School me on routers (wood working)

[white trash wagon]

I just stuck with a project requiring about 30 plaque bases of an odd size. After checking with Trophy shops, cabinet shops, and custom wood working shops - they either No Bid, or have a 100 piece minimum.

So I started looking for a used router on CL to make these myself, but realized I don't know enough about routers (I've never touched one) to know what to buy. I figure I need a router table, but the router itself - there are fixed base routers, plunge routers - probably more.

What's the best router for making rectangular bases? I'll probably be using 3/4" walnut, or spruce.

Scott

[AnthonyS]

You can make your own router table cheap. You don't need a high dollar router for what you are doing just the correct bit to get the edge shape you want.

[1carcrazyguy]

Contact Randy at Brasher Trophy in Amarillo. I bet he can help with your order and ship it to you for less than what others have quoted. In fact for 30 he could probably have them done in time for me to deliver them when we come down mid-week.


I used to work there many many years ago. In fact before Randy bought the business from the original owner.

[Ruffdaddy]

I just stuck with a project requiring about 30 plaque bases of an odd size. After checking with Trophy shops, cabinet shops, and custom wood working shops - they either No Bid, or have a 100 piece minimum.

So I started looking for a used router on CL to make these myself, but realized I don't know enough about routers (I've never touched one) to know what to buy. I figure I need a router table, but the router itself - there are fixed base routers, plunge routers - probably more.

What's the best router for making rectangular bases? I'll probably be using 3/4" walnut, or spruce.

Scott

If youre using a table, it'll be a fixed base router. But they sell many routers that have both fixed and plunge base attachments. The plunge router is used mostly when you are routing in the middle of a workpiece as opposed to the edge.

If I were making these, I would cut the shape on a CNC router or a compound miter saw to get the overall shape and dimensions where they need to be. Then I would use the router table and the appropriate bit to shape the edges all fancy like. I'm guessing you're wanting something like a Roman Ogee edge?

If the basic shape is somewhat odd, and cannot be done on a saw, then you will want a template and a plunge router. All you have to do is make 1 template, and use that to guide your router. If you can't get a plunge router, you will have to fixture well and may want to use a flush trim bit that will ride the template edge. If there are tight angles, you will also need to use some sort of bearing guide bit like a flush trim.

What is the shape?

[Sgt Beavis]

I've been using routers since childhood but before I get to deep into this I've got a few questions.

How much are you willing to spend?
How much do you think you'll use the router beyond this project?
Generally speaking are you a pretty decent DIY kind of person?
Are you prone to hurting yourself? I ask this half seriously but a router CAN take your fingers off if you get stupid.

[blandnuts]

If you're close to flower mound, you can borrow mine and the few bits I have. No table though.

[white trash wagon]

The bases are rectangular, just in a size I can't buy at a store. I am pretty handy, and not accident prone. I have band saws, table saws, jigsaws, disk and belt sanders, drill press, etc. Just have never used or owned a router

[Sgt Beavis]

The bases are rectangular, just in a size I can't buy at a store. I am pretty handy, and not accident prone. I have band saws, table saws, jigsaws, disk and belt sanders, drill press, etc. Just have never used or owned a router

OK, so it's not that tough. Porter Cable is still the standard bearer for routers but Bosch makes pretty good ones themselves. You can buy a kit with both plunge and fixed bases. The bases are just what you think they are. You can PLUNGE into the wood stock or set your height on the fixed base and go. A router table can make use of either base. Some routers make good use of their plunge base for easy height adjustment on a router table. My Bosch does this. That said, the KING of routers right now is the 3 1/2HP Porter Cable with a fixed base. It will cut through everything.

To do the job you want to do, you will need a router table. You could make a template and use a bearing guide on the bit to get that job done but a router table is faster and easier. Here is a pretty good deal on a router table on Craigslist:

https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/tls/6049902666.html

There are also some decent deals on routers on CL.

If you are just going to use it occasionally, then go with a Ryobi. There are a few deals on CL for a Ryobi table and router. Just go slow..

For GOOD router bits, check out Rockler or Woodcraft. The ones at big box stores are fine but they will ware out more quickly. Their carbide cutters are usually thinner than what you can find at the specialty stores.

Make sure your router can take BOTH 1/4" and 1/2" bits. This is the diameter of the shaft driving the bit. The router should come with collets for both sizes. As you might imagine, 1/2" bits usually last longer. 1/4" should usually be used for much smaller detail jobs.

If you really want to educate yourself, get this book by Pat Warner:

https://www.amazon.com/Router-Book-Pat-Warner-ebook/dp/B003TXSR3M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491175040&sr=8-1&keywords=the+router+book

Pat Warner is the router God. You can take his word as gospel on this tool. If he says something that conflicts with my statements, then I am wrong.

[Ruffdaddy]

I'll add that I wouldn't recommend a Bosch colt or any other palm router for this job. The Bosch has relatively scrappy collets and maxes out at 1/4" dia shanks.

Buy a good bit like Sgt beavis said. It will mean less cleanup sanding when compared to a cheap big box brand or harbor freight. If you want to save money, I have been very impressed with Yonico. I use Amana almost exclusively for cnc work, but in some cases I'll run Yonico because they sell an oflute bit that performs almost as good as the Amana and onsrud offerings. The pocket finish is the only difference.

I would put Yonico above the "premium" Diablo bits at home depot.

I also have a skil router with a fixed and plunge base that's performed very well for me with some relatively heavy use. It's like 2.5 HP or so, and it will eat through some material.

The main things to get right when edge routing are the feed direction And depth. Most edge finish bits should have a bearing guide so you won't even really need the fence. Actually, make sure the bit you buy has a bearing guide.

[yellowstang]

Is it cheaper to buy 100, than buy a router and table to mount it, and bits? Unless you'll use the router a bunch for other projects?

Bought this router/table kit about 15 years ago, it did what I needed, and never used it again! Sold it when we moved from that house 10 years ago, but it may work for what you need. (one of the first 2)

Click Me

[Sgt Beavis]

Is it cheaper to buy 100, than buy a router and table to mount it, and bits? Unless you'll use the router a bunch for other projects?

Bought this router/table kit about 15 years ago, it did what I needed, and never used it again! Sold it when we moved from that house 10 years ago, but it may work for what you need. (one of the first 2)

Click Me

That routers looks like a rebranded Porter Cable. That's not terrible.