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  • #16
    Originally posted by 8mpg View Post
    lol... if it was that easy. And it has sat there for the last few years untouched. I have been really busy with school/work. Getting my degree and a real job has been more important than working on cars. Im currently working 60 hours a week and bridging from my RN to BSN. My bachelors degree should be done by August or so...Then to start a masters degree.

    Cool man, but hell, go spend an hour a week putting the small stuff on it together. Not only will you get more money for it, but it will probably be relaxing. Just go out there once and start working on it, and I bet you start finding yourself out there more and more often... Good therapy..

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    • #17
      I'm looking as well. Just spent a year restoring a '66 coupe and I'm looking for a 65-66 fastback. Problem is, everyone thinks their rusted pile is worth $10k. Like already stated, you just need a solid body, rust is killer on these thin chassis so avoid it at all costs. Everything else is available and easy. If it needs metal or bodywork, it can get expensive.

      I was hoping to spend <$5k on a body, but that seems impossible, so now I'm just waiting to find a decent driver with a solid body. I plan to start from scratch and build a 5.0 efi 5-speed car. If anyone knows where I can find a decent first generation 2+2 let me know.

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      • #18
        www.stangnet.com and www.mustangsteve.com are a couple of other good sites. Recently put on the mustang steve cobra disc brake conversion and working on re-plumbing the fuel system and re-wiring the car.

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        • #19
          That is straight badass!
          Full time ninja editor.

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          • #20
            Clean Mach!

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            • #21
              Originally posted by 8mpg View Post
              little advice when it comes to a classic.

              Its better to spend more money now for a good running/driving car. Its going to cost double what you think it will to fix it up, triple the amount of time.
              One thing you should do when looking at cars in the era you are interested in, especially if they are said to be complete and ready to drive........get them up on a lift and look at the undersides. I don't know how many cars I looked at when I was interested in a complete "restored" and ready to drive car a few years ago. Many looked at from above were nice looking, new paint job, pretty straight, etc. but once I looked underneath, the rest of the story was seen! Nasty on a lot, lots of rust on some.

              Save you time and tell the seller you want it up on a lift when you are coming to see it!
              Mustangs previously owned:
              1967 Coupe V8 (My first car)
              1992 LX AOD
              1993 LX Drag Car
              1995 GTS
              1997 Cobra
              2000 Cobra R

              2002 Corvette C5 A4 10.64@ 127.1
              Undercover SC Dragster 8.10's

              In the garage now....
              2016 Honda Accord Touring
              2015 F-150 Silver 5.0 XLT SuperCrew, like new condition

              Retired 2008 after 41 years as an EE at LTV (Garland)/TI/Raytheon. Enjoying ham radio now.

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              • #22
                Cowls, wheel well lips, door bottoms, floor pans, window channels and fender mounts are all good places for rust to hide. Parts are cheap and readily available. The cars are a breeze to work on unless you get a shit load of up grades like mine then it becomes a task to get anything done. Upgrade the wiring harness and charging system. The brakes are less than lack luster. (single cyl, manual 4 wheel drums) and the steering is vague. Definitely get something that has been rust corrected. I had to cut the whole back side of my car off to repair wreck damage and rust.

                Ohh and x10000 on the overpriced "gems" some guys are selling.
                Putting warheads on foreheads since 2004

                Pro-Touring Build

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Z06killinsbf View Post
                  Cowls, wheel well lips, door bottoms, floor pans, window channels and fender mounts are all good places for rust to hide. Parts are cheap and readily available. The cars are a breeze to work on unless you get a shit load of up grades like mine then it becomes a task to get anything done. Upgrade the wiring harness and charging system. The brakes are less than lack luster. (single cyl, manual 4 wheel drums) and the steering is vague. Definitely get something that has been rust corrected. I had to cut the whole back side of my car off to repair wreck damage and rust.

                  Ohh and x10000 on the overpriced "gems" some guys are selling.
                  Oh yeah...forgot about floor pans but they are important. When you can see ligth coming through the floor if you lift up the carpet...not good.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by 8mpg View Post
                    Oh yeah...forgot about floor pans but they are important. When you can see ligth coming through the floor if you lift up the carpet...not good.
                    Ha, I looked at a 71 Nova and when I lifted the carpet up, the whole floor came with it. Needless to say I passed on that one. Plus the A pillar to roof joint was mushy Explain that one.
                    Putting warheads on foreheads since 2004

                    Pro-Touring Build

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                    • #25
                      Vintage-mustang would have to be my favorite.
                      Also as said before mustang Steve has some good products (i just finished the ball bearing pedal conversion in mine, its a must) as well as Opentracker.
                      68 Coupe- 351w, TFS heads, Comp XE284, 5 speed, Explorer 8.8, 4 Wheel Discs
                      63 Fairlane


                      Originally posted by forbes
                      i call 1911 first then 911

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