Originally posted by bird_dog0347
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Yup, idea is to keep fuel from spewing all over in the event of a rollover. From your pic looks like it was bypassed/hard wired. -
I want to, but I'm going to have to do auto x first and put miles on it to shake out any other issues. After that I'll try to do something closer first like Cresson or ECR. The other night I had worked on the car for a bit and put the trunk liner panels back in, the next morning I went to drive my son to school in it and it wouldn't start. The fuel pump wasn't running or priming at all so I pulled the panels out again and found the wire below in the pic was knocked loose. Once I put it back on it runs again but now I have to unfuck this mess and figure out why this is there at all. That pic is just inside the trunk on the back side of the driver's side tail light and the red wire runs through the trunk under the rear seat back towards the front under the carpet.
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So I wanted to start out with a big thanks to Baron Von Crowder and Greenbullitt for the help and the rebuild on my rear diff!
When I installed the IRS in my coupe I had read online that I'd need to swap the pinion flange from the stick axle to the IRS so my driveshaft would work. Well, everything I read said just unbolt and then bolt up the other flange so that's what I did but in the process I ruined the old seal and it leaked. I also didn't record the torque reading first, then after replacing the seal I didn't get the pinion nut tight enough. Well, about 500 miles later the gear set and pinion bearing were trashed. It got to the point where I couldn't even drive it on the highway as anything over 45-50mph started causing a bad sound/vibration that got far worse with speed and the on/off throttle transition was unbearable.
Being an IRS rear it's a lot more expensive for shops to work on them and do a gear swap cause everything has to come apart to get at the gears. I decided since I didn't want to have to do it more than once, I went ahead and got the kit from LMR with new 3.55 gears, bearings, seals, fluid, etc. and removed the diff in my garage then took it to DJ's shop where Paul and DJ fixed my mess.
While everything was out, I decided I better go ahead and do the control arm bushings as they were the only ones still rubber, but the worst ones to be rubber due to the wheel hop. Since I didn't have the $500+ for the delrin bushings I got the prothane IRS control arm bushings from LMR for like $80 and installed them. I also decided to get them because it's a street car and I have poly in the front control arms and like it, so it's good enough and a pretty easy install. I also installed my MM Strut tower brace that I had sitting on the bench.
I got the diff back from DJ/Paul yesterday and tonight it was all put back together and running/driving. I haven't left the neighborhood yet as I needed to do a few other things like fix my headlight aiming, but it feels TONS better and drives great so far. I can finally use the car again I think.
Few pics:
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Yes, I still have those and the struts/shocks for sale.Originally posted by Z06killinsbf View PostLeave a comment:
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You still got those CC plates you were selling? That was you right?Leave a comment:
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So I haven't addressed my steering yet, and I'm pretty sure I need my rear gears checked out based on me likely screwing up the pinion flange swap on the IRS, but I got a good deal from Tony (forum insurance sponsor) on his TW 170 heads, scorpion rockers, pushrods, etc. and I'm looking forward to cleaning them all up and doing the install later this summer. I'll still need a cam unless I stick with the stock so I'm not sure if I want OTS or a custom one... I'm so up in the air about it. I'm tired of doing things twice and won't be in a hurry on this, but I also don't have a lot more money to drop in it right now, or for the rest of the year I'm sure. I also picked up a MM strut tower brace that I'm sure I'll install when I do the head swap.
Question: the heads are grooved for a loc-wire head gasket... do I HAVE to use a loc-wire gasket now or is it just an option? If I get a better cam, I'm sure I'll have to replace the valve springs for something better, which is one of the reasons I'm considering just leaving it stock or going with like a TFS-1 cam knowing I'll leave a lot on the table. Thoughts?
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Have you considered a manual rack? My 95 has a FR manual rack, MM solid shaft and MM bumpsteer and it's very easy to drive. I daily it.Leave a comment:
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