Sig 556 rifles?

[Cannon]

The 556 sucks, I had to pump three to four rounds into an insurgent just to get him to stop. The .50 cal is where it's at gents. Go big or go home you wannabe "assault rifle" gurus.

[YALE]

So, can you two explain how you would judge the 556 less accurate? Was it seat of the pants feel or did you bolt it down and bench it? Is the accuracy difference based on a recoil system that isn't as efficient and "rocks" the gun more than the AR or is the barrel inconsistant?

Also, CJ, explain how a piston driven AR can be cheaper than the $1100. I get "build one" but the adams arms kits with the parts I want start at $700....what am I missing or am I looking in the wrong places?

<---never built an AR or really looked into it beyond swapping a complete upper onto my existing lower.

Gracias.

There were Adams Arms uppers for $550 on Midway the other day. You might hunt one. Assuming you paid $200 putting your lower together, on the high end, that's still a new rifle for $750.

EDIT: $577 on clearance. Do it.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/674968/adams-arms-ar-15-a3-base-carbine-gas-piston-upper-assembly-556x45mm-nato-1-in-7-twist-16-barrel-melonite-finish-with-m4-handguard-flash-hider?cm_vc=2913BrandPopProd

[CJ]

So, can you two explain how you would judge the 556 less accurate? Was it seat of the pants feel or did you bolt it down and bench it? Is the accuracy difference based on a recoil system that isn't as efficient and "rocks" the gun more than the AR or is the barrel inconsistant?

Also, CJ, explain how a piston driven AR can be cheaper than the $1100. I get "build one" but the adams arms kits with the parts I want start at $700....what am I missing or am I looking in the wrong places?

<---never built an AR or really looked into it beyond swapping a complete upper onto my existing lower.

Gracias.

They're not really $700, that's what they ask on their site retail. You can find full kits for 300-400 if you look around. You just have to be smart about how you spend your money and look for good deals. It all depends on patience. Yale posted a smoking deal as an example. They're all really easy to install and get working. Except for the pistol length piston kits. Mine has proven to be kind of a bitch.

[KBScobravert]

They're not really $700, that's what they ask on their site retail. You can find full kits for 300-400 if you look around. You just have to be smart about how you spend your money and look for good deals. It all depends on patience. Yale posted a smoking deal as an example. They're all really easy to install and get working. Except for the pistol length piston kits. Mine has proven to be kind of a bitch.

Yep, find the deals and have money on hand. Threefingerpete ran across two kits one day at CTD in McKinney that were missing parts. Out the door both kits ran me less than $300. One needed a $40 op rod and the other needs a op rod gas plunger free if I call AA and ask.

I have a midlength and two carbine lengths on running guns. I have a rifle length but for $40 it may be another middy also lol. My pistol length is still sitting in the box.

[Quadforce]

I have to admit I thought pretty much if it was a Sig it was suppose to be good but now to see how inaccurate they are from testimony that is something to keep in mind

[CJ]

I have to admit I thought pretty much if it was a Sig it was suppose to be good but now to see how inaccurate they are from testimony that is something to keep in mind

It's just that rifle. It isn't representative of the quality of their firearms. That was a civilian variant they made.

[aggie97]

They're not really $700, that's what they ask on their site retail. You can find full kits for 300-400 if you look around. You just have to be smart about how you spend your money and look for good deals. It all depends on patience. Yale posted a smoking deal as an example. They're all really easy to install and get working. Except for the pistol length piston kits. Mine has proven to be kind of a bitch.

The upper version I am wanting from AA at Midway was over 900 bucks. The one posted had the standard foregrip and I have read that very few handguards with rails fit the AA uppers without a lot of clearancing.

So that $900+ upper combined with the $200+ lower put the price over the sig 556 with similar rail/handguard setup.

Anyway, thanks for the inputs...

[YALE]

The upper version I am wanting from AA at Midway was over 900 bucks. The one posted had the standard foregrip and I have read that very few handguards with rails fit the AA uppers without a lot of clearancing.

So that $900+ upper combined with the $200+ lower put the price over the sig 556 with similar rail/handguard setup.

Anyway, thanks for the inputs...

There are a TON of handguards/rails that fit the Adams Arms system.

[CJ]

The upper version I am wanting from AA at Midway was over 900 bucks. The one posted had the standard foregrip and I have read that very few handguards with rails fit the AA uppers without a lot of clearancing.

So that $900+ upper combined with the $200+ lower put the price over the sig 556 with similar rail/handguard setup.

Anyway, thanks for the inputs...

Why would you spend $900 on an upper? Build it yourself. You seem to have missed the point. Buy the $500 upper, put a $150 samson EX rail fit for an adams arms and you're in it for $650, $850 with your $200 lower. That's the handguard you see on the adams arms rifles. I don't know what else to tell you except my only recommendation is don't be stupid with your money. If you want to prove that it's more expensive to build an AR15 with a piston it just isn't, me and a ton of people on the board have done it. You can overpay for anything. If you don't like the handguard or whatever - you can always add it. You can't add accuracy to a Sig 556. You're going to end up with a more accurate rifle in the AR15 setup. If you want to just buy a Sig556 than just do it. It seems to me like you're trying to convince yourself to buy the Sig 556. I guess one of the advantages the Sig 556 has is it isn't an AR15.

[aggie97]

Why would you spend $900 on an upper? Build it yourself. You seem to have missed the point. Buy the $500 upper, put a $150 samson EX rail fit for an adams arms and you're in it for $650, $850 with your $200 lower. That's the handguard you see on the adams arms rifles. I don't know what else to tell you except my only recommendation is don't be stupid with your money. If you want to prove that it's more expensive to build an AR15 with a piston it just isn't, me and a ton of people on the board have done it. You can overpay for anything. If you don't like the handguard or whatever - you can always add it. You can't add accuracy to a Sig 556. You're going to end up with a more accurate rifle in the AR15 setup. If you want to just buy a Sig556 than just do it. It seems to me like you're trying to convince yourself to buy the Sig 556. I guess one of the advantages the Sig 556 has is it isn't an AR15.

I'm trying NOT to screw around with building an AR. I get they can be cheaper, I just don't have time to research which parts fit with what, where to find the cheapest part on line etc....oh, and if something fails, I have to remember where I got it or look for it again. I hear what you guys are saying on the 556, it's falling down the list of wants pretty quick. I mostly want a piston driven .223 but don't want to deal with assembling one. Some of you like to be thrifty and build YOUR gun. I'm not that type of person when it comes to guns. I want to buy and shoot without worries. Cars and parts are a different story which is sort of weird, but when it comes to guns/ammo and such, I just don't have the attention span to deal with it.

I tried my hand at loading my own 9mm rounds like many have suggested. I spent hours locating a specific powder that I might like, more hours looking for the best deal on bullets, policed up 350+ brass from the range time, spent more hours buying once fired brass for the right price...which still hasn't arrived and required more effort to be the squeeky wheel. Spent more hours finding the primers, 2 more hours setting up the press and reconditioning it to make it work right. I ended up with 350 "softer" rounds that the wife and I loved at the last competition. However, I can't tell the difference between the loads and the cheap ammo from academy. The wife loves them but I can't sit around spending HOURS and HOURS on loading rounds when I can go to academy and buy them in 10 minutes for about the same price or call ammo to go and have them even cheaper. I am sort of equating building an AR to the experience I had reloading.

I guess what I am trying to say is yeah, saving money is important for most of us, but there are some of us who just don't want to deal with the hassles of putting together the puzzle because kids, racing, chores at the house, cub scouts and school get in the way of pinching pennies.... I'm not discounting ANY of ya'lls input because it has been helpful, but just asking that you realize some of us don't have the time some of you have to tinker like you do.

[CJ]

I'm trying NOT to screw around with building an AR. I get they can be cheaper, I just don't have time to research which parts fit with what, where to find the cheapest part on line etc....oh, and if something fails, I have to remember where I got it or look for it again. I hear what you guys are saying on the 556, it's falling down the list of wants pretty quick. I mostly want a piston driven .223 but don't want to deal with assembling one. Some of you like to be thrifty and build YOUR gun. I'm not that type of person when it comes to guns. I want to buy and shoot without worries. Cars and parts are a different story which is sort of weird, but when it comes to guns/ammo and such, I just don't have the attention span to deal with it.

I tried my hand at loading my own 9mm rounds like many have suggested. I spent hours locating a specific powder that I might like, more hours looking for the best deal on bullets, policed up 350+ brass from the range time, spent more hours buying once fired brass for the right price...which still hasn't arrived and required more effort to be the squeeky wheel. Spent more hours finding the primers, 2 more hours setting up the press and reconditioning it to make it work right. I ended up with 350 "softer" rounds that the wife and I loved at the last competition. However, I can't tell the difference between the loads and the cheap ammo from academy. The wife loves them but I can't sit around spending HOURS and HOURS on loading rounds when I can go to academy and buy them in 10 minutes for about the same price or call ammo to go and have them even cheaper. I am sort of equating building an AR to the experience I had reloading.

I guess what I am trying to say is yeah, saving money is important for most of us, but there are some of us who just don't want to deal with the hassles of putting together the puzzle because kids, racing, chores at the house, cub scouts and school get in the way of pinching pennies.... I'm not discounting ANY of ya'lls input because it has been helpful, but just asking that you realize some of us don't have the time some of you have to tinker like you do.

I understand that, but to buy that lower and slide on EX rail on it you would just need 1 hex key. That's it. As for ammo, it takes time but the savings are off the charts. You must be factoring in the cost of everything, but I generally load ammo for 3-5 times cheaper than retail. Once you get more experienced you'll get quicker and save more money. It's all proportionate to how serious of a shooter you are. If you shoot 30,000 rounds a year, you need to reload. If you shoot 300, you probably don't need to reload.

[Moose242]

I mostly want a piston driven .223 but don't want to deal with assembling one.

Why not buy a .223 AK variant by arsenal? Atlantic has many for around $1,000. You could also look into a Mini 14. For around $1,000 if you want a piston gun you have a few options outside the Sig or an AR variant.

[YALE]

Shit, an already converted Saiga in 5.56 would be the cheapest route, if all you want is a piston and that caliber.

[Moose242]

Shit, an already converted Saiga in 5.56 would be the cheapest route, if all you want is a piston and that caliber.

If piston and caliber are the only stipulations, why bother with any sort of conversion? Buy a saiga in .223 and *BAM* $350 piston gun.

[CJ]

If piston and caliber are the only stipulations, why bother with any sort of conversion? Buy a saiga in .223 and *BAM* $350 piston gun.

Yep, reliable too. But, not cool.