Show us those reloading setups!!!!!

[slowyellow]

As for the snapping problem you described, that's usually due to the shell plate having too much vertical play.

Now, the adjustment for "vertical play" is tightening down the large center cap screw correct? Which you are supposed to tighten down based on the friction that you encounter when the shellplate goes to index. I don't think that mine is too loose, but I can try to tighten it a little. I adjust mine to where there is slight friction on the plate when it indexes, I don't want to have to push on the handle to get it to index. But I will if I have to, I have the power spilling out and it makes a mess.

[CJ]

Now, the adjustment for "vertical play" is tightening down the large center cap screw correct? Which you are supposed to tighten down based on the friction that you encounter when the shellplate goes to index. I don't think that mine is too loose, but I can try to tighten it a little. I adjust mine to where there is slight friction on the plate when it indexes, I don't want to have to push on the handle to get it to index. But I will if I have to, I have the power spilling out and it makes a mess.

The best way to judge it is not just the friction but also the cases. Put a case in there and advance it so it's captured, then move the case left/right and see how much play it has (wiggle check). Make sure you don't have any debris in your detent bearing which might be giving it too much pressure. If it still does it you need to cut some coils on your detent spring. That is most likely your problem. The "snap" is that detent ball seating in the shell plate on each index. Too much spring pressure = too much snap.

[slowyellow]

Ok thanks CJ, I'll try to mess with that and see if it fixes it.

[CJ]

Ok thanks CJ, I'll try to mess with that and see if it fixes it.

Cut a coil off at a time until it's working for you. And if you cut off too much tell dillon to send you another one.

[slowyellow]

Cut a coil off at a time until it's working for you. And if you cut off too much tell dillon to send you another one.

Lol, wouldn't that be taking advantage of their no BS warranty??

[bottlerocket]

Not sure what you mean about the priming path, but it drops it from a hopper into a bin, I've never cleaned mine in 20k rounds through that press - that's a non issue. It's all whether or not you want an auto-indexing press or not. Just remember each dillon level you go up - 550, 650, 1050 - the caliber conversion kits double in price and complexity.

Not trying to compare the 550 and 650. Trying to decide between the 650 and the LnL AP. Even though the price of the LnL AP is more comparable to the 550.

The primers are exposed when they fall so all the crap thats still in them that may be broken loose by the decapper can fall in the press. The Hornady has a small tube the dead primers fall through

[GSXRK5]

I was gonna get a 550 but then decided I wanted a 650. I'd be loading .223 .45 and .40 in bulk. And use my single stage for .308.

[bottlerocket]

I already do all my handgun calibers on a Square Deal and it keeps up just fine. All that would be done on the larger press would be rifle rounds so at the moment that would include: .223, .308, 30-30, 30-06, and 300WM. So not THAT many caliber conversions to buy, and I already have the dies. Only thing I don't have is the X-Die which I just ordered on CJ's suggestion. I cant wait to not have to trim my 223 brass!

[CJ]

Not trying to compare the 550 and 650. Trying to decide between the 650 and the LnL AP. Even though the price of the LnL AP is more comparable to the 550.

The primers are exposed when they fall so all the crap thats still in them that may be broken loose by the decapper can fall in the press. The Hornady has a small tube the dead primers fall through

They're not exposed. Have you ever seen a Dillon machine?

[bottlerocket]

They're not exposed. Have you ever seen a Dillon machine?

Lol yes the 550 and the SDB, never the 650 in person. They fall through the middle of the press correct?

[bobs94formula]

I know this is old, but I didn't want to start a new thread. Got my bench pretty much done. Just something small and cheap to get me started. I have to put my shelf on the bottom and I am going to attach a shelf or two to the wall for misc stuff.

[CJ]

Looks good!

[dee]

Looks pretty sturdy so it should serve you very well.

[slowyellow]

Best advice that I have for you is bolt that bench to the wall, you won't regret it I promise.

[black2002ls]

I figured I would dig this up instead of starting a new thread. I am designing the workbench for my hobby room. It is going to be an L shaped desk, roughly 8' on the long side and 4' on the short side. I plan to use the short side for re-loading. I have a couple of questions that I am looking for guidance on. How deep, how tall, and how many supports! I plan to set a 2x4 on the wall with 3" screws into studs and support the corners with double 2x4's for legs. Will the 2x4 on the back wall be enough support or should I add legs? Maybe step up to a 2x6? As for height and Depth, I am thinking 24" deep and 30-32" tall. Other than re-loading, it will be used for model cars and other small hobby type stuff. At some point, there will be a hobby lathe/mill mounted to it as well. I am not planning a progressive press, just a lee challenger single stage.