What I have been working on

[CJ]

Ah, I didn't notice that. I bet those 315's look bad ass on there. Why don't you just buy a few yards of flat black vinyl and wrap the rear of your tank? Super cheap and easy, protects that pretty aluminum, and you don't have to scuff it or ruin it.

[KBScobravert]

Ah, I didn't notice that. I bet those 315's look bad ass on there. Why don't you just buy a few yards of flat black vinyl and wrap the rear of your tank? Super cheap and easy, protects that pretty aluminum, and you don't have to scuff it or ruin it.

That is more than likely what I will do.

[CJ]

That is more than likely what I will do.

If you want some help with it let me know, I've laid a whole lot of vinyl.

[greenbullitt]

i have a dash harness off a 98 if that section is the same keith

[KBScobravert]

i have a dash harness off a 98 if that section is the same keith

Thanks Paul. If I don't cobble this one back I will call you. It should be the same.

[KBScobravert]

Turn signal harness fixed.

The short is somewhere further in the dash for the alternator though. My number 18 fuse under the dash still reads 1.8v with key out. Tested again by unplugging the ignition switch......same results.


Battery light stays on on the dash even by unplugging alternator plugs, and pulling the key and ignition switch. As long as the fuse is getting 1.8v so is the panel.
Looks like the dash has to come out to check the wires going into the fuse panel from the firewall and also the harness from the main underhood fuse box and the firewall.

I have a spare fuse box incase there is an internal short in it. Possible.

In other news. Battery is sitting on 18.+V.....not cool. I am pulling it tomorrow to have tested and replaced under warranty if need be. Fairly new Optima Red.

Alternator still hot even after replacing the regulator. Could it be a bad engine ground???????

Ordered a new Powermaster 200amp G3 alternator and some 4ga wire to go ahead and upgrade while I am at it.

I fear the dash has to come out again. Nothing for me but time and energy BUT if it comes out am going to leave it out while I replace all the factory cluster and use a www.Florida50.com Right now my factory tach, oil psi, water temp are just dead gauges and the airbag light stays on cause there are no modules left in the car.

[turbostang]

keith - I didn't read all of the problems, but this is similar to what I just went through.

My alternator wouldn't charge no matter what. Changed alternators, no bueno. ADDED a charge wire, it picked up about .3V to the battery, but still not charging.

Added a ground strap to the engine and finally got the charge wire to read some appreciable amount of voltage, but still not more than 12.3V.

Long story short, my charge wire had a nick in it and was grounding out on the body. Replaced with a #2 welding lead and now it's getting ~14V at idle and 15.1 going down the track.

As for the drain - the guage has to measure somewhere around 550ohms. It has a key on 12V to one side and a ground to the other. Usually the factory uses a resister from the 12V input side of the guage to the grounded side of the guage. If the guage failed, the alternator would still charge. This guage is powered by the green/red wire on the plug of your alternator. (if you didn't know this part)

I have a spare, known good, 3G if you want to test with it.

[KBScobravert]

keith - I didn't read all of the problems, but this is similar to what I just went through.

My alternator wouldn't charge no matter what. Changed alternators, no bueno. ADDED a charge wire, it picked up about .3V to the battery, but still not charging.

Added a ground strap to the engine and finally got the charge wire to read some appreciable amount of voltage, but still not more than 12.3V.

Long story short, my charge wire had a nick in it and was grounding out on the body. Replaced with a #2 welding lead and now it's getting ~14V at idle and 15.1 going down the track.

As for the drain - the guage has to measure somewhere around 550ohms. It has a key on 12V to one side and a ground to the other. Usually the factory uses a resister from the 12V input side of the guage to the grounded side of the guage. If the guage failed, the alternator would still charge. This guage is powered by the green/red wire on the plug of your alternator. (if you didn't know this part)

I have a spare, known good, 3G if you want to test with it.

Thanks Brooks. I will have my 200amp 3g tomorrow. The alternator I have does charge (a little too much). The new one will be grounded to chassis.

The green/red should not have any power until key is on, however, mine does. Uh oh. I think there is a couple wires that have shorted in either the dash harness to fuse panel or in the fenderwell section. My alternator output gauge works and reads fine it is just the damn battery symbol light on that tells me something is not right. Again it shoul never be one without the key in run.

Thanks for the draw ohms to look for. That was my other question.

[turbostang]

Thanks Brooks. I will have my 200amp 3g tomorrow. The alternator I have does charge (a little too much). The new one will be grounded to chassis.

The green/red should not have any power until key is on, however, mine does. Uh oh. I think there is a couple wires that have shorted in either the dash harness to fuse panel or in the fenderwell section. My alternator output gauge works and reads fine it is just the damn battery symbol light on that tells me something is not right. Again it shoul never be one without the key in run.

Thanks for the draw ohms to look for. That was my other question.

Yeah, i was sure there were details that I didn't read - admittedly, didn't read too far back to see. I'm sure you'll figure it out, it's just going to take removing that dash now that you've mentioned it. lol.

[KBScobravert]

Yeah, i was sure there were details that I didn't read - admittedly, didn't read too far back to see. I'm sure you'll figure it out, it's just going to take removing that dash now that you've mentioned it. lol.

I told the wife it was coming back out again. She just shakes her head nowadays. Last resort, last resort.

The damn think is running like I am up against a two step. Fuel PSI is good and plugs look fine. I think the coils are not appreciating the 18v.

Drove perfect up until the battery died.

[KBScobravert]

Short in the alterantor circuit found and fixed. New PowerMaster 200amp and 4ga charge wire installed.

Short in the turn signal indicator found and fixed.

[KBScobravert]

I should have the car back together tomorrow and I hope like hell the ECU is not toast. It is running like crap.....won't go above 1400-1800rpms, or 110kPa, but not going lean. Like there it is misfiring or breaking up on a two step rev limiter. Bucking and surging just trying to pull it out of the driveway.

It started immediately after I charged the battery from being stone cold dead. I thought it was the file in the ECU so I rebooted it up. Same results. Ran perfect for 2 days straight and 700 miles up until I parked it and found the battery dead 12 hours later. (short fixed, not ECU related)

Plugs on the 5-8 side look great, I haven't pulled the 1-4 yet but the wires seem to be fine.

Fuel PSI holds the entire time.

MAP shows to be reading right.

Good Oil PSI and everything else seems intact as well.

Almost feels like there is a rag stuck in the intercooler blocking the air flow. Give it as much throttle as you want and sheet for nothing is what you get.

[KBScobravert]

Almost feels like there is a rag stuck in the intercooler blocking the air flow. Give it as much throttle as you want and sheet for nothing is what you get.

Now that I think about it. I might just pull the charge tube from the throttle body and see if it improves. If it does, I am fighting a restriction in my coldside somewhere. OR, it could be in the exhaust. If both, the turbo is toast. Oh boy, I can't wait to figure this one out. :rofl:

[KBScobravert]

Turbo spins freely.....thank goodness.

[dville_gt]

Turbo spins freely.....thank goodness.

I'd pull the charge pipe regardless just to eliminate that possiblity.

Also, you need to find out what voltage your MAP should read at atmospheric, then tap the signal wire and see what it is doing with the 5volts/ground put to it. I don't know the specifics about that AEM sensor, but if it is a 3 bar sensor it reads 1 bar to atmospheric, and 2 bars above atmospheric. So if it is 0-5 volt linear, it would read ~1.66v at atmospheric pressure (KeyOnEngineOff). I know you said you were seeing some odd numbers from that sensor the other day, if that sensor got fried by your 18v charging it will screw up the entire tune.

Also, does the AEM unit utilize the wideband sensor for "auto-tune" or do you have o2 sensors in cross over pipes for close loop? I know you said the wideband was reading normally, but I'd also try to verify those readings as the high voltage could have caused problems there as well.

Just my 2 cents (according to some on this site, not even worth that!)