Change rod bearings? Doesnt that kind of work require to have the rods and crank miced and/or resurfaced?
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Originally posted by LaserSVT View PostChange rod bearings? Doesnt that kind of work require to have the rods and crank miced and/or resurfaced?
nothing on rods and cranks unless banging already.Murph
Lots of cars that nobody desires
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Originally posted by Murph Tang View Postdrop pan, drop windage tray, remove journal, change bearings, put back together.
nothing on rods and cranks unless banging already.
I have never replaced rod bearings without taking a motor apart before but thats because all the motors I rebuild needed rebuilding, not just rod bearings.
I will start priceing them, any particular reccomendations for them? I mean brand wise?
Also I will want to eliminate some body roll so will prolly do the aluminum subframe bushings. Looking for reccomendations on cheapest place for them and sway bars. I will prolly also do a Y-pipe when I do the rod bearings.
That is really all I have planned for it with mods.
The one I like is a one owner car that is now at a dealer. They dont have the cars records but damn is it clean! No scratches, paint looks new but I am told its the OEM paint job, seats and carpet look like new too. Has new tires and the clutch is strong.
Need to unload this Mark VIII ASAP to get the SHO and pay some bills.Good judgment comes from bad decisions and a lot of that comes from bad judgment.
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Originally posted by LaserSVT View PostThe more I look into it the more I like the SHO. Watching videos of stock ones its quite impressive what they can do.
I have never replaced rod bearings without taking a motor apart before but thats because all the motors I rebuild needed rebuilding, not just rod bearings.
I will start priceing them, any particular reccomendations for them? I mean brand wise?
Also I will want to eliminate some body roll so will prolly do the aluminum subframe bushings. Looking for reccomendations on cheapest place for them and sway bars. I will prolly also do a Y-pipe when I do the rod bearings.
That is really all I have planned for it with mods.
The one I like is a one owner car that is now at a dealer. They dont have the cars records but damn is it clean! No scratches, paint looks new but I am told its the OEM paint job, seats and carpet look like new too. Has new tires and the clutch is strong.
Need to unload this Mark VIII ASAP to get the SHO and pay some bills.
Comment
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Originally posted by LaserSVT View PostThe more I look into it the more I like the SHO. Watching videos of stock ones its quite impressive what they can do.
I have never replaced rod bearings without taking a motor apart before but thats because all the motors I rebuild needed rebuilding, not just rod bearings.
I will start priceing them, any particular reccomendations for them? I mean brand wise?
Also I will want to eliminate some body roll so will prolly do the aluminum subframe bushings. Looking for reccomendations on cheapest place for them and sway bars. I will prolly also do a Y-pipe when I do the rod bearings.
That is really all I have planned for it with mods.
The one I like is a one owner car that is now at a dealer. They dont have the cars records but damn is it clean! No scratches, paint looks new but I am told its the OEM paint job, seats and carpet look like new too. Has new tires and the clutch is strong.
Need to unload this Mark VIII ASAP to get the SHO and pay some bills.
Motors love to be beat on and insurance is cheap.
more parts: http://rcmautomotive.com/Murph
Lots of cars that nobody desires
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I like the SHO Source chasis package for $400. Has subframe connectors, H-brace and front + rear strut tower braces.
Add a first gen rear sway bar.
Dynomax catback and a chip. Maybe an off road y-pipe, not sure cause I think it may hurt low end power too much.
Down the road do the ported IMRCs and intake.
Be a fun little ride.Good judgment comes from bad decisions and a lot of that comes from bad judgment.
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Originally posted by cool cat View PostThat's all I have done on my 91, plus springs and better struts, and 99 Mustang GT front brakes. It has 221,xxx on the odometer, and its still very reliable. I just wish I had the time to get it painted. Tony at North Texas Peformance should be able to help you out with the mods you want done, 214 724 3246.
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Originally posted by Murph Tang View Post
So on a NA setup that only has a tune, catback and home made CAI would the catless y pipe be fine for normal street usage or is it too much flow and hurt the bottom end?
I like the idea of an underdrve crank pulley but it seems they are not dampened and I really dont want to add any vibration.
Decided against the aluminum subframe bushings because I read a lot of people claime they add a lot of vibration.Good judgment comes from bad decisions and a lot of that comes from bad judgment.
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Originally posted by LaserSVT View PostWow. Good, now I know someone for when I get nuts again and wanna supercharge the SHO.
So on a NA setup that only has a tune, catback and home made CAI would the catless y pipe be fine for normal street usage or is it too much flow and hurt the bottom end?
I like the idea of an underdrve crank pulley but it seems they are not dampened and I really dont want to add any vibration.
Decided against the aluminum subframe bushings because I read a lot of people claime they add a lot of vibration.
When ready to mod i would go with aluminium subframe bushings first. Not a whole lot of vibration compared to the increase handling they provide. Go with a decent y pipe and switch to chamberless mufflers like magnaflow. Then add a zex kit and 75 shot it all day. Best mod for the buck and the motor loves juice especially in this hot weather. Upgrade to the 96 brake upgrade with stainless steel lines. Rubbers have seen a lot of action and tend to balloon under hard braking. Struts I would spend the bucks and get the adjustable konis so u can cruise as well as enjoy some trips through the hill country twisties. Springs. Cargo coils through rock auto and cut some coils to.drop or go with some eibachs.
Last good tires. Only thing touching the road. Can have great suspension but crap tires are the worst way to cut corner literally.
Hope this helps. This was a good way for me to kill time as I couldn't sleep. HahaaMurph
Lots of cars that nobody desires
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That all helps. I should have pointed out before any modding is done that I would do rod bearings, valve cover gaskets and shim adjustments if needed.
I have been unable to find Eibach springs and figured the SHO Source progressives would be about my taste.
As for tires I cant seem to find anything good in 215/60/16. Falken 512 seems to be about it in that size. I dont want to spend money on new wheels.
Car is supposed to be a daily beater that doesnt put me to sleep. So in the beginning it will only see service and a decient stereo and tint. Power and suspension upgrades are a little down the road.Good judgment comes from bad decisions and a lot of that comes from bad judgment.
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Originally posted by LaserSVT View PostThat all helps. I should have pointed out before any modding is done that I would do rod bearings, valve cover gaskets and shim adjustments if needed.
I have been unable to find Eibach springs and figured the SHO Source progressives would be about my taste.
As for tires I cant seem to find anything good in 215/60/16. Falken 512 seems to be about it in that size. I dont want to spend money on new wheels.
Car is supposed to be a daily beater that doesnt put me to sleep. So in the beginning it will only see service and a decient stereo and tint. Power and suspension upgrades are a little down the road.Murph
Lots of cars that nobody desires
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the aluminum subframe bushings are 100% necessary to performance driving. it makes the car so much more predictable coming into corners. They do not add any noticible vibration. I have filled all 3 motor mounts with shore94(HARD) urethane and I still have no vibration.
I like to run an extreme summer tire even tho they dont last as long. I currently have firestone firehawk wide ovals in 225/50/16 on stock slicers.
I am using monroe sensatrac's front and rear, and used a spring booster in the rear for a little more springrate(rear springs not sagging). Doing this increased traction in the front end considerably. I do have a 91 so I have ideal swaybars.
Like Mike said above, do the maintenence first, then aluminum subframe bushings. Take a look at the top of the water pump and see if there is any moisture or scale. If there is you need to go ahead and buy a timing belt and water pump because for some genious reason the crank sensor is just under the water pump weep hole and it does not like to get wet.
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Ahhh, that explains why crank sensors are one of the more readily available parts. Seems the fan/fuel pump module is also an area of concern.
I tried to register at SHOforums but it says my email has been banned. All three of them and I never signed up there before.
Dicks.Good judgment comes from bad decisions and a lot of that comes from bad judgment.
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