Honda Guys

[Buckwild331]

I know its not a ford and i am on a ford site so sorry in advance.

I have a '94 honda accord ex 2.2l auto. My electric fan motor took a dump and over heated melting the housing and the fan off the shaft. I just replaced the whole set up with a replacement kit. I startred the car and let it idle to get the temp up and the fan never kicked on. I unplugged and jumped it to make sure it worked, and it does. I plugged it back in and checked the fuse behind the driver kick panel. After that i checked the fan relay under the hood in the fuse box mounted on passenger firewall. Heres where im stuck. Everything connected with the operation of the fan tested good but, except the fans still not working. Any idea? Thanks

Electric fan--Good
Fuse in kick panel--Good
Fan relay--Good
Temp sensor--Good

[Tx Redneck]

If I'm not mistaken, there's two temp senders, one for the gauge/idiot light and one for the fan. Be sure both are good.

[kingjason]

If only we had a garage section.....................

[Tx Redneck]

If only we had a garage section.....................

Troof!

[Trip McNeely]

Did it fry the wiring?

[ram57ta]

The fan isn't supposed to run constantly on the Accord. I believe it only turns on once the coolant reaches a certain temp like 210f. I also seem to remember that turning on the A/C makes the fan run.

[JimD]

The switch is the one on the t-stat housing.

c/p from alldata
1. Start engine and run until it reaches normal operating temperature.
2. Monitor coolant temperature using suitable thermometer and observe cooling fan operation.
3. Cooling fan should begin to operate when coolant temperature reaches approximately 191-197°F. Fan should stop running when coolant
temperature drops to approximately 182-188°F. When coolant temperature is above approximately 220°F, the condenser fan runs until the
coolant temperature drops to approximately 214°F.
4. Place control in maximum cooling position. Cooling fan should run whenever A/C compressor clutch is engaged.
5. Using suitable gauge to monitor underhood temperature, stop engine and listen for cooling fan operation.
6 With engine stopped and underhood temperature above 220°F, cooling fan should run for a maximum of ten minutes or until temperature drops
below 220°F.
7. If system fails to operate as outlined, inspect fan circuit for blown fuses, loose connections and damaged wiring, and repair as needed.
8. If fan circuit wiring is satisfactory, test components individually and replace as needed. If all other components are satisfactory but system
still does not perform as outlined, replace timer module and recheck system operation. Do not attempt to perform resistance
measurements between module terminals, as timer module may be damaged.

[Forever_frost]

I know its not a ford and i am on a ford site so sorry in advance.

I have a '94 honda accord ex 2.2l auto. My electric fan motor took a dump and over heated melting the housing and the fan off the shaft. I just replaced the whole set up with a replacement kit. I startred the car and let it idle to get the temp up and the fan never kicked on. I unplugged and jumped it to make sure it worked, and it does. I plugged it back in and checked the fuse behind the driver kick panel. After that i checked the fan relay under the hood in the fuse box mounted on passenger firewall. Heres where im stuck. Everything connected with the operation of the fan tested good but, except the fans still not working. Any idea? Thanks

Electric fan--Good
Fuse in kick panel--Good
Fan relay--Good
Temp sensor--Good

Why don't you wire the new fan system to a toggle and then you can turn it on when you get in?

[2011GT]

Why don't you wire the new fan system to a toggle and then you can turn it on when you get in?

cause that's ghetto

[SouthernSVT]

I know its not a ford and i am on a ford site so sorry in advance.

This is a Ford site?

[Buckwild331]

Sorry

I thought i did post in the garage forum, if someone knows how to move it let me know.

I was told if i cant figure it out to run a toggle, but like 2011GT said thats ghetto. I been trying to find a diagram to help me out, but everything i found seems diffrent.

JimD--Thanks for the tip. I'll check that out after work. Is tere anyway to test if it's good or just replace it?

Thanks again for everyones help and tips.

[2011GT]

I thought i did post in the garage forum, if someone knows how to move it let me know.

I was told if i cant figure it out to run a toggle, but like 2011GT said thats ghetto. I been trying to find a diagram to help me out, but everything i found seems diffrent.

JimD--Thanks for the tip. I'll check that out after work. Is tere anyway to test if it's good or just replace it?

Thanks again for everyones help and tips.

When I was in high school I ran an electric fan on my car with a toggle switch for quite sometime. The one time I forgot to turn it on my engine was toast...

[2011GT]

I know you said you checked the relay for the fan but I would replace it. Also check for a good ground on the plug that goes to the fan using a multimeter in the ohm setting. Next put one prong of the meter in the power side of the plug going to the fan and the other prong on the connection point where the fan relay is attached and make sure its not reading open.

[JimD]

JimD--Thanks for the tip. I'll check that out after work. Is tere anyway to test if it's good or just replace it?

Thanks again for everyones help and tips.

Yep.


Radiator Cooling Fan Temperature Sensor / Switch: Testing and Inspection
1. Drain cooling system and remove cooling fan temp switch from the thermostat housing.
2. Connect suitable ohmmeter between sensor terminals.
3. Heat thermo sensor in suitable solution while observing ohmmeter.
4. Meter should indicate continuity when temperature reaches 190-0.03degreesF.
5. Allow sensor to cool while observing meter. Meter should indicate no continuity as temperature drops below approximately 182-188degreesF.
6. If sensor fails to operate as outlined, sensor is defective.