Gun Safes

[sc281]

I've got a few cheap safes.

If I were to do it again, I might get a few military storage cabinets and call it good.

[red89notch]

I'll take one of each of those storage cabinets please.

[GrayStangGT]

The best tip I have is to take the door off of whatever you buy while moving it. It will make it a couple hundred pounds lighter.

This is why external hinges are better, door opens further and you can take it off. My big one has internal hinges and the door only opens to 90 degrees which doesn't seem like a big deal in the store, but get it in a small space and it sucks.

[8mpg]

Set a budget

[ceyko]

We cut 1” thick steel at work with a quickie saw so I’m sure you could cut open the highest of dollar safes with one.

When at that Garland store, they had a bank vault with thicker steel than I could ever afford. I can't remember the details, but what I took away from that was that they got into it pretty quick.

I would buy a Graffunder if I was a baller. Also in that store they demo'ed how you cannot fit a business card between the door and the rest of the safe...etc and they just look sweet. Think they were in the 10K range.

http://www.graffundersafes.com/

Upside is less prying locations, but of course at that point they just cut.

I see safes built half as good as those at price ranges that are getting close to that price. I'll pay extra for thicker steel, better warranty of contents/the safe itself, better construction (tiny gaps as with the Graffunder), better bolts, better locking mechanisms...etc.

However, most safes I see around you're paying for paint, size (which is reasonable) and general cosmetic features. Have to weigh how much paint and non-functional features matter to you price wise.

I will say the 1 feature/add-on that I think is a requirement is a door organizer. Really opens up the safe for you and makes things easier to find.

[jw33]

Amsec or Sturdy

I’m happy with my Sturdy safe.