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  • #46
    Looks great! Have been considering getting rid of my LS1 T/A and building something. This is tempting!

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    • #47
      Ok, I'm at a keyboard now and can share some more pointers with you. This will be LONG!

      - a secret to installing the downpipe is to set it in place before you install the passenger side header. Get two bolts started on the header, then using a bungee cord, you can rotate the downpipe up and out towards the passenger fender and hold it over there with a bungee from side mirror to DP. This is also how I check plug wires, plugs, etc.

      -Speaking up plugs and wires, you most likely WILL have issues burning wires. I've burned through a ton of them and finally have what I think is a solution. Get the fiberglass woven sleeves and put them on every plug wire. I ordered a set of universal Moroso Ultra 40's and made them to the length I wanted. I routed the driver's side in the traditional way, but ran the passenger's side pointing down, using 90* boots, then routed them across and up by the front of the head. #1 is ok to bring straight up, but the others will burn up with all the heat around the header and downpipe.

      -You definitely want to wrap, at a minimum the downpipe. Some folks wrap the crossover, but I didn't. B&G won't warranty the headers if you wrap them. I didn't, but it's up to you. Even with the DP wrapped, my car generates a TON of heat under the hood.

      -I've had a few issues with boost creep, but I've got a 38mm. It looks like yours is a 44mm so you'll probably be fine. Mine also doesn't seem to come straight out like yours, it's kinda pitched down which hurts the flow. I may have to make some changes on mine to make them look more like yours at some point.

      -The only change I had to make at the DP to turbo connection was grinding down the face of the turbo side of the clamp. I don't recall the flanges being a different OD, it just had something to with the spacing between the two unless you ground down the flange. I can look closer at mine to see.

      -For the exhaust, I used a 3-1/2" to (2) 2-1/2" Y made by Flowmaster and ordered from Jeg's. I also bought a 3-1/2" cutout and took it all to the muffler shop and had them tie it all into the stock muffler locations. I run through mufflers on the street and open the cutout at the track. Also, if you have flowmasters, get rid of them and get a superturbo style, non-chambered muffler.

      -If you're going to keep your AC, you're probably going to rupture that line that goes from the firewall to the condenser. It has a flex line in it that's directly under the passenger header. Mine busted going down the highway and scared the crap out of me when it started smoking like crazy. Some guys have had luck getting a custom line made that goes through the strut tower and keeps it away from the heat. Mine's a convertible, so I just removed the AC.


      I'm sure there's more, but I'm drawing a blank for now. Let me know of any other questions you might have.

      BTW, I'm from Beaumont and a lot of my family still lives there. I don't make it that direction very often, but am familiar with the area.

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      • #48
        Originally posted by Doug Hatton View Post
        Ok, I'm at a keyboard now and can share some more pointers with you. This will be LONG!

        - a secret to installing the downpipe is to set it in place before you install the passenger side header. Get two bolts started on the header, then using a bungee cord, you can rotate the downpipe up and out towards the passenger fender and hold it over there with a bungee from side mirror to DP. This is also how I check plug wires, plugs, etc.

        -Speaking up plugs and wires, you most likely WILL have issues burning wires. I've burned through a ton of them and finally have what I think is a solution. Get the fiberglass woven sleeves and put them on every plug wire. I ordered a set of universal Moroso Ultra 40's and made them to the length I wanted. I routed the driver's side in the traditional way, but ran the passenger's side pointing down, using 90* boots, then routed them across and up by the front of the head. #1 is ok to bring straight up, but the others will burn up with all the heat around the header and downpipe.

        -You definitely want to wrap, at a minimum the downpipe. Some folks wrap the crossover, but I didn't. B&G won't warranty the headers if you wrap them. I didn't, but it's up to you. Even with the DP wrapped, my car generates a TON of heat under the hood.

        -I've had a few issues with boost creep, but I've got a 38mm. It looks like yours is a 44mm so you'll probably be fine. Mine also doesn't seem to come straight out like yours, it's kinda pitched down which hurts the flow. I may have to make some changes on mine to make them look more like yours at some point.

        -The only change I had to make at the DP to turbo connection was grinding down the face of the turbo side of the clamp. I don't recall the flanges being a different OD, it just had something to with the spacing between the two unless you ground down the flange. I can look closer at mine to see.

        -For the exhaust, I used a 3-1/2" to (2) 2-1/2" Y made by Flowmaster and ordered from Jeg's. I also bought a 3-1/2" cutout and took it all to the muffler shop and had them tie it all into the stock muffler locations. I run through mufflers on the street and open the cutout at the track. Also, if you have flowmasters, get rid of them and get a superturbo style, non-chambered muffler.

        -If you're going to keep your AC, you're probably going to rupture that line that goes from the firewall to the condenser. It has a flex line in it that's directly under the passenger header. Mine busted going down the highway and scared the crap out of me when it started smoking like crazy. Some guys have had luck getting a custom line made that goes through the strut tower and keeps it away from the heat. Mine's a convertible, so I just removed the AC.


        I'm sure there's more, but I'm drawing a blank for now. Let me know of any other questions you might have.

        BTW, I'm from Beaumont and a lot of my family still lives there. I don't make it that direction very often, but am familiar with the area.
        Thanks for all the info and help!

        Comment


        • #49
          I forgot to confirm with you which turbo you have. Masterpower MPT-70? That's what mine is.

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          • #50
            yes MPT-70

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            • #51
              So I guess I need to update this thread!


              I need to fix all the other pics!

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