Birddog0347 rescues a Fox

[bird_dog0347]

So I wanted to start out with a big thanks to Baron Von Crowder and Greenbullitt for the help and the rebuild on my rear diff!

When I installed the IRS in my coupe I had read online that I'd need to swap the pinion flange from the stick axle to the IRS so my driveshaft would work. Well, everything I read said just unbolt and then bolt up the other flange so that's what I did but in the process I ruined the old seal and it leaked. I also didn't record the torque reading first, then after replacing the seal I didn't get the pinion nut tight enough. Well, about 500 miles later the gear set and pinion bearing were trashed. It got to the point where I couldn't even drive it on the highway as anything over 45-50mph started causing a bad sound/vibration that got far worse with speed and the on/off throttle transition was unbearable.

Being an IRS rear it's a lot more expensive for shops to work on them and do a gear swap cause everything has to come apart to get at the gears. I decided since I didn't want to have to do it more than once, I went ahead and got the kit from LMR with new 3.55 gears, bearings, seals, fluid, etc. and removed the diff in my garage then took it to DJ's shop where Paul and DJ fixed my mess.

While everything was out, I decided I better go ahead and do the control arm bushings as they were the only ones still rubber, but the worst ones to be rubber due to the wheel hop. Since I didn't have the $500+ for the delrin bushings I got the prothane IRS control arm bushings from LMR for like $80 and installed them. I also decided to get them because it's a street car and I have poly in the front control arms and like it, so it's good enough and a pretty easy install. I also installed my MM Strut tower brace that I had sitting on the bench.

I got the diff back from DJ/Paul yesterday and tonight it was all put back together and running/driving. I haven't left the neighborhood yet as I needed to do a few other things like fix my headlight aiming, but it feels TONS better and drives great so far. I can finally use the car again I think.

Few pics:

[bird_dog0347]

You still got those CC plates you were selling? That was you right?

Yes, I still have those and the struts/shocks for sale.

[Z06killinsbf]

You still got those CC plates you were selling? That was you right?

[bird_dog0347]

So I haven't addressed my steering yet, and I'm pretty sure I need my rear gears checked out based on me likely screwing up the pinion flange swap on the IRS, but I got a good deal from Tony (forum insurance sponsor) on his TW 170 heads, scorpion rockers, pushrods, etc. and I'm looking forward to cleaning them all up and doing the install later this summer. I'll still need a cam unless I stick with the stock so I'm not sure if I want OTS or a custom one... I'm so up in the air about it. I'm tired of doing things twice and won't be in a hurry on this, but I also don't have a lot more money to drop in it right now, or for the rest of the year I'm sure. I also picked up a MM strut tower brace that I'm sure I'll install when I do the head swap.

Question: the heads are grooved for a loc-wire head gasket... do I HAVE to use a loc-wire gasket now or is it just an option? If I get a better cam, I'm sure I'll have to replace the valve springs for something better, which is one of the reasons I'm considering just leaving it stock or going with like a TFS-1 cam knowing I'll leave a lot on the table. Thoughts?

[Z06killinsbf]

Have you considered a manual rack? My 95 has a FR manual rack, MM solid shaft and MM bumpsteer and it's very easy to drive. I daily it.

[KBScobravert]

Steering shaft and rebuilt 03 cobra rack. Then cut the pressure spring in the pumps valve.

[bird_dog0347]

So I finally got the car aligned on Friday (in the rain of course after washing both cars), took nearly 3 hours for them to do it all and they got it pretty close to what Jack at MM had suggested to me but some of the adjustments got maxed out before they could reach the suggested settings.

The car is a whole different animal now with the MM kit and an alignment (I never got the rear aligned after installing it as I knew I'd be replacing springs/shocks). When I would hit a bump before the front suspension would barely move and the rear would bounce all over due to the completely wrong spring rates (eibach in front and cut stock IRS in rear). Also any large bump would cause my rear tires to move up enough to contact the fenders and would rub every so slightly. In a turn, if I applied any throttle it was so unpredictable and did not feel planted at all. It was like all the sudden the rear hit a small patch of ice and felt as if it stepped over 8-12 inches then caught traction mid turd.

Well, with the new suspension in there and properly aligned that feeling is gone. The car has a FAR better ride than it had before and now I'm really happy with the decision to go with the IRS in the rear. I've only put a few miles on it so far, and plan to drive it more tomorrow, but it feels balanced now. It just feels SOLID. The suspension isn't overly stiff, and rides way better than the sportlines did, and I don't feel like the NVH really increased at all over what I had before. I think having the poly control arm bushings and what not already had the NVH increased as it were... There doesn't seem to be much body roll either, and the rear end doesn't feel like it's going to bottom out or rub the tires anymore either.

The vastly improved suspension however makes my steering setup more of a glaring problem. The problem is the vague feeling that's so familiar with a Fox chassis. The car simply doesn't respond quickly to steering input, there's a rather large dead zone in the center of the steering, and changing direction quickly right/left/right/left it feels notchy when changing. I've known I need a new pump for a while as it whines a lot, but I've been putting that off till I decide to do a new rack, bump steer, etc. I guess I'll start saving up for those items and need to decide what to go with. I'm thinking of going with the Cortex racing rack ($349), new pump ($90.97 pump/hose/filter), MM BS kit ($149), and MM solid steering shaft ($219.97), MM BS Gauge ($97.95). I've already swapped my steering wheel/column for the non-airbag tilt wheel. The above parts would cost quite a bit though, total of $906.89 and then I'd need to re-align it I'm sure.

[bird_dog0347]

Thanks guys, I tried to get it alinged this afternoon but the guy couldn't get it up on the rack, said it was too low. I've got an appointment Friday at 11am for it now at the place I had it done last time where the rack is recessed into the floor so my car won't be too low to get on it. I did manage to wash it today though.

[Venom]

I'm curious as to the improvement going to coilovers as well. I've got a full MM setup minus the CO's but I've been itching to switch.

[KBScobravert]

Congrats on getting this far. It is definitely driving season!