glad to hear you got it back though, did they hit you for fee's on the A3, or was that the 30 day shit i was talking about?
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Originally posted by LaserSVT View PostFor a four door it is. Its easy to get a sub 4 second run out of it too that does not require 12 gallons of fuel.
Hold ESP button for full off, shift to "S" (stands for Super Duper Speed), hold brake, bring to 1000 RPM, nail throttle while releasing brake, ???, profit.
Its no Tesla or Charger Hellcat but it sure is a whole lot cheaper!Originally posted by Tremor14 View PostIs it?Originally posted by LaserSVT View PostIts no old non running Chevy truck in the driveway kinda cheap but a new Kia cost more.
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It is strange the shaft is vibrating at low speed. When the bearing on my sisters b5 failed it was only a slight vibration at high speed and clunk under initial braking.
When you did the output shaft seal did you leave registration marks on the shaft and flanges?
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Originally posted by NoClassic View PostIt is strange the shaft is vibrating at low speed. When the bearing on my sisters b5 failed it was only a slight vibration at high speed and clunk under initial braking.
When you did the output shaft seal did you leave registration marks on the shaft and flanges?
But its home and in my shop. I now know why our customers love us so much. We know what we are doing, dont keep the car forever, dont charge an arm and a leg and a kidney and manage to fix the issue without creating others.
I will get it in the air tomorrow and put the exhaust back together and figure out what the issue is.Good judgment comes from bad decisions and a lot of that comes from bad judgment.
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I am leaning heavily to the carrier bearing. She said they moved it around a few times but nothing worked. They also reclocked the DS as well.
But ya know, the vibration isnt from anything they did. According to them.Good judgment comes from bad decisions and a lot of that comes from bad judgment.
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If they are just guessing at the orientation they are idiots and forgot to mark everything before pulling. The only way I see any damage being done to the bearing is if they drove it at high speed with a bad vibration caused by improper orientation.
Hopefully you can locate your old marks and go from there.
I would also have a real hard look at the rear subframe chassis alignment. If you have a rack throw it on there to confirm everything is good.
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Driveshaft appears bent. Does the hula. Shakes whole car when at 30 MPH in the air. I see fresh damage to the driveshaft where it was dropped on the inner flange and caught something (lift lip or mount bolt is my guess) and it ovaled the CV hole. I know for a FACT it was perfectly round before as we just changed that shaft seal and I sepnt much time staring at it to make sure it went back in the same way. It had no impact marks and it was round.
So I need a new complete $900 drive-shaft. Thanks Audi of North Austin. You rock! Oops, misspelled suck.Good judgment comes from bad decisions and a lot of that comes from bad judgment.
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So going over it all there is a lot going wrong. The rear section of the driveshaft was not indexed and now spews grease. That cause me to notice a thin shield around the rear diffs flange that is not perfectly true. If the shield is bent, no biggie but if its the diffs flange for the driveshaft that is bent then we have major issues. In addition to that I can not tell what is going on for the rear subframe. All of the washers have a clean spot in a different place and none of their arrows point the same way. The gas tank is not bolted all the way in and the straps are about 1/2" away from the body. The carrier bearing has so many scratches in my floor from marking position I have no clue which one is right so I tried them all before I noticed the ovaled CV. They also never installed the brake lines back in the bracket and they broke one parking brake line retaing clip and substituted it with a zip-tie.
Here are some pics. They also bent the hell out of my heat shields.
In this picture its the rear diff connection with the D/S spewing CV grease. That liped flange on the diff is the part where it fluctuates a mm while rotating in its distance relation to the housing. Also in the other pics the two red lines show distance the bracket is from the body.
Good judgment comes from bad decisions and a lot of that comes from bad judgment.
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