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  • wickedblkgt
    replied
    Originally posted by motoman View Post
    With that being said, you want something that's capable of hunting and can shoot 1000 yards, which comes down to caliber.

    As BlackGT said, both 6.5CM & .308 will do it, 6.5CM just does it faster and straighter. Plenty of guys are running 140gr AMAX in the PRS without any issues. I've seen the 140gr AMAX take down deer plenty big. Hornady happens to make match ammo with the 140gr AMAX for $25-$30 a box. Think of the 6.5CM as the new .308.

    The .308 will do it as well, I was banging steel at 1000 yards with a 175gr SMK just a couple weeks back.

    If I were in your shoes I would find a Ruger Precision Rifle in 6.5CM, add an Atlas Bipod, and a Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50, with a set of Vortex Rings. That'll do more than you need for right under $2500 and will still give you room to grow if you decided to start into competition.
    Game changer. I started doing some research on this, and I'm pretty impressed. The Ruger precision is everything rolled into one ie: stock, barrel, bolt, etc. Thanks for the advice. Where can I fine one at a good price????

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  • motoman
    replied
    Originally posted by wickedblkgt View Post
    I don't think I want to compete, I don't think I can afford it😢
    With that being said, you want something that's capable of hunting and can shoot 1000 yards, which comes down to caliber.

    As BlackGT said, both 6.5CM & .308 will do it, 6.5CM just does it faster and straighter. Plenty of guys are running 140gr AMAX in the PRS without any issues. I've seen the 140gr AMAX take down deer plenty big. Hornady happens to make match ammo with the 140gr AMAX for $25-$30 a box. Think of the 6.5CM as the new .308.

    The .308 will do it as well, I was banging steel at 1000 yards with a 175gr SMK just a couple weeks back.

    If I were in your shoes I would find a Ruger Precision Rifle in 6.5CM, add an Atlas Bipod, and a Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50, with a set of Vortex Rings. That'll do more than you need for right under $2500 and will still give you room to grow if you decided to start into competition.

    Leave a comment:


  • wickedblkgt
    replied
    Originally posted by BlackGT View Post
    Buy a rifle that is capable (not top of the line capable) of what you are wanting to do. Then as you practice and shoot to the rifles potential, start upgrading.

    A Savage 10 or 12 (6.5 Creed, .308, .243) Ruger Precision Rifle (6.5 Creed, .243, .308) or Tikka CTR (.308, 260 Rem) would be perfectly serviceable for your current needs and have many upgrade options available. Good triggers, actions, and out of the box accuracy from all three of these.

    Notice I didn't mention Remington... I don't think Remington offers any factory rifles that can compete with the 3 listed above. Their triggers are junk and would need to be replaced to even equal the 3 above. Their QC is lacking more and more...

    Calibers, my thoughts.
    .308
    good to 1000+ yards
    Easiest to reload for (many many loads that will print sub-MOA groups)
    Biggest selection of factory, off the shelf, match grade ammo
    Good supply of "cheap" ammo as well

    6.5 Creedmoor
    Capable of 1000+ yards
    Hornady match ammo available that prints sub-MOA groups in pretty much all rifles I know of, about $25-$30/box
    Easy to reload for, brass is not as plentiful and only made by 2 or 3 mfgs right now
    Better ballistics than .308 for long range work.

    .243
    Capable of 1000+ yards (as long as the rate of twist is fast enough to to stabilize the longer heavier bullets, which it is in the Ruger)
    Easy to reload for, brass can be made from .308, 7-08, 260, etc.
    Not much, if any, match grade factory ammo
    Not as good of selection of bullets as the 2 above.

    260 Rem
    Capable of 1000+ yards
    Not much factory match grade ammo
    Ammo cost can be high
    About equal to 6.5 Creed in performance but uses a little more powder as well.
    Loading with Long heavy bullets could mean the OAL may exceed your magazine length of you have to reduce powder charge to seat bullet deeper in case which gives an edge to 6.5 creed with heavy bullets for long range work.
    Very informative, thank you!

    Leave a comment:


  • wickedblkgt
    replied
    Originally posted by motoman View Post
    Do you just want to shoot 1000 yards or do you want to compete? Throw us a bone here. You can spend $1200 on a rifle and $800 on glass and shoot 1000 yards. Doesn't mean the rifle is going to be super accurate but it'll get it done. At that point it's going to be more about your loading ability and your shooting ability.
    I don't think I want to compete, I don't think I can afford it😢

    Leave a comment:


  • BlackGT
    replied
    Buy a rifle that is capable (not top of the line capable) of what you are wanting to do. Then as you practice and shoot to the rifles potential, start upgrading.

    A Savage 10 or 12 (6.5 Creed, .308, .243) Ruger Precision Rifle (6.5 Creed, .243, .308) or Tikka CTR (.308, 260 Rem) would be perfectly serviceable for your current needs and have many upgrade options available. Good triggers, actions, and out of the box accuracy from all three of these.

    Notice I didn't mention Remington... I don't think Remington offers any factory rifles that can compete with the 3 listed above. Their triggers are junk and would need to be replaced to even equal the 3 above. Their QC is lacking more and more...

    Calibers, my thoughts.
    .308
    good to 1000+ yards
    Easiest to reload for (many many loads that will print sub-MOA groups)
    Biggest selection of factory, off the shelf, match grade ammo
    Good supply of "cheap" ammo as well

    6.5 Creedmoor
    Capable of 1000+ yards
    Hornady match ammo available that prints sub-MOA groups in pretty much all rifles I know of, about $25-$30/box
    Easy to reload for, brass is not as plentiful and only made by 2 or 3 mfgs right now
    Better ballistics than .308 for long range work.

    .243
    Capable of 1000+ yards (as long as the rate of twist is fast enough to to stabilize the longer heavier bullets, which it is in the Ruger)
    Easy to reload for, brass can be made from .308, 7-08, 260, etc.
    Not much, if any, match grade factory ammo
    Not as good of selection of bullets as the 2 above.

    260 Rem
    Capable of 1000+ yards
    Not much factory match grade ammo
    Ammo cost can be high
    About equal to 6.5 Creed in performance but uses a little more powder as well.
    Loading with Long heavy bullets could mean the OAL may exceed your magazine length of you have to reduce powder charge to seat bullet deeper in case which gives an edge to 6.5 creed with heavy bullets for long range work.

    Leave a comment:


  • motoman
    replied
    Originally posted by wickedblkgt View Post
    I guess I want to build a tactical LRR, sence I can't justify spending $3500 on a scope and another $2500 on a gun. The 338 Lapua Barrett at Academy was pretty cool, but not for $8k.
    Do you just want to shoot 1000 yards or do you want to compete? Throw us a bone here. You can spend $1200 on a rifle and $800 on glass and shoot 1000 yards. Doesn't mean the rifle is going to be super accurate but it'll get it done. At that point it's going to be more about your loading ability and your shooting ability.

    Leave a comment:


  • wickedblkgt
    replied
    I guess I want to build a tactical LRR, sence I can't justify spending $3500 on a scope and another $2500 on a gun. The 338 Lapua Barrett at Academy was pretty cool, but not for $8k.

    Leave a comment:


  • motoman
    replied
    If you don't know what you're going to use the rifle for then I would advise against an impulse buy. A long range competition rifle is going to be completely different than buying a hunting rifle. Plain and simple, know what you're getting into before buying a rifle.

    You can use a plan jane rifle for competition but you're going to be at a severe disadvantage.

    I'm sure the new magpul hunter stock is going to great for keeping the weight off of a rifle but it's not something I would put on a rifle I relied on accuracy for. Injection molded with an aluminum bedding pillar doesn't offer much in the way of rigidity. Choate & Hogue have been doing it for a long time and there's a reason a lot of people get rid of those stocks. You can feel the flex in the injection molded ADL stocks when you shoot one, that's why I got rid of mine.

    Caliber is going to play a big part in what you want to do with the rifle.

    Leave a comment:


  • wickedblkgt
    replied
    And how cheap the Remington 700 ADL was.

    Leave a comment:


  • wickedblkgt
    replied
    Originally posted by motoman View Post
    Before you do that, talk to us, I was recently in this situation and can potentially answer some questions based on your intended use of the rifle.
    I'm not really sure why I want to build this rifle, I guess some has to do with the cool factor, maybe I would like to do some hog hunting( I'm not a hunter), maybe I would like to get into the sport of long range, I'm not really sure???? As gay as this sounds, it all started after I saw the new MagPul Hunter 700 stock and I wanted it.

    Leave a comment:


  • motoman
    replied
    Originally posted by wickedblkgt View Post
    I will keep everyone updated as money can afford. I will more than likely go and buy the rifle ( Remington 700 ADL) tomorrow at Academy in .308 for $365. Next will be glass, I'm leaning heavy towards Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50.
    Before you do that, talk to us, I was recently in this situation and can potentially answer some questions based on your intended use of the rifle.

    Leave a comment:


  • motoman
    replied
    I'm just now seeing this thread and I'm surprised no one has asked this so here it goes...

    What are you going to do with the rifle? Hunting? Competition? FTR class? Tactical/Practical? Based on what you say will have SOME difference in the answer you get.

    Leave a comment:


  • dee
    replied
    Originally posted by wickedblkgt View Post
    keeps it lighter, which I'm still learning why you would lighting a heavy barrel, seems counter productive.
    It is 99% aesthetic since it doesn't reduce that much weight. Also keep in mind a lot of button rifle barrel companies won't stand behind a fluted barrel. My advice is to pick a contour that offers good balance and weight while still being easy to carry.

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  • wickedblkgt
    replied
    Originally posted by David View Post
    Why a fluted barrel?
    keeps it lighter, which I'm still learning why you would lighting a heavy barrel, seems counter productive.

    Leave a comment:


  • wickedblkgt
    replied
    Originally posted by LANTIRN View Post
    You gonna keep this thread updated? Would like to see what direction you go, base rifle, mods, glass, caliber, etc.
    I will keep everyone updated as money can afford. I will more than likely go and buy the rifle ( Remington 700 ADL) tomorrow at Academy in .308 for $365. Next will be glass, I'm leaning heavy towards Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50.

    Leave a comment:

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