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  • Boat Lights

    As some may know I've bought a Lowe FM 165 and am addicted.

    The only major change I want to make to it is installing some lighting. The stern navigation light really only is helping with others seeing me. So I've bought an LED floodlight that I'll zip tie to it with alligator clips for ambient light. I'm also looking for a deal one a golight gobee to replace the bow light.

    However, I'm struggling to figure out two different types of lights I'd like...

    1. Dim interior lights (Flood light will be nice, but I think too many bugs around during warmer weather.)
    2. Bright underwater lights for fishing

    In both cases, I'm not real sure how boat lighting works. Also, this is a aluminum boat so magnetic does not suffice. I guess my questions are...

    1. Am I going to have to suck it up and drill into the hull/other areas and seal it off for lights? Or is there a glue that is typically used?

    2. How do the fuses work for these. Is there an inline fuse?

    3. How do you run wiring for these things? Just pull up the carpet and glue it back down?

    I found some lights for these various things that I like from bluewaterled.com - but they just sell the lights. I'll need to install them, the wiring, the fuses and the switches. Just trying to make sure I don't screw myself doing it. Any help is appreciated.
    Originally posted by MR EDD
    U defend him who use's racial slurs like hes drinking water.

  • #2
    1. Marine silicone or plumber's Goop will suffice. However, there is an expensive marine adhesive "5200" that is the absolute best stuff to use.

    2. There might be a fuse panel under your console to pick up power. If not, then just come from the battery and go to a switch. Your fuse will come in at the battery in order to protect all the wiring.

    3. Typically, you can remove screws and lay panels open on aluminum boats. The other method is to use a flat blade screwdriver to tuck the wiring in a seam between two panels.

    If you felt so inclined, you could drag your boat to my business. I do anything electrical to boats. However, it's a decent distance from you.

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    • #3
      3M 5200 sealant, the best.

      Comment


      • #4
        Keep in mind, when I say expensive that it's relative to how much I use. You probably won't use half of the tube for your project so it won't eat a hole in your wallet.

        Comment


        • #5
          Understood and thanks for the tips. I read good stuff about that 3M 5200 prior to posting this and it seems recommended. Just some people say it'll last a year, while some say it'll last a lifetime. Just need to research more on it.

          I'm not against bringing the boat out for a more professional install. Just need to evaluate it a little more and figure out cost. The biggest problem I'd have is budget. It would be NICE to do it myself since I could do one set of lights, wait a couple of months - do another...etc.

          I've also thought about just doing the bright hull lights and hoping they provide a little interior lighting - but that maybe expecting too much - since it may just cast a big shadow in the boat.
          Originally posted by MR EDD
          U defend him who use's racial slurs like hes drinking water.

          Comment


          • #6
            You will likely have a big shadow in the boat. I would suggest doing your interior lighting and wiring some 12v sockets in various places to plug in floating fishing lights.

            LED lighting for seeing everything in your boat is very easy to install. The only differences in a "professional" install and a personal one is the hiding of wires and ease of maintenance. Typically, most DIY'ers will half ass some stuff after spending hours on something that a seasoned installer could do in a fraction of the time.

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            • #7
              Roger, understood. Will check it out. I looked at the pricing of that 5200. It's really expensive compared to the cost of a tube of silicon, but for peace of mind and the cost of the project as a whole - it's not that bad on Amazon really. Just need to close the tube in a matter where it does not go to waste sitting around.

              Question - for boat purposes - do I need to worry about better connectors/switches are general 12v connections fine? Maybe just wrap up good with electrical tape?
              Originally posted by MR EDD
              U defend him who use's racial slurs like hes drinking water.

              Comment


              • #8
                Aluminum boats tend to create some havoc with multiple electric circuits. However, good grounds and allowing everything to air out can help. The absolute worst thing you can do is not use the boat.

                Typical connectors will be just fine. It's actually better to leave the connections open to air out rather than wrapping them with electrical tape. The only real exception to this is using some Penetrox to keep corrosion at bay and using heat shrink with sealant to keep it forever dry.
                There is also the option of soldering your connections. Then heat shrink them.

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                • #9
                  Could you use something like this? I used them in my gun safe, and they stick VERY well with the supplied velcro. They are cheap enough where if they dont work out, its no big loss.

                  For those of you with a safe that wants some lighting, but don't want to mess with wires or cords, I picked this up at Walmart for $25. Its completely wireless, and secures to the inside very well with velcro. (http://s257.photobucket.com/albums/hh236/BlitzAttackFF/?action=view&current=9E216AFD-6D33-4696-B269
                  "You don't so much drive it, more like poke it with a sharp stick and channel the fury when you piss it off."

                  FFL & LTC Instructor
                  http://firstresponsefirearms.com/
                  Factory Five MK4 Cobra
                  Build thread-http://www.dfwmustangs.net/forums/showthread.php?t=17889
                  http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l571/BlitzAttack65/
                  www.wix.com/cdurhamwot/blitzattack-mk4-build
                  sigpic

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by 01yz2nv View Post
                    Could you use something like this? I used them in my gun safe, and they stick VERY well with the supplied velcro. They are cheap enough where if they dont work out, its no big loss.

                    http://www.dfwmustangs.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=42870
                    When i saw that thread, I thought the same thing. Would need to be waterproof though. Sometimes a lot of water splashing over and rough ride - so I just don't think those would last. The kits I'm looking at are a little over 100 dollars. Around 50 or so just for interior/live well lights. (Don't really need live well - probably put them somewhere else) I THINK it would be better to go with leds intended for it, that run off the battery too and be done with it.
                    Originally posted by MR EDD
                    U defend him who use's racial slurs like hes drinking water.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      For your interior lights, you could get some of these. My buddy installed these on his champ and they look great.



                      He also installed these for his navigation lights instead of having the stick light.




                      I was reading this the other day too, this guys lights seem pretty good for illuminating the water for crappie fishing etc. I havent personally messed with these though, but they seem good.

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                      • #12
                        Interesting, I like that they come with the connectors and the switch right out of the box. Basically just connecting everything up at that point.
                        Originally posted by MR EDD
                        U defend him who use's racial slurs like hes drinking water.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by ceyko View Post
                          Interesting, I like that they come with the connectors and the switch right out of the box. Basically just connecting everything up at that point.
                          Yea it's real simple, and the 3M tape they have on the back of the lights is awesome too.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by cde21 View Post
                            Yea it's real simple, and the 3M tape they have on the back of the lights is awesome too.
                            I went ahead and ordered that kit in red. Seems like can't lose with it if it is durable at all.
                            Originally posted by MR EDD
                            U defend him who use's racial slurs like hes drinking water.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by ceyko View Post
                              I went ahead and ordered that kit in red. Seems like can't lose with it if it is durable at all.
                              Awesome, post pics after the install!

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