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Forgot to mention that before I put the drivetrain into the car I cracked the transmission apart to upgrade the shift fork pads to the brass version and inspect everything. It's good thing I did because the second gear synchronizer assembly was starting to get ate up and the little teeth were getting sharp. Everyone shits on this gear box and maybe I will too, but from the looks of it on the inside it is all pretty heavy duty. We'll see. It doesn't come apart or go back together like a T5. A lot of it was pressed together really tight and I had to build a few tools to take it apart. It's back together now obviously and it seems to shift fine.
Finally finished few more things and took it on a drive around the block today. That is a 275/40 with 18x10.5 on all four corners. It might rub and I have some cheap plastic flares if needed. The PTFE fuel line is the way to go from now on in my opinion. More $$$, but it is way tougher and it doesn't smell. The only other downside is that it is slightly less flexible and tight bends could be an issue.
I also decided to move the proportioning valve into the car so you could mess around with it while driving. Here's a tip. If you've ever used the cheap flare tools you can buy like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900311/overview/ go ahead and throw that piece of shit in the trash. Go get one of the Eastwood tools: https://www.eastwood.com/professiona...kaAgqSEALw_wcB
and never worry about screwing up a flare again. So much easier to use and the flares come out perfect.
The wiring is nearing the end and mostly all that is left is to neat everything up and make some labels. The switches are simple. Left is a momentary toggle for the starter, middle is the ECU/fuel pump, and the right will turn on the fan manually. The ECU controls the cooling fan automatically, but this is an over-ride if needed. There is also and interrupt circuit so that the fan turns off if the starter relay closes (prevents large fan circuit amp draw with car off/fan running and someone starts the car). The high-beam indicator is being used to let you know when the fan is running. I used an F-body radiator since they fit into a mustang perfect, are cheap brand new from places like rock auto, and f-body the dual fan setup fits great too. I'm only using one fan and in the event it fails I can just move the plug to the other fan and continue until I replace the entire assembly. The knob is for the cool suit pump and can be adjusted to conserve ice. Radio is there within arms reach and can be seen and adjusted if need along with one of the master kill switches, and the OBDII port is at the bottom. I'll probably add a PTT button for the radio and then I need to add a fire suppression pull station somewhere easy to find/hard to accidentally pull. I'm not happy with the exhaust so I will be re-doing that into something very different. I have most of the materials I will need and we'll see how the next version turns out, but I hate building exhaust in my garage so it has been on the back burner now for a while...
Finally finished few more things and took it on a drive around the block today. That is a 275/40 with 18x10.5 on all four corners. It might rub and I have some cheap plastic flares if needed. The PTFE fuel line is the way to go from now on in my opinion. More $$$, but it is way tougher and it doesn't smell. The only other downside is that it is slightly less flexible and tight bends could be an issue.
I also decided to move the proportioning valve into the car so you could mess around with it while driving. Here's a tip. If you've ever used the cheap flare tools you can buy like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900311/overview/ go ahead and throw that piece of shit in the trash. Go get one of the Eastwood tools: https://www.eastwood.com/professiona...kaAgqSEALw_wcB
and never worry about screwing up a flare again. So much easier to use and the flares come out perfect.
The wiring is nearing the end and mostly all that is left is to neat everything up and make some labels. The switches are simple. Left is a momentary toggle for the starter, middle is the ECU/fuel pump, and the right will turn on the fan manually. The ECU controls the cooling fan automatically, but this is an over-ride if needed. There is also and interrupt circuit so that the fan turns off if the starter relay closes (prevents large fan circuit amp draw with car off/fan running and someone starts the car). The high-beam indicator is being used to let you know when the fan is running. I used an F-body radiator since they fit into a mustang perfect, are cheap brand new from places like rock auto, and f-body the dual fan setup fits great too. I'm only using one fan and in the event it fails I can just move the plug to the other fan and continue until I replace the entire assembly. The knob is for the cool suit pump and can be adjusted to conserve ice. Radio is there within arms reach and can be seen and adjusted if need along with one of the master kill switches, and the OBDII port is at the bottom. I'll probably add a PTT button for the radio and then I need to add a fire suppression pull station somewhere easy to find/hard to accidentally pull. I'm not happy with the exhaust so I will be re-doing that into something very different. I have most of the materials I will need and we'll see how the next version turns out, but I hate building exhaust in my garage so it has been on the back burner now for a while...
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