Nascar T-N-T

[jayjohnson600]

I was out in the garage working on my NASCAR truck project, and I could just
barely hear some cars running on the track at TMS.

I've made some progress on my NASCAR truck project. Instead of 1000 things to do,
I'm down to about 300 things to do.

[racrguy]

This is the first I've heard about it. Details?

[kobuzz]

This is the first I've heard about it. Details?

Yes, please..

[80coupe]

Nice.

[jayjohnson600]

1998 F-150 nascar truck, new, roller. Story is, this came from a pro team that kept it as a
spare roller but never needed it. It has changed hands about 3 times, the previous owner put
on new bearings and a new set of tires and got it painted black. His finances changed and he
put it on craiglist for $6500 about 1.5 years ago. I saw it again about 9months later, then
made the deal for $3500. Originally, this chassis cost over 10grand.

I always had the desire to run a top speed car, even while I was doing well with drag racing.
Looks like i'll just have to do it in a truck, as this build is likely the best, lowest cost, and most
reliable chassis to do this. I just wish it was a Chevy instead of a ford body
I recently put in an LS1/T56. I want to try for Texas mile/Salt flats 200+mph.

I'm going to build it in running stages, since there's ton's that I don't know about, and I'm just
a 1-man racing team
I've already learned quite a bit just from the initial mock up and drive train assembly.
There is almost no information on the web for 200+mph top speed running.

Here's pic with the chassis raised all the way up. It can be dropped right down to the frame.

[jayjohnson600]

Just a rough-out of the stages that seems reasonable:

Stage1 - LS1/T56 Heads/cam/intake/exhaust mods. Get it bolted together, and running/driving.
Needs seat, dash, fuel tank, 9inch 31spline 3.00 gear ratio, drive shaft, pcm tuning. Should
make 425rwhp, should run 150mph. This stage is to shake down the drive train and chassis.

Stage2 - 5.3L truck motor, 8-71 blower, big fuel injection system, tuning. Should make 800rwhp.
This stage is to shakedown the motor, blower, and fuel system.

Stage3 - Relocate drive train 5 inches back, raise tranny 2 inches, shorter headers for
ground clearance, underbody slip panels, slam the suspension, address aerodynamics. Should run
175mph. This stage is to shakedown and optimize the chassis, aerodynamics, and thermodynamics
of the drive train.

Stage 4 - Optimize everything, make weak items heavy duty. Should run 200+mph.

[LaserSVT]

Top speed runs, screw the blower and go turbo. Put a nice pair of snails on it and dial the boost back untill you are comfertable. When ready let them whistle to their hearts content. You have the room, no parasitic loss and easier power on the top end without added stress on the crank that a blower will make. Eliminates belt slippage and everything, just lose a little power down low but for a top end vehicle that shouldnt matter.

Also if 200 is your goal maybe you should use a steeper gear? That double overdirve tranny is just a boat anchor if your rear is too shallow.

Cant wait to see what comes of this. Killer project.

[grove rat]

i'm jelly

[gonzoss]

kickass project!!!

[racrguy]

Dude, put lights on it and make it street legal. That would be cool as fuck, IMO.

[YALE]

5.3? Go 6.2 truck block. Remember that the 4x4 blocks are aluminum.

[Blackpony]

6.0 iron block with a single 88 and go a lower rear gear as to keep driveshaft speed down.

[Grape]

Man, had i known, i just took a bunch of truck arms, lower a's, tons of upper a's and spindles to the scrap yard. All my c&r radiators went, and all the exhaust boom tube stuff. I kept a good rear end housing, a pair of 8 degree std ht spindles and some short track brakes.

What size is the sway bar tube? I might have some bars if you need some.

I do have some lower a's left. The chassis are built on center, but the lower a's are typically offset. Look on your lower a's around the spring bucket. The drivers side will be even numbers starting with 00, 02, or 04. Each designation is a 1/2" different in length starting with 15-3/4". Your right sides will be odd numbers, 01,03, and 05. To get the thing even with negative camber in both sides you will need matching lowers, like an 00 on the left and an 01 on the right. You might also see something like "01 + 1/4 MB 1/2", they go between the 1/2" length changes with the +1/4 designation. the "MB 1/2" means the spring bucket is moved out 1/2". Let me know if you need anything.

And this concludes your nascar math lesson for the day lol.

[naynay]

grape, i could use a set of truck arms...

jay, i would go with an old school 460ci BBF, stroke it to 509-545ci and throw a pair of 88's on it. no reason it wouldnt make 1200+hp waaayyy more efficiently than doing it with a LS based motor, and probable about the same dollar amount.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=_wFuG6l0pDY

[Grape]

Have one set left. Ronnie hopkins 51x2-1/16, small bushing.