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  • Ok, I suck at search. BMW thread?

    I have always liked the 90's 3 series and I keep seeing several that seem reasonably priced. I think I started a thread on this board once but I lost it. Given that I work from home and just don't drive as much as I used to, I could keep the miles down so a higher mileage cash car would be fine if well maintained. I am thinking in the $4500 range. Preferably like a 325.

    What are the cons to these cars aside from price of parts? Can I walk into a parts store and get parts? Do they have any flaws that always break and cost $$$? Seems that a lot of them have well over 100k miles and still going strong.

  • #2
    As if you'd fit in a beemer

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    • #3
      Originally posted by TEAMJACOB View Post
      As if you'd fit in a beemer
      If you are going by my avatar, that isn't me. :|

      At 6'4", 255ish I fit with plenty of room in a Z3.

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      • #4
        Just fuckin around and I regret joking after readin ur other post about your rough year

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        • #5
          imo you can't get a better car for the money then a e36 bmw. mine has just at 200k miles on it and is tighter then then the brand new acura i drove over the weekend.

          for most parts you can buy at the parts store. if they don't have it bavauto and pelican parts (my fav) have literally every nut/bolt on the car. you have to remember that these cars were basically the honda's of europe and they have a huge following around the world (even here in the states) so parts are easily accessible.

          with that said, they do like to be maintained. cooling systems are notorious problems for these cars. if i were you i'd buy a "cooling system kit" from a place like fcp groton right off the bat. this will come with a new radiator, aluminum thermostat housing, metal impeller water pump, and some new hoses, etc. i'd also advise ditching the motor driven fan for an electric (16" spal fits/works great), low temp fan switch, and a lower temp thermostat (i can provide part numbers for these if needed). once you do that you make these motors about 200% more reliable.

          if you are going non-m car try to find a later 90's model like the 328 with the sport suspension, you'll not only get the better suspension but also the better seats and more power then the 325's.

          in the past 100k miles the problems i've had have been cooling system related (before i did the above changes), starter went out (kinda a PITA since the intake mani has to come off), a/c compressor (very easy and pretty cheap), front control arms (easy and pretty cheap), driveshaft (pretty much a pita and expensive since it is a pretty advanced design), shocks/struts/brakes, window guides (super cheap), and seat motor gear (about 40 bucks and requires pulling seats).

          might sound like a lot to some but it's a higher mileage german car and i like to keep it in top condition. if you don't have that mentality you might want to search elsewhere.

          things to check for are cracks where the rear subframe mounts to car, rear trailing arm bushings, control arm bushings, ball joints, tie-rod ends, listen for any vibration (these cars are very tight and should not vibrate, mine is dead smooth at well over 100mph), overall appearance of the car (i have found these cars are either very well maintained, like mine, or very very poorly maintained), if the interior and paint are pretty rough you have to wonder about how they treated the engine/drivetrain.

          these motors (other then all the accessories) are very tough and i see many on bimmerforums with over 300k miles and going strong.

          let me know if you have any other questions.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by TEAMJACOB View Post
            Just fuckin around and I regret joking after readin ur other post about your rough year
            No worries. It wouldn't be dfwm if there wasn't a kick in the nuts with every post.

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            • #7
              Frank im currently in the market for an E39 540i 6spd, or a clean E46 328 or 330. From everything ive read on bimmerforums the maintenance costs arent as bad as you would think.

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              • #8
                Are you talking nay nays thread? I love bmws

                and my track car

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                • #9
                  original E30 M3?

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                  • #10
                    I'd be interested in hearing what people have to say also, as I am going to be in the market for a new(to me) car in the next few months.

                    The things that dville mentioned sound pretty standard as far as used cars go, but could you be a little more explicit as far as how much "pretty cheap" really is?

                    I've had an old SC300 for the last 6 years, and while they are almost bulletproof mechanically, they do have a few issues that occur on all of them, and some of the Lexus only stuff is higher than giraffe pussy! Control arm bushings are also a common issue, poly bushings run about $60. The problem is that the ball joint is non-serviceable, so eventually you have to replace the entire LCA. They list for $864/ea from the dealer! Luckily most of the drivetrain and suspension are interchangeable with the MKIV Supra, so I was able to score some Supra LCAs for about $275/ea from Toyota.

                    I really like the styling of the E36, and I've driven some non M cars before and they do drive amazingly well. Are the parts prices on the M cars significantly pricier, or in the same ballpark? Would you advise against picking up an M3? Is there a significant difference in reliability and parts cost for a 3.2 vs 3.0?
                    2016 Chevrolet SS 6M

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                    • #11
                      Always liked BMWs but the only one I had was an older 750iL and everything I needed was expensive. If I can get my 90 Fox Notch sold though I may start looking at older 3 series as there seem to be quite a few online for under $2000 with the standard AC not working issues or the windows being stuck.
                      dville GT, great heads up on what to look for.
                      Good judgment comes from bad decisions and a lot of that comes from bad judgment.

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                      • #12
                        My god that E30 is sickkk. Kosei K1s?
                        2016 Chevrolet SS 6M

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                        • #13
                          e36, love them. JUst sold my 93 2door cosmo-schwartz 325 to a chick in Arlington. I've owned 3 and am already looking for another.

                          I really want an obd1 e36 again.
                          Ded

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Pro88LX View Post
                            original E30 M3?
                            Yes a 88 and a 90

                            Originally posted by txsr20de View Post
                            I'd be interested in hearing what people have to say also, as I am going to be in the market for a new(to me) car in the next few months.

                            The things that dville mentioned sound pretty standard as far as used cars go, but could you be a little more explicit as far as how much "pretty cheap" really is?

                            I've had an old SC300 for the last 6 years, and while they are almost bulletproof mechanically, they do have a few issues that occur on all of them, and some of the Lexus only stuff is higher than giraffe pussy! Control arm bushings are also a common issue, poly bushings run about $60. The problem is that the ball joint is non-serviceable, so eventually you have to replace the entire LCA. They list for $864/ea from the dealer! Luckily most of the drivetrain and suspension are interchangeable with the MKIV Supra, so I was able to score some Supra LCAs for about $275/ea from Toyota.

                            I really like the styling of the E36, and I've driven some non M cars before and they do drive amazingly well. Are the parts prices on the M cars significantly pricier, or in the same ballpark? Would you advise against picking up an M3? Is there a significant difference in reliability and parts cost for a 3.2 vs 3.0?
                            Bmw's are easy to maintain but its more of a preventative maintenance. If you wait for it to break chances are it will take out a few more things with it. The 3.0 and 3.2 m3's are stupid cheap to maintain,just keep up with bushings in suspension and cooling system and your golden. Ive had maybe 9 e36 m3's. Not a bad lil rig

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by txsr20de View Post
                              I'd be interested in hearing what people have to say also, as I am going to be in the market for a new(to me) car in the next few months.

                              The things that dville mentioned sound pretty standard as far as used cars go, but could you be a little more explicit as far as how much "pretty cheap" really is?

                              I've had an old SC300 for the last 6 years, and while they are almost bulletproof mechanically, they do have a few issues that occur on all of them, and some of the Lexus only stuff is higher than giraffe pussy! Control arm bushings are also a common issue, poly bushings run about $60. The problem is that the ball joint is non-serviceable, so eventually you have to replace the entire LCA. They list for $864/ea from the dealer! Luckily most of the drivetrain and suspension are interchangeable with the MKIV Supra, so I was able to score some Supra LCAs for about $275/ea from Toyota.

                              I really like the styling of the E36, and I've driven some non M cars before and they do drive amazingly well. Are the parts prices on the M cars significantly pricier, or in the same ballpark? Would you advise against picking up an M3? Is there a significant difference in reliability and parts cost for a 3.2 vs 3.0?
                              I was curious too so I looked it up on Rockauto.

                              Front LCAs are $47 for Doormans and $70 for a little better ones.
                              Rear LCAs are $70
                              AC compressor $193
                              Rear shocks are $40-$70 depending on brand
                              Front struts are $75-$115 depending if you want smooth or performance
                              Window regulators are under $70 and window motors are $100


                              All in all its part prices are cheaper than most Honda and Ford parts.
                              Good judgment comes from bad decisions and a lot of that comes from bad judgment.

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