Milling Machine to use

[AnthonyS]

Anyone know of or have a milling machine I could use to cut some 1911 slides for Novak sights? I will bring / use my own bits and supply some liquid refreshment for the trouble. I'd even pay rental if necessary.

I will eventually get my own small milling machine but a good one is going to cost at least $2000. It looks like setting up a gunsmithing business is going to be 2 or 3 years off due to costs and equipment, but I will eventually set up shop. I know Novak sight cutting alone has a long wait at most places. I'm going to cut my Rock Island slides first and then do my Colts. I took machine tool operator school in the US Navy and was a backup instructor for the class. I also took machine tool classes in college back before the CNC days.

[svauto-erotic855]

How far are you willing to drive?

[Ruffdaddy]

You live in dallas?

[AnthonyS]

Yes I am in Dallas. I'm willing to drive a little ways. I want to use a good milling machine since I'm going to have to invest $150+ on good bits for making Novak cuts.

[Darren M]

Write up and take pic opportunity?

[Ruffdaddy]

Would it not be cheaper to take it to a machine shop?

And for just a few slides, will HSS not work? Those bits look pretty cheap.

[inline 6]

These are dovetail mounted? You have the endmills to cut the dovetail slots for those sights? How do you plan on holding the slide without marring it? Machine vise have smooth jaws but will still mar the part. I need to remove the slide off of one of my 1911's and take a look at how it can be done. I have never machined a 1911 slide so I don't know if it is common for them to be hardened. If they are will need to anneal first.

I hate HSS for anything other than aluminum. It dulls out way too fast IMO.

Also, if 2k for a good mill is new price that's not a lot to start with. Chris just picked up a very solid used machine for $600. Buying the machine is only the very tip of the iceberg when it comes to owning a nice mill or lathe. You will quickly double or triple that amount in tooling and a quality DRO which I would NOT skimp out on if you want to do any nice work with the machine.

[Ruffdaddy]

I wouldn't anneal for fear of warpage. But the again I don't know how these things are manufactured.

I think he's only making like 2-3 so 2 HSS bits would probably work using one to rough and the other to finish right? I don't machine anything really hard except on rare occasions.

[Mach1]

Dallas maker space

[AnthonyS]

HSS bits are made for this but they don't last long. Carbide is definitely the way to go. And yes vices, tooling etc. all cost a lot. I'm not a newbie to machining. I just don't own a machine or have ready access to them anymore.

And yes it's going to take a couple of nice phenolic blocks in a vice to keep from marring the slides. There are other methods too like using some really fine grain krokus cloth etc if slippage is a concern. But if once you start cutting on a slide you are going to need to refinish it or do some touchup anyway due to the exposed bare metal.

I'm going to cut my RIA slides and then cerakote them and then install the new sights. Yes this a photo op too. I won't do my Colts until I'm ready to take my rebluing class. My DE has plenty of scratches on the main frame. The slide is nice but once it's cut on it will need to be reblued too.

I want to do my RIA 38 super first. Then maybe my RIA 45. It may already be cut for Novaks I need to check. After that it will be my DE and if that works well I'm going to do my series 80 Colt. I'm also going to checker the front straps on them at the same time.

And as far as taking it to a machine shop that defeats the purpose of me doing it. And honestly I don't trust most people as well as I trust myself. It's a whole lot easier to measure 3 or more times and cut once than let someone else fuck it up.

[Ruffdaddy]

I'm all about that DIY so more power to you. My original understanding was that you were mostly concerned with lead time from a machine shop. If you're wanting to turn this into a business or hobby then sure good cutters make sense. I haven't machined gun slides, but I've done a bit of machining and still do. Mostly aluminum and plastics. Some steels and composites as well. But most of my experience is running CNC...so measuring 3 times or even 100 times doesn't make a difference if you're unfamiliar with the machine and equipment. Milling has a lot less opportunities for screwing up on an unfamiliar machine.

Let us know how it works out, and I assume you're gonna give a couple of practice runs on some plate or rod to give updates on.

[Ruffdaddy]

BTW all the machines I use are in Austin at techshop, and if you're wanting to do it yourself I'm not really any help as far as equipment usage goes.

If makerspace is anything like techshop its a good choice to get started.

[inline 6]

I have a few ideas about how to make those cuts as clean as possible. Either way sounds like you just need access to a machine.

[AnthonyS]

I have a few ideas about how to make those cuts as clean as possible. Either way sounds like you just need access to a machine.

Always willing to learn from others' experience and listen to good ideas.

I know when it comes to machining slow is fast, and it's going to require good bits and patience. Most of the procedures or suggestions I've seen are to use good end mills to cut the slots before staring with the dovetails which makes perfect sense. I'm used to approaching final dimensions slowly. I'm not sure how to do that with a dovetail bit since they are sized to final dimension.

Yes in another 2 or 3 years this will become a side business.

[S_K]

End mills remove the bulk so the dovetail cuts faster and more precise. You can cut the rough opening and let the slide cool before making the precise cut. Less chance of warping. Also by using an end mill first, you can cut a larger opening than your dovetail if the angle is the same. Just cut one side at a time.