Smoked my PS3

[miketyler]

Even with my elaborate surge protection on the rack, I guess the last storm we had took its toll on my electronics again and this time its the PS3. The unit won't see network connections, Wifi or LAN and wont see or register my BT remote.

This is one of the first gen fattys that I have in my media closet just for playing Blurays. I already reset defaults and reloaded the OS (although not sure it actally did this as quick as it came back)

Unless its an easy fix I think its time to upgrade. I do little to no gaming so I would be fine with smallest drive model. Any great deals out there on the slims? What are the differences in newest gen models?

[Lason]

Sony will trade out your old style for a refurb slim model for $99, FYI.

https://service1.us.playstation.com/rma.htm?_flowExecutionKey=_c8D1B0814-5FA1-D5CD-9888-ADA2529C1555_k848D20C9-890A-139B-B6DA-7DA19EACBC50

[miketyler]

Thanks for the quick response. Hard to beat that deal. Am having atough time seeing the details on that though. Do you have to schedule service and input your info to get the upgrade replacement option?

Admittedly, before these last issues mentioned my classic PS3 quit outputting digital audio thru the optical port to my amp. Maybe it was just on its way out anyway.

[Gtracer]

Am having atough time seeing the details on that though. Do you have to schedule service and input your info to get the upgrade replacement option?

You have to call their service dept, explain what the system is doing. Usually the tech will walk you through a few "required" troubleshooting tips which you can try while you are on the phone. Assuming these do not work, Sony will issue you (right there on the phone) a RMA number and they (Sony) will mail you a box with all foam required for packaging as well as a USPS label to tape to the exterior once you are done packing.

Send the device to Sony, they will take about a week to receive and process. Assuming they cannot repair the unit they will issue a simular designed device (refurb) in exchange for your non-working device. You must pay the $99 fee over the phone prior to them sending you any packaging.

edit: takes about 2-3 weeks for the complete process from phone call to replacement/repaired unit coming back to you.

[Lason]

You have to call their service dept, explain what the system is doing. Usually the tech will walk you through a few "required" troubleshooting tips which you can try while you are on the phone. Assuming these do not work, Sony will issue you (right there on the phone) a RMA number and they (Sony) will mail you a box with all foam required for packaging as well as a USPS label to tape to the exterior once you are done packing.

Send the device to Sony, they will take about a week to receive and process. Assuming they cannot repair the unit they will issue a simular designed device (refurb) in exchange for your non-working device. You must pay the $99 fee over the phone prior to them sending you any packaging.

edit: takes about 2-3 weeks for the complete process from phone call to replacement/repaired unit coming back to you.

Im not sure if that is completely true. I called sony about it a while back and the girl i talked to said they could either fix mine or for $99 trade it for a slim model. I specifically asked about fixing mine though because i have one of the rare 4 usb port backwards compatible models.


Sent from LG Thrill using Tapatalk

[Gtracer]

Im not sure if that is completely true. I called sony about it a while back and the girl i talked to said they could either fix mine or for $99 trade it for a slim model. I specifically asked about fixing mine though because i have one of the rare 4 usb port backwards compatible models.


Sent from LG Thrill using Tapatalk

My ps3 of 4 years took a crappy on me about 6 months ago. This is the process as it was explained to me. Had to send my ps to their repair facility in Laredo; Was sent back a re-furb of the same design.

[TeknoBlast]

Sony will trade out your old style for a refurb slim model for $99, FYI.


https://service1.us.playstation.com/...A-7DA19EACBC50

Sony still does this option? I did this about 2 or 3 years ago, but the price was $150. I still have that PS3 and it's been working great. Oh yeah, they sent me a 160GB model.

[miketyler]

I had to call them. Only certain models are eligible for the upgrade option and mine was not one of them. It was $99 flat rate to repair it. I think I'll just sell it as-is and use the proceeds towards a newer slim unit.

Are there any benefits in the later model units besides slimmed down case?

[westom]

Even with my elaborate surge protection on the rack, I guess the last storm we had took its toll on my electronics again and this time its the PS3.

You might want to finally learn from the events. Protectors adjacent to electronics do not provide surge protection, do not claim to protect from typically destructive surges, and have a history of even making damage easier to adjacent appliances.

Reason for your damage was explained in detail in Whole house surge protection?

Separate myths from hard facts by only giving credence to claims made with numbers. Or view spec numbers for your rack solution. It did the near zero protection that its numbers said it would do.

Effective protection means you do not even know a transient existed. Even the protector remains functional even after a direct lightning strike. The superior solution costs about $1 per protected appliance. And is found in every facility that cannot have damage.

[Darren M]

You might want to finally learn from the events. Protectors adjacent to electronics do not provide surge protection, do not claim to protect from typically destructive surges, and have a history of even making damage easier to adjacent appliances.

Reason for your damage was explained in detail in Whole house surge protection?

Separate myths from hard facts by only giving credence to claims made with numbers. Or view spec numbers for your rack solution. It did the near zero protection that its numbers said it would do.

Effective protection means you do not even know a transient existed. Even the protector remains functional even after a direct lightning strike. The superior solution costs about $1 per protected appliance. And is found in every facility that cannot have damage.

So I've read the linked thread. (Good read.) I've got a BIT of a EET background, not nearly as much as some, I present the following hoping for a simple answer.

Your thoughts on a UPS, APC UPS 500 to be exact. Is this good protection from a "hit" or just a good way to keep small things running when the power goes out?

Also, what are YOUR computer, xbox, big TV, etc, protection practices at your home?

(No malice intended, I'm genuinely curious.)

[westom]

Your thoughts on a UPS, APC UPS 500 to be exact. Is this good protection from a "hit" or just a good way to keep small things running when the power goes out?

First, read APC specifications. Where does it claim to protect from any typically destructive hit? It does not. It claims to protect from transients that are made irrelevant by circuits already inside electronic appliances.

Second, that UPS connects an appliance directly to AC mains when not in battery backup mode. Then power is 'cleanest'. An anomaly means a UPS takes maybe ten milliseconds to switch to batteries. 300 consecutive surges could have passed through the appliance. Because hits are that fast (microseconds). And the UPS is that slow.

Third, power directly from AC mains is clean. Power from battery circuits simulating AC power is some of the 'dirtiest' power inside a house. And perfectly ideal for any electronics. Because best protection is already inside electronics. Transients that may even damage a protector are too tiny to harm most appliances.

I asked for specification numbers that define that protection. Hundreds of joules? Near zero. Just enough above zero so that its advertising can claim 100% protection. Subjective claims can be lies. That is legal. Instead, view spec numbers that list protection from each type of surge.

UPS has only one function - to provide temporary and 'dirtiest' power during a blackout.

[Darren M]

UPS has only one function - to provide temporary and 'dirtiest' power during a blackout.

So I read all of that to get to what I've quoted. I get it, and THANK YOU. However, you didn't answer the question of what YOU do for your prized possessions in your house.

[westom]

However, you didn't answer the question of what YOU do for your prized possessions in your house.

A direct connection to earth. A 'whole house' protector on incoming wires that cannot be earthed directly. According to the IEEE, that will do "99.5%-99.9%" of protection. More than sufficient protection for most any home.

[bud--]

The best information on surges and surge protection I have seen is at:

http://www.lightningsafety.com/nlsi_lhm/IEEE_Guide.pdf

- "How to protect your house and its contents from lightning: IEEE guide for surge protection of equipment connected to AC power and communication circuits" published by the IEEE in 2005 (the IEEE is a major organization of electrical and electronic engineers).
And also:

http://www.nist.gov/public_affairs/practiceguides/surgesfnl.pdf

- "NIST recommended practice guide: Surges Happen!: how to protect the appliances in your home" published by the US National Institute of Standards and Technology in 2001

The IEEE surge guide is aimed at those with some technical background.

First, read APC specifications. Where does it claim to protect from any typically destructive hit? It does not. It claims to protect from transients that are made irrelevant by circuits already inside electronic appliances.

Nonsense.

Some plug-in protectors even have warranties on protected equipment.

Second, that UPS connects an appliance directly to AC mains when not in battery backup mode. Then power is 'cleanest'. An anomaly means a UPS takes maybe ten milliseconds to switch to batteries. 300 consecutive surges could have passed through the appliance. Because hits are that fast (microseconds). And the UPS is that slow.

The type of UPS commonly used does not intrinsically provide surge protection. The same protection in plug-in protectors is probably always added. You can get higher ratings in plug-in protectors. Comments for plug-in protectors also apply to UPSs

When using a plug-in protector all interconnected equipment needs to be connected to the same protector. External connections, like cable, also need to go through the protector. Connecting all wiring through the protector prevents damaging voltages between power and signal wires. The NIST surge guide suggests that most equipment damage is from high voltage between power and signal wires. An example is in the IEEE surge guide starting page 30.

Third, power directly from AC mains is clean. Power from battery circuits simulating AC power is some of the 'dirtiest' power inside a house. And perfectly ideal for any electronics. Because best protection is already inside electronics. Transients that may even damage a protector are too tiny to harm most appliances.

Nonsense.

Some appliances have no surge protection. Unlikely any have as much protection as a plug-in protector with low ratings.

I asked for specification numbers that define that protection. Hundreds of joules? Near zero. Just enough above zero so that its advertising can claim 100% protection. Subjective claims can be lies. That is legal. Instead, view spec numbers that list protection from each type of surge.

"Each type of surge" is more nonsense. At least in the US, any plug-in protector will have MOVs (protection elements) connected H-G, H-N, N-G. That is all possible power line surges and all modes.

The author of the NIST surge guide investigated how much energy can reach the MOVs in a plug-in protector with US wiring. Branch circuits were 10m and longer, and surges coming in on power wires were up to the largest that has any reasonable probability of occurring. The maximum energy was a surprisingly small 35 joules. In 13 of 15 cases it was 1 joule or less.

Plug-in protectors with much higher ratings are readily available. One of the protectors I am using has 3 MOVs connected H-N, H-G, N-G. Each has a rating of 590 joules, 30,000 surge amps, for a total of 1770 joules, 90,000 surge amps. With high ratings a properly connected plug-in protector is likely to protect from even a very near very strong lightning strike and never fail.

A direct connection to earth. A 'whole house' protector on incoming wires that cannot be earthed directly. According to the IEEE, that will do "99.5%-99.9%" of protection. More than sufficient protection for most any home.

The percentages are for lighting rods, and have no relevance to the discussion here - surge protection. It is typical of westom's supporting 'facts'.

A service panel protector is a good idea.
But from the NIST surge guide:
"Q – Will a surge protector installed at the service entrance be sufficient for the whole house?
A – There are two answers to than question: Yes for one-link appliances [electronic equipment], No for two-link appliances [equipment connected to power AND phone or cable or....]. Since most homes today have some kind of two-link appliances, the prudent answer to the question would be NO – but that does not mean that a surge protector installed at the service entrance is useless."

A service panel protector is very likely to protect anything connected only to power wires. A service panel protector does not, by itself, provide protection from high voltage between power and signal wires.


Westom believes plug-in protectors do not work. He googles for "surge" to spread his beliefs. About everything he says about plug-in protectors is nonsense.

For real science read the IEEE and NIST surge guides. Excellent information on surges and surge protection, And both say plug-in protectors are effective.

[miketyler]

Good info to know again, and admittedly I have no protection on the communication circuits. It took out two other devices connected on the LAN and one sprinkler system controller (non LAN connected). Clearly I dont have the protection I need.

But for now and to stay on topic, are the newer slim units any faster than the fat PS3's? Since I dont game, I am seriously considering replacing the PS3 with a full featured internet connected bluray player.