Where to start?

[bottlerocket]

Alright, sorry for all of the rookie threads lately but I just am getting overwhelmed by the information and options out here.

I purchased the Hornady manual and read the front portion before the ballistics charts. I am at a loss of where to start. Now that I have this book, does that limit me to only reloading Hornady bullets unless I go get a book or something for other bullets? Im assuming Hornady specs for BC and COL are specific to THEIR bullets only. I'm pretty much set on powder, thats straight forward from what it seems in the book.

I was curious as to what to start with when reloading for my Savage, so I stopped over to their message boards and found so many different combos of powders, bullets, primers, etc. Will sticking to just Hornady severely limit me? I want to work on my .308 loads to get nice groups, at least for now until it gets back closer to deer season. But for my .40 I just want to make inexpensive rounds for plinking and working on my trigger pull. I'll probably leave the actual self defense rounds making to the experts.

[YALE]

Buy the Sierra book while you're at it.

[bronco71]

anyone else can correct me if I am wrong, I am a self-taught reloader.....you don't have to stick with their brand bullet to use their recipe but if it calls for a 150gr boat tail SP you must stay with that weight and type bullet when using another brand. Always start working up the load from the minimum on the recipe, I load 5 at min powder charge, then 5 each at .5gr increments up to max charge; when shooting look for signs of pressure like blown primers, stuck cases, cracked brass etc. and back off if you see any signs. This will allow for slight changes in brand of brass and bullet. The most accurate loads usually aren't the max loads. NEVER change the type/brand of powder from the recipe. NEVER use a magnum primer when it calls for a regular primer or the reverse. I also change brands of the same type of primer when working up loads. Once I find the best load for that rifle I then stay with the exact same bullet, primer, powder etc, even the brand of brass can change the accuracy. If you want to change to a different bullet, say a 150gr round nose, start over with a lower charge as the pressure will change according to where and when the bullet contacts the lands in the barrel.

Also, a lot of people say to start 10% below max as a general rule; this works fine EXCEPT for magnum calibers, a lower volume of powder in a magnum case can cause extreme pressure due to excess airspace in the case. Don't go below the min charge in the recipe when loading magnum calibers....

Hope this helps and have fun!

[CJ]

Alright, sorry for all of the rookie threads lately but I just am getting overwhelmed by the information and options out here.

I purchased the Hornady manual and read the front portion before the ballistics charts. I am at a loss of where to start. Now that I have this book, does that limit me to only reloading Hornady bullets unless I go get a book or something for other bullets? Im assuming Hornady specs for BC and COL are specific to THEIR bullets only. I'm pretty much set on powder, thats straight forward from what it seems in the book.

I was curious as to what to start with when reloading for my Savage, so I stopped over to their message boards and found so many different combos of powders, bullets, primers, etc. Will sticking to just Hornady severely limit me? I want to work on my .308 loads to get nice groups, at least for now until it gets back closer to deer season. But for my .40 I just want to make inexpensive rounds for plinking and working on my trigger pull. I'll probably leave the actual self defense rounds making to the experts.

Yes you now have the hornady data. The books usually stay useful for 10 years. Id get the sierra manual like Yale suggested and maybe nosler. You can find loads at data.hodgdon.com and also I believe loaddata.com. when using online data, always double and triple check the loads to where you see a consensus.