "unrestricted bushings".

I think you have to run .120 since it's over 3000 lbs (see page 46 of CCR).

[aggie97]

Weights are dry no fluids and no driver....your car will be below 3000 for sure

[aggie97]

BTW...unrestricted bushings only relates to material ie delrin, aluminum, air or hiem. a static change in suspension geometry has always been illegal unless there is something specific in the rules that says you can use a specific part on a specific chassis. I haven't read the CMC rules for a couple seasons now and they may have made a concession to keep the foxes competitive by allowing them to extend the wheelbase with offset bushings....however, it will have to say that specifically in the rules.

I suggest reading the rules many times over and changing your mentality from what can I do in the gray areas, to I can do only what it says in the rules. Will save a lot of headaches. Just trying to help you not have legality issues down the road once you begin to get competitive. I sort of wish I had read the CMC rules long before I started building my car as it was too far gone before I even put a cage in it and I had to run AI.

[Z06killinsbf]

If you get Cobra brakes, I have a set of brand new Hawk (front) pads I need to get rid of (no gimme though...)

[Mach1]

Weights are dry no fluids and no driver....your car will be below 3000 for sure

Sure enough, I should have looked at page 45 lol. Seems kind of bass-ackword to me to do the rules like that.

15.6.18 Roll Cage Tubing Sizes
For the purposes of determining roll bar tubing sizes, vehicle weight is as raced, but without fuel and driver.
Note: There is an allowance of minus 0.010 inches on all tubing thicknesses.

Not really as raced then is it? Anyways, rules are rules, thanks for that clarification!

If you get Cobra brakes, I have a set of brand new Hawk (front) pads I need to get rid of (no gimme though...)

What compound? I am needing DTC-60 or 70.

[Z06killinsbf]

I'll have to check when I get home.

[aggie97]

Sure enough, I should have looked at page 45 lol. Seems kind of bass-ackword to me to do the rules like that.

It sounds weird, but race cars change hands often. Drivers weigh different. The constant is the dry weight that way if a 300lb driver buys a car built by a 130lb bag of bones, the cage is still good to go.

One recommendation I would make on pads for a non ABS car....and a lot of what the guys in CMC are running are PFC 01's in the front and 97's in the rear. You could put an 06 in the front which has a little less initial bite but you don't want a too aggressive pad without ABS. PFC's are easy on rotors too...

At nationals in 09, the Hawk rep was going around asking every AI driver what pad they were running. Anyone not running Hawks got a 1 to 3 minute sales pitch on why they should be running hawks. He asked me and I told him PFC's and he kept on walking. No lecture. Tells me I use the right brake pad!

However, if you can get pads at less than retail while learning the car....do it!!!

[Z06killinsbf]

Hawk HB111F .610 is what's printed on the box I have.

[Mach1]

Hawk HB111F .610 is what's printed on the box I have.

Thanks for checking, unfortunately that looks like a street pad so I'm outta luck!

[Mach1]

Big thanks to Michael Mosty, CMC #11, for all of the input and help with this project, he let me crawl all around his car at Hallett and snap photos for reference to my build.

[Blue88Coupe]

is it done yet?

[Mach1]

is it done yet?

Lol, almost done getting the shit pulled off of it

[91GriggsGT]

One recommendation I would make on pads for a non ABS car....and a lot of what the guys in CMC are running are PFC 01's in the front and 97's in the rear. You could put an 06 in the front which has a little less initial bite but you don't want a too aggressive pad without ABS. PFC's are easy on rotors too...


However, if you can get pads at less than retail while learning the car....do it!!!

What he said.

My first set of pads when I finished my car were Hawk Blues on the front and blacks on the rear. They were "ok", but when I went to the 01s and 97s for pads...holy shit. What a difference.

Needless to say, I have not run anything other than Performance Friction since. They are pricey, but well worth it in my opinion.

Also, as far as cobra brake stuff, CYAZ06 may have some of the parts you are looking for before too long..... Just an FYI