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just irritates me when people make a post and never respond to it
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Sorry for the lack of pics, I'm a old fart and still can't get the pics onto the foram.
Open for help.
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Use the
button, after the last post
then scroll down and click "manage attachments"Comment
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Look at the tsuba (hand guard/balance point), if it's real it'll be very ornate and will have the craftsmans "signature". Also the material its constructed out of will tell you approximately when the sword was made. If it's leather then it should be well weathered and you could be looking at something from the 13th century, not very likely and they are worth a fortune. Regular cast iron would mean it's probably a cheap one, carved Jade or Ivory who knows. Gold would be good!Comment
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Man, try not to sell that. I'd just help them out a bit in the future and keep the value to yourself. It was obviously worth very little to them - or at a minimum it is worth more to you then it was to them. To sleep well at night I'd just help out a bit more and call it the day.Originally posted by MR EDDComment
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I thought authentic old school handle wrap would be shark/ray skin and braided cloth like silk, not leather.Originally posted by BP View PostAtlantic Blue '00 - '03 Cobra motor and TKO600, solid axle, full MM suspension
Silver '01 Vette - D1 blown LSComment
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The only honorable thing to do is to Seppuku...Originally posted by SilverbackComment
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Kart..
A little more info to confuse you...
There are basically 2 different types of Samurai swords that were brought back by the GI's. They were either military issue, or a family sword. The long blades were known as Katana's.
Officer/NCO swords are usually found in a metal scabbard (Saya), have a metal handle (Tsuka) and have an id number stamped on the blade just forward of the hand guard (Tsuba).
The family swords are found in either long (Katana) or medium length(wakizashi). A short dagger (Tanto) were also brought back.
The handle(Tsuka) are wooden, covered a sharkskin/ray skin and then wrapped in a diamond pattern with a handle cord ( Tsuka-ito). Many had a metal decoration secured by the rope called a Menuki.
Now, many family swords were carried during the war, and I've seen some where they changed out the handles and used a metal scabbard in lieu of the family hardware.
Signed Swords... The signatures were usually the man who made the blade. There were also signatures of schools that were training people to make the blades. If a blade isn't signed, that doesn't mean the blade is of poor quality, just as a signed blade doesn't mean high quality.. Seen examples both ways. My sword was made/signed by a 14 year old boy.
There's a small bamboo pin (Mekugi) that holds the handle on. Just gently push it out. The handle should come off with just light pressure. If it doesn't, hold the sword upright in one hand and hit at the base of the thumb with you other hand with a clenched fist. it should knock it loose.
DO NOT SAND OR GRIND ON THE HILT!!!
Use a piece of chalk to outline any writing (kanji)..
Just like any edged weapon, condition of the blade is the driving factor in what it's worth.
Do some good research and you should be able to find out what you blade is worth..
Bill
Natural law. Sons are put on this earth to trouble their fathers.Comment
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There can only be oneComment
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Where are the pics of this thing?Comment
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Here the pics.
http://s1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee410/Kart21/
Hope it works
Sorry for the delay.
Any where else do youall know to take this too ?Last edited by Kart21; 05-27-2011, 02:40 PM.Comment
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No Dr. Pepper can for reference? Take it to the only logical place, Pawn Stars.Originally posted by Kart21 View PostComment
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Tiles on the floor are 12.5 inches by 12.5 inches.
Between my p.o.s. computer and finding the download cable for the camera...
Hail on the truck, windshield on the wifes car, shingles off the roof.
Just been one of those weeks.
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Looks nice...
'06 STS-V
'86 GN
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