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**dee** · 01-19-2013, 07:25 AM

Chamfer/deburr tool and calipers. If you want match style performance in the 308 get a bullet comp to measure off the Ogive. Other than that welcome to the dark side, it's very addicting.

**KBScobravert** · 01-19-2013, 07:49 AM

Originally posted by dee View Post

Chamfer/deburr tool and calipers. If you want match style performance in the 308 get a bullet comp to measure off the Ogive. Other than that welcome to the dark side, it's very addicting.

My Grandad has been reloading since the mid 80's and is a very obsessive compulsive person who picks a hobby and burries himself in it. He tried to get us grandkids into reloading but we were too young to appreciate it (13yrs old). I sent him an email asking for advice kind of hoping he would just give me all the shit (a HUGE walk in closet worth of presses, dies, measures, scales etc). lol Hell he is 90 and can't even see a .223 case mouth to not crush it with the bullet and press. Won't hurt to buy it all anyways.

Originally posted by grandad

I didn't forget you....Lee is the best for quality on all reloading needs ....www.leeprecision.com....ask them to send latest catalog....RCBS is a good quality at a high price....Hornady is for ammo....a late comer to reloading presses and tools....Lyman is solid for brass tumblers. The Lee scale is OK....the best scale is RCBS 10-10....order with RCBS powder trickler....this scale is a must have. Lee is a manufacturer of everything they offer....second generation family owned....their carbide dies are super for all pistol calibers....their steel dies for all rifle calibers....except....I use only their collet dies for rifle calibers....these only size the rifle case necks....useable in only the rifle that fired the initial round in the case....this is the best set up....you just have to keep your fired cases and reloads for a particular rifle separated....OK.

I would start out with Lee carbide pistol dies for 9mm 45acp 357 magnum...38caliber sizes in same die....30-06 308 and 2:23 in both Lee steel dies and Lee Collet dies....you'll need the following....
Lee Reloader press #90045....get two of these
Lee Auto-prime #90230....get two of these
Lee Hand Loader #90685
Lee Shell Holder sets #90198 and #9019
Lee Challenger press #90588
Lee Classic Turret press #90064
Finally for pregressive reloading....which I have declined to continue for many years now as ammunition loading is a serious operation....not really dangerous in the operating setup....but the end product just has to be right....no ifs ands or buts about it....and it is impossbile to monitor every step in the progressive cycle from the empty brass to the final bullet....the most important hurdle is the powder charge....I have yet to find an automatic powder measure that is consistent in every powder charge delivered....I have two Lee Auto-disc Powder measures....and Lyman's original powder measure....they are all three very good....but no auto powder measure is absolutely consistent....and in my opinion....that is absolutely the requirement....so....in my case I have been weighing each powder load with my RCBS 10-10 scale and RCBS powder trickler....absolute accurate powder charges every time....I do have the Lee Pro 1000....but today I would recomment the updated version....the Lee Load-Master....it is the ultimate in my opinion....things to know....only use CCI Primers for pistol and Winchester Primers for rifle loads....magnum primers or never needed buy primers off the shelf from Cabela's....UPS charges a $20 extra for all primer and powder shipments....I always hand load each primer....never in a press....except for shotshells....I have Lee 12, 16, 20 gauge progressive reloaders which are fool proof....easy to monitor each cycle....never a problem....the 380 is too small a case to work with....the small necks on rifle cases of less than 30 caliber are to too small for me to reload....ofter inserting the bullet will collapse the case mouth....you will need a bullet puller....looks like a hammer....any brand with do.

When I had my FFL I bought mostly from Jerry's Sport Center....the very best source....selection and price....but you have to have a state tax certificate on file with them to do business....send them an email request for their reloading catalog....tell them you are a GunShow Dealer in Texas....they have three shipping locations....I have bought from Midway....Mid-South Shooters Supply....Graf & Sons....Natchez....Cabela's....dial them up on the internet....email them for a catalog....all are good....just depends which has the best price for the items you need....lastly....you'll need a Wilson gauge for each caliber you reload to certifly bore accuracy.

You'll need a reloading manual....the very best....SPEERS RELOADING MANUAL....I am still using Speers No.11 for pistol and rifle loads....there are many offered....there is much conflicting load data amongst the lot....can be confusing when confidence is most needed....you can safely rely on Speer reloading data....absolutely....but the Lee Reloading Manual #90277 has a lot of useful information.

Reloading kits can save money....the best would be Lee Breach Lock Challenger Kit #90030....it includes the BEST Lee Powder Measure #90058....a good powder scale....and one of the auto-primers you'll need....you need to avoid Disks Powder Measures....it is hell trying to come up with the right size powder disk for a given powder load....powder dippers come with each die set....but order the Lee Powder Measure Kit #90100....it has helpful backup data....plus a complete set of powder dippers....every die sizer automatically decaps the fired brass....but I prefer to decap all my brass....in all diferent calibers as my first reloading operation....you will need the Lee Decapping Die #90292....install it permanently on one of the two Lee Reloading Presses #90045....the 'C' style one....then clean all you brass in the Lyman tumbler....I use corn cobs for cleaning....walnut powder for polishing....be sure each cleaned case is clear of corn/walnut residue....now I separate cases by caliber....run each case through the proper sizing ie....now you are ready for priming each case with the small or large primer....measure the powder load with a dipper....a little less than max....scale up to correct load with the powder drippler....you are ready to load the bullet....I have case crimping dies for each pistol and rifle calibers....crimping secures the bullets in the case....a must to overcome recoil when weapon is fired....you'll need to attach each press to a composition wood base board....at least 10"x10"x1" in size....spray both sides with lacquer....recess the underside of the board 1/2" for each screw nut....I have a couple extra for you and the tool for insetting the screw nut....you'll need a couple of regular 6-inch 'C' clamps to grip the base to a work table top edge....this makes everything portable for storage....this ought to fix you up proper....keep your head down.

**dee** · 01-19-2013, 08:11 AM

Very solid advice, he gave you. A book is something I noticed he recommended that I didn't think about. I have several different books as I like cross referencing to.make sure all the data is similar. His advice on crimping is something that I'm on the fence about good neck tension is all that is required in most cases, now semi auto actions most recommend crimping but usually crimping can have an affect on accuracy to an extent. You will rarely find a NM shooter with crimped loads if you find one at all and they will all say they have no issue as long as there is good neck tension, even the M1/M14 guys say this.

Edit: Sorry a lot of this runs together, I'm in my deerstand and editing my mistakes isn't real easy.

**KBScobravert** · 01-19-2013, 08:21 AM

Originally posted by dee View Post

Very solid advice, he gave you. A book is something I noticed he recommended that I didn't think about. I have several different books as I like cross referencing to.make sure all the data is similar. His advice on crimping is something that I'm on the fence about good neck tension is all that is required in most cases, now semi auto actions most recommend crimping but usually crimping can have an affect on accuracy to an extent. You will rarely find a NM shooter with crimped loads if you find one at all and they will all say they have no issue as long as there is good neck tension, even the M1/M14 guys say this.

Edit: Sorry a lot of this runs together, I'm in my deerstand and editing my mistakes isn't real easy.

Well they were reloading mostly to hunt with not squeeze out sub moa accuracy. That might be the difference. Wouldn't most off the shelf stuff be crimped?

**dee** · 01-19-2013, 08:33 AM

Most probably is for liability issues of not knowing what kind of action the rounds will be used in. I hunt with all my loaded stuff as did my grandfather and my dad still does with nothing being crimped with no issues. On hunting and semi auto stuff it is best to full length size for reliable feeding. Crimping is one of those things that you will probably find 50% do advise it and the rest only do under certain conditions. I will say my dad rides around all day with Reloads in a case in a rough farm truck and has yet to have any bullets move in or out. The Poor case gets thrown, kicked and bounced around a lot.

CJ · 01-19-2013, 02:59 PM

Lee has kind of filled the part of the budget reloader nowadays. I use to not crimp .223 until I got some bad bullets which were not resized and some rounds me and phaux loaded blew up a colt Ar15. Crimping is essential.

**YALE** · 01-19-2013, 04:04 PM

My thoughts are: your grandad is cool as hell, Keith.

**Chas_svo** · 01-19-2013, 04:08 PM

Originally posted by Yale View Post

My thoughts are: your grandad is cool as hell, Keith.

This.

**dee** · 01-19-2013, 05:05 PM

Originally posted by CJ View Post

Lee has kind of filled the part of the budget reloader nowadays. I use to not crimp .223 until I got some bad bullets which were not resized and some rounds me and phaux loaded blew up a colt Ar15. Crimping is essential.

If they weren't properly sized do you really feel that crimping would have helped? I'm assuming they were undersized.

**KBScobravert** · 01-20-2013, 05:12 AM

Originally posted by CJ View Post

Lee has kind of filled the part of the budget reloader nowadays. I use to not crimp .223 until I got some bad bullets which were not resized and some rounds me and phaux loaded blew up a colt Ar15. Crimping is essential.

I think I can go with the above Lee stuff and another progressive set up. I am not to keen on the Lee progressives. Looks like Hornady Lock and Load is pretty sturdy and accurate.

Originally posted by Yale View Post

My thoughts are: your grandad is cool as hell, Keith.

He is. Like I said, he gets a hobby and becomes a pro at it. He turns 90 this year and still fills his doe tags every year. Lets the bucks go to the bucks and enjoys doe meat all year round. Should see what he did in the 70's and 80's in motorcross for my Uncle.

**Mike K** · 01-20-2013, 06:11 AM

Keith,

I don’t mean to get your thread off topic, but have you decided what primer/power/projectile combos you will be doing with the calibers you plan on reloading? I think I have everything I need to reload on my RCBS Rock Chucker, so I am in the middle of buying all of my reloading supplies now. I started buying all of my reloading stuff when all the Christmas holiday sales started after Black Friday, so I was able to get a small head start before all of this craziness started. Right now it is just frustrating trying to buy stuff.

**03trubluGT** · 01-21-2013, 08:21 PM

Forget the Lee and go with Dillon.

CJ · 01-22-2013, 08:07 AM

Originally posted by dee View Post

If they weren't properly sized do you really feel that crimping would have helped? I'm assuming they were undersized.

They were crimped, actually. I just saw how bad an incident can occur if a bullet gets knocked in. I measured 100 of the projectiles after the incident, every single one of them was oval.

**dee** · 01-22-2013, 04:08 PM

Yea, I'm not sure much at all would help in that instance.

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