Interesting problem - pistol length gas block on midlength rail?

[Gtracer]

can you extend the detent radially so that it you could machine a slot in the rail and rotate it with the detent? I'm assuming that looking at it from the barrel there are 3 settings, at 3,9 and 12 oclock. You could mill a slot in the top of the rail and have the lever protrude the rail 3mm or so, it wouldn't get caught on shit, but you might be able to rotate it by hand.

After looking at the pic this is close to what I was thinking. Is there anyway you can cut a small section of the rail out almost as an "access hole" right above this section?

[CJ]

After looking at the pic this is close to what I was thinking. Is there anyway you can cut a small section of the rail out almost as an "access hole" right above this section?

That's the only thing I can come up with that really solves the problem, but it would look like shit. I guess I could put a rail cover over it, but just feels like a cop out. And I hate rail covers.

[Gtracer]

You know I was thinking of a plunger for a toilet...if you can attach a cupped piece of silicone to a wood or metal dowel rod then you could essentially slip the silicone/rubber over the knob.

Only problem with that theory is that the housing seems to have notches in it where that small screw would slide into position which means that you would have to pull the Big knob outward and then spin, correct?

If this is the case then you can’t use a "plunger" or a screw driver. It would seem that you actually need to get some fingers on there to make an adjustment.

[Gtracer]

That's the only thing I can come up with that really solves the problem, but it would look like shit. I guess I could put a rail cover over it, but just feels like a cop out. And I hate rail covers.

Cut a little at a time, smooth out the edges and maybe, if your a true DFWM baller, you can powder coat the rail black so you do not see any of the cut/filing marks?

[CJ]

You know I was thinking of a plunger for a toilet...if you can attach a cupped piece of silicone to a wood or metal dowel rod then you could essentially slip the silicone/rubber over the knob.

Only problem with that theory is that the housing seems to have notches in it where that small screw would slide into position which means that you would have to pull the Big knob outward and then spin, correct?

If this is the case then you can’t use a "plunger" or a screw driver. It would seem that you actually need to get some fingers on there to make an adjustment.

yeah that's exactly what I mentioned in my first post, a socket extension essentially. You have to depress the detent to spin it. You could angle/knife the detent so when you slip a socket into it, it depresses it.

Cut a little at a time, smooth out the edges and maybe, if your a true DFWM baller, you can powder coat the rail black so you do not see any of the cut/filing marks?

If you do it right you shouldn't mar the finish, and you could just use some flat/satin paint to cover the aluminum that's exposed. I could just put a 4" pistol handguard on it, but damn that looks like shit.

I might just replicate the Hera Arm's SBR exactly. If I used the mid length MOE handguard I could just pop it off and adjust it. Come to think of it... are there any 2 piece free float rails on the market?

[Gtracer]

yeah that's exactly what I mentioned in my first post, a socket extension essentially. You have to depress the detent to spin it. You could angle/knife the detent so when you slip a socket into it, it depresses it.

Okay, how about this: you drill a hole in the rail matching the position of the small depress button. This will allow you to depress with minimal modification to the gun.

Maybe you can find an extra knob and play around with welding an hex head to it, dead center and straight that is. Then you can clean it up and what not to make it look nice for your satisfatction?

This would work but would still be a two step process that is much more cumbersom than the current process although it would solve your problem...

[CJ]

Okay, how about this: you drill a hole in the rail matching the position of the small depress button. This will allow you to depress with minimal modification to the gun.

Maybe you can find an extra knob and play around with welding an hex head to it, dead center and straight that is. Then you can clean it up and what not to make it look nice for your satisfatction?

This would work but would still be a two step process that is much more cumbersom than the current process although it would solve your problem...

There just has to be a better way.

If Adam's Arms would ever answer my phone call I would bitch so much they'd invent a new product.

[Gtracer]

I am not Dochtor or whatever his S/N is but a quick Goole turned up this:

Samson Star - 4 AR Pistol Free Floating Rail is a two piece free float rail system for the AR Pistol or SBR. The STARS-4 by Samson is a 4" length free floating pistol rail.

http://www.opticsplanet.net/samson-star-4-carabin-length-rail-system-ar.html

I know there are guys on here though that probably know much more than me...I am just good at ummm, ----- rigging things

Edit: looks like Adams Arms offers something though I cannot see because the peeps at work blocked me from looking at guns while on the clock....I bet they voted Obama too....

http://www.google.com/url?q=http://www.adamsarms.net/products.asp&sa=U&ei=C1r6TurNKI2ntgeH4MyKDA&ved=0CC0QFjAI&usg=AFQjCNHPcAyd0ftOS6Nc9XNBwmeSsMlBrQ

[CJ]

I am not Dochtor or whatever his S/N is but a quick Goole turned up this:

Samson Star - 4 AR Pistol Free Floating Rail is a two piece free float rail system for the AR Pistol or SBR. The STARS-4 by Samson is a 4" length free floating pistol rail.

http://www.opticsplanet.net/samson-star-4-carabin-length-rail-system-ar.html

I know there are guys on here though that probably know much more than me...I am just good at ummm, ----- rigging things

Edit: looks like Adams Arms offers something though I cannot see because the peeps at work blocked me from looking at guns while on the clock....I bet they voted Obama too....

http://www.google.com/url?q=http://w...9XNBwmeSsMlBrQ

Yeah I've been through all of these already. I don't want a 4" rail, I think it looks ridicuous. Especially when you have 4" of additional barrel, and then 6" of suppressor in front of it. I don't have anything to hold onto. Not to mention when I'm hunting it would burn the shit out of me on a sling if I were shooting it.

[KBScobravert]

Detent holes to press plunger plus a hex nut welded to the face of the knob followed by a cheap 1/4" extension and socket.

Now make it happen, take pictures and document it here. Get to work so you can pave the way for me. lol

[Nash B.]

This thread has dissuaded me from the gas piston idea. I don't want to pay $500 only to have to rig something up to make it work.

[CJ]

This thread has dissuaded me from the gas piston idea. I don't want to pay $500 only to have to rig something up to make it work.

It's a weird circumstance for me because I'm having to use a pistol gas block location and a mid length hand guard. Most of the time you use the proper gas block location for the handguard, and there are tons of setups that make that work perfectly fine.

[Nash B.]

Why mid length instead of carbine? But even a carbine handguard won't work with a pistol-length gas system will it?

[ThreeFingerPete]

I might just replicate the Hera Arm's SBR exactly. If I used the mid length MOE handguard I could just pop it off and adjust it. Come to think of it... are there any 2 piece free float rails on the market?

I hate you a little. Let me know what you figure out for the FF tube, and make 2. I'll buy the other.

[CJ]

1

Why mid length instead of carbine? But even a carbine handguard won't work with a pistol-length gas system will it?

No, pistol is 4", carbine is 6". If I'm going through the damn hassle I'm going to get a hand guard that covers the muzzle. I'm going to do either a 9" or 10.3" barrel depending on where the muzzle falls on the handguard. I'd like to do a rifle length on a 10" barrel so my suppressor is inside the rail, but then it's heavy.