Naynay, I'll option a turbo(s) instead of the 8-71, but I definitely will stay with LSx based motors.
I actually have a pair of custom turbo manifolds, but they were specifically made for f-body and
wont fit the truck chassis, unless I cut and clock the manifold a bit.
Mock up was attempted with the manifolds but they interfere with the down bars as they lay.
Grape, The a-arms have been shimmed a bit, I'll take a look and see what the part numbers are.
This build should have it's own thread. I appreciate the input and support.
Then I can post up more pics too.
Anyone know what's supposed to be mounted to the flanges at the corner of the down bars in
the first pic?
Anyone know what's supposed to be mounted to the flanges at the corner of the down bars in
the first pic?
Cross bar across engine bay, as well as the truck was able to have calipers moved to rear of spindle and use a front shock arrangement instead of rear shock/front caliper.
Lower a's wont be shimed, they might have slugs that allow you to adjust roll center up and down on the forward inner mount. Rear mount of lower a will have an eccentric to swing lower a fore and aft for caster/wheelbase adjustments.
If you look through the passenger side window and to the bar that runs behind the seat at shoulder level, you will see a manufacturer id #. Usually "LRP 8/07" or something of that nature. Im guessing it will say LRP, for these guys http://www.laughlin-racing.com/
Could be HP as well, for hutchison pagen
Sold the last one that was current at the time in late 05...only had a few parts and pieces laying around since. Our last sb2 went to a bonneville guy.
FYI...top speed events are pretty expensive...not just to build for. Depending on the top speed you plan to run, keep in mind that they only let you run so many runs on a single set of tires at that speed.
I remember a TX mile attendee telling me Hoosier only recommended something like 8 runs on a set of Hoosier R6 race tires that were rated to 186mph.
Other than that, start learning about how to keep it on the ground. at that speed, it it is light, it might fly!
I didn't see any stamps on the cage, and no stamps on the lower a-arms. I'll try again during lunch
this week.
Meanwhile, today I was able to finish the clutch line connection and mount it securely. I need to wrap
the hard line to protect it from rubbing damage, it's hard to figure what the vibrations and swirling air
will do when cutting into the wind at 200+mph.
The tilton clutch master is 3/4 bore, my friend that services t-56's says that's a little bit too small of
a bore. Maybe there's more stroke in it?
I'll just have to test later when the motor is running. I have a feeling that the clutch setup will need
a significant upgrade before making a run past 150mph.
Right now it's a new Fidanza aluminum flywheel and a new stock GM disk and new PP. In the past,
I've run these parts 150mph in a Camaro years ago, so I hope they'll push the truck about the same.
I also fab'd the shifter boot bezel, started looking at the Painless harness. Found a Kirkey aluminum
seat to go into the truck, just need to fab the seat brackets. The mounting rails are already slotted
front to back. Later I'll have to get a full containment seat.
Finished "fixing" the 92mm throttle body. It's an ebay knock off of the high dollar name brand throttle
body. It took less than 2 hours and it saved hundreds off of the name brand part. Finished up the
throttle cable relocation bracket at the throttle body, but need to fab up another bracket at the pedal.
Found a 9inch center on ebay, it's an aggressively lightened setup for qualifying, i'm not sure if it is
lightened too much for running top speeds like I want, without cratering.
You will want the smallest clutch master you can get to make the throw as long as possible. I always used 5/8" with the mini clutches, otherwise they were extremely vague and short.
Grape, if you get some available time on a weekend, I'd like to invite you over to eye-ball my truck.
Any info and experience would be a welcome addition to advance the project and may guide the
direction of the build.
On another note, the potential to run turbo(s) is back on the table. Relocating the motor 5 inches
back and raised up anywhere from 0 to 3 inches will change the interference of the custom
manifolds on the down bars. But, that's going to be after stage 1 of the running build is in the bag.
I must admit that the build is being dictated in a large part by the parts that I have at hand,
versus better parts available for purchase. If I don't have a necessary part then I'll get it.
My garage is an accumulation of LS1 parts over a decade. So, I've been able to "source" tons of
parts just by rummaging through my garage. Some things will just have to be home-fab'd versus
buying a slick new shiny part.
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