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1967 Mustang coupe Build.
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Also, if you guys could keep an eye out for a t-5 trans, I think I’ll be swapping it to manual.
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What about the sheet metal that gets welded here on the wheel well, won’t I have to move that over as well? And then there is a bolt hole mount welded to the body for the seat belts.
How should I tackle that?
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Remove the section of pan between the wheel tub and frame rail, that’ll buy you about an inch of clearance
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Originally posted by jtotin View PostI’m going to try to move the fender well over a bit like a mini tub, the Detroit tub where you have to cut into the frame I can’t do because of my rear cradle bolting to that frame. So I’m just gonna try to extend them if I can. Luckily even with my 10 1/2 inch wheels I have good clearance I think because I’m running a 94–95 rear Diff and the offset works well
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Originally posted by BradM View PostIf you do this much work to the car only to have the rear tires extend past the fenders, I will kill you in your sleep.
lol they don’t extend past the fenders. They’re close. But not past it. It looks good. Don’t worry, I may be a Mexican/Hispanic man. But I ain’t THAT Mexican [emoji1787][emoji23][emoji1787]
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If you do this much work to the car only to have the rear tires extend past the fenders, I will kill you in your sleep.
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Originally posted by cool cat View PostNo minitub?
I’m going to try to move the fender well over a bit like a mini tub, the Detroit tub where you have to cut into the frame I can’t do because of my rear cradle bolting to that frame. So I’m just gonna try to extend them if I can. Luckily even with my 10 1/2 inch wheels I have good clearance I think because I’m running a 94–95 rear Diff and the offset works well
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Originally posted by jtotin View PostI’ll take you up on that hahaha
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On to the inner fender-wells I’ve been putting off for forever now lol.
Got the passenger side out today, short work cause the wife got mad haha
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