ALG Defense Triggers

[CJ]

I have no problem doing anything myself at all,Considering I built a 1500 Hp Mustang, and Ive assembled quite a few Ar Rifles from scratch (not slapping an upper and lower together). My problem with this is just as CJ mentioned, "polishing" thru the case hardening, I don't know what the result of this would be. Trigger wearing out prematurely, trigger failing when I don't need it too, I don't know, so Ill shell out $65 and try one of these new ones. I cant really say that I know how a "good" GI trigger is supposed to feel, but I will be able to tell if its better than the shit that's in it. I'm going to do a "trigger job" on the trigger I take out and try in in my other AR15 or maybe my AR pistol. I just don't want to fuck up the one in my nicer rifle and have it fail when Ive got a nice herd of piggies in front of me. I'm also going to try out some of the JP springs.

*** technical jabble warning ***

The case hardening on most all AR15 trigger's is .020" or greater, that gives you plenty of material to remove to get it flat and to polish it. I've done about 100 triggers and I've never had one go through. In the event you did happen to go through the case hardening it would result in a trigger that would wear out in about 100 pulls or so, it would start to get sloppy and the creep would be very ridiculous.


AR15's have positive engagement on the hammer. That means that when you depress the trigger, the positive angle on the trigger causes it to push the hammer momentarily backwards before it's released and discharges the firearm. They do this for safety reasons. That is where your creep comes from. When you bring the engagement to 0, or a 90* angle you don't have wasted mechanical energy on moving the hammer backwards before release. However, it is more probable for it to discharge, however very unlikely. Too much negative engagement and the hammer could slip off the trigger surface and discharge if the rifle was jarred or banged.

Essentially, the reason most aftermarket triggers are so expensive on AR15's is because a two axis (two pin) system transfers too much energy to the trigger, you can only get it so light before it gets dangerous. The solution is to change the way it operates entirely, so it's safer and lighter. Also, when you lighten the trigger on an AR15 you must reduce the spring pressure to gain any real advantages. You usually do this by cutting a leg off. The PROBLEM with this is on some surplus hard cup primers you won't get a discharge. I've never experienced this until lately when I did some trigger jobs on these DPMS parts kits in the GB. I may have removed too much from the spring, but it did have FTF due to hammer pressure. You need to have a little experience to know when you have enough, and when you don't and just adjust it. But, I wouldn't tell anyone not to do a quick trigger job, it's definitely worth it.

A simple trigger job is just sanding down the trigger contact surface (the front of your trigger) and making sure it's as smooth as a mirror and has a sharp edge. These ALG triggers have a slight rounded edge/chamfer to the end, which is indicative of an improperly finished trigger. This will result in not having a crisp clean break. Looks like they got a little lazy with their polishing. when you polish a trigger face you need to make sure you have another surface butted against it, so it doesn't round it off. I use a piece of glass when I'm polishing on my wheel to prevent that.

[bigshoe]

lies, all lies.

where is the "I am running away" smiley to use here?

Riiiight.

How long have you known me? Jump in feet first then ask for advise. hey it works most of the time.

[bigshoe]

the case hardening on most all AR15 trigger's is .020" or greater, that gives you plenty of material to remove to get it flat and to polish it. I've done about 100 triggers and I've never had one go through. In the event you did happen to go through the case hardening it would result in a trigger that would wear out in about 100 pulls or so, it would start to get sloppy and the creep would be very ridiculous.


AR15's have positive engagement on the hammer. That means that when you depress the trigger, the positive angle on the trigger causes it to push the hammer momentarily backwards before it's released and discharges the firearm. They do this for safety reasons. That is where your creep comes from. When you bring the engagement to 0, or a 90* angle you don't have wasted mechanical energy on moving the hammer backwards before release. However, it is more probably for it to discharge, however very unlikely. Too much negative engagement and the hammer could slip off the trigger surface and discharge if the rifle was jarred or banged.

Essentially, the reason most aftermarket triggers are so expensive on AR15's is because a two axis mechanic system transfers too much energy to the trigger, you can only get it so light before it gets dangerous. The solution is to change the way it operates entirely, so it's safer and lighter. Also, when you lighten the trigger on an AR15 you must reduce the spring pressure to gain any real advantages. You usually do this by cutting a leg off. The PROBLEM with this is on some surplus hard cup primers you won't get a discharge. I've never experienced this until lately when I did some trigger jobs on these DPMS parts kits in the GB. I may have removed too much from the spring, but it did have FTF due to hammer pressure. You need to have a little experience to know when you have enough, and when you don't and just adjust it. But, I wouldn't tell anyone not to do a quick trigger job, it's definitely worth it.

A simple trigger job is just sanding down the trigger contact surface (the front of your trigger) and making sure it's as smooth as a mirror and has a sharp edge. These ALG triggers have a slight rounded edge/chamfer to the end, which is indicative of an improperly finished trigger. This will result in not having a crisp clean break. Looks like they got a little lazy with their polishing. when you polish a trigger face you need to make sure you have another surface butted against it, so it doesn't round it off. I use a piece of glass when I'm polishing on my wheel to prevent that.

Damn, thanks for the info. Ill take one apart this weekend and try it out. I read an article about cutting the spring and where to cut it for best results. I have a few extra spring kits, ill play with it some and see what happens. Ill polish up the ALG if I have too.

[CJ]

Damn, thanks for the info. Ill take one apart this weekend and try it out. I read an article about cutting the spring and where to cut it for best results. I have a few extra spring kits, ill play with it some and see what happens. Ill polish up the ALG if I have too.

Just keep this in mind as most people don't realize it, and most people just use some crude measurement. The second leg that you cut still keeps tension on wherever it contacts. Originally it contacts your trigger pin to apply pressure. When you cut it, the cut leg will then contact the base of your receiver, at the bottom. Cut it too much and it will swing right past the base of your receiver and apply no pressure at all. Just feel how hard the hammer hits and decide yourself. I reload all my ammo, so my primer cups are all pretty average or soft. The gun that had the FTF problem fired 100% of my rounds.

I can teach you how to case harden your steel if you're interested in changing your engagement angle.

[bigshoe]

Just keep this in mind as most people don't realize it, and most people just use some crude measurement. The second leg that you cut still keeps tension on wherever it contacts. Originally it contacts your trigger pin to apply pressure. When you cut it, the cut leg will then contact the base of your receiver, at the bottom. Cut it too much and it will swing right past the base of your receiver and apply no pressure at all. Just feel how hard the hammer hits and decide yourself. I reload all my ammo, so my primer cups are all pretty average or soft. The gun that had the FTF problem fired 100% of my rounds.

I can teach you how to case harden your steel if you're interested in changing your engagement angle.

I would defiantly be interested in learning, but first I'm going to have to read your post a few more times to fully get it.