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Well, I think I broke it...

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  • #31
    Originally posted by jyro View Post
    any idea why the valves hit?
    Got it tore down some more and it sheared the timing pin off in the camshaft, and shattered the thrust plate. Pulled the other head and all of the valves in that head are bent as well. The rear main cap was pulled forward by the main girdle and totally destroyed the girdle as well. I'll try to get some pics of that tonight.
    http://www.69ecatsstrip.com

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    • #32
      GOTDAYUM! That is a job well done, sir.
      ZOMBIE REAGAN FOR PRESIDENT 2016!!! heh

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      • #33
        The consensus on the failure is oil starvation due to a poorly located oil pump pickup tube and some recent suspension upgrades that were yielding mid 1.30 60' times. Front sump oil pan FTL.
        http://www.69ecatsstrip.com

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        • #34
          Originally posted by Lusk Racing View Post
          The consensus on the failure is oil starvation due to a poorly located oil pump pickup tube and some recent suspension upgrades that were yielding mid 1.30 60' times. Front sump oil pan FTL.
          That'll do it, errytime. Time to hit up Canton or Kevco.

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          • #35
            Originally posted by racrguy View Post
            That'll do it, errytime. Time to hit up Canton or Kevco.
            Thought I was good with the 7qt Milodon with their pickup, but after looking at the placement of the pickup... Live and learn. I am going to convert it to a rear sump setup this winter and hopefully not have this problem again. Here's the in car video of the last pass.

            http://www.69ecatsstrip.com

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            • #36
              Originally posted by Lusk Racing View Post
              Thought I was good with the 7qt Milodon with their pickup, but after looking at the placement of the pickup... Live and learn. I am going to convert it to a rear sump setup this winter and hopefully not have this problem again. Here's the in car video of the last pass.

              You need no more than 3/8 to 1/2 of clearance between the bottom of the pan and pickup.

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              • #37
                Originally posted by racrguy View Post
                You need no more than 3/8 to 1/2 of clearance between the bottom of the pan and pickup.
                That positioning was good, it was just not at the back of the sump. Closer to the middle.
                http://www.69ecatsstrip.com

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by Lusk Racing View Post
                  That positioning was good, it was just not at the back of the sump. Closer to the middle.
                  aaaaaah gotcha. Were there any trap doors in the sump? A lot of companies sell pickups to go with their pans.

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by racrguy View Post
                    aaaaaah gotcha. Were there any trap doors in the sump? A lot of companies sell pickups to go with their pans.
                    The pickup was Milodon's too, it was the matching one for the pan I had. I just didn't even think about having to check where it landed in the sump. There is also a small shelf at the back of the sump to keep the oil from running all the way back to the shallow end, but I guess it wasn't enough.
                    http://www.69ecatsstrip.com

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                    • #40
                      That's odd. Was it a drag specialized pan, or just a "performance street" pan?

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                      • #41
                        Originally posted by racrguy View Post
                        That's odd. Was it a drag specialized pan, or just a "performance street" pan?
                        I honestly don't remember. Since I was looking for increased capacity when I bought it, who knows. I took the car from an mid 11 second NA setup to a high 9 second Procharged combo over the winter. The boosted/fast street car learning curve has been regularly whipping my ass ever since. I am getting my head wrapped around a lot of it, but some things you just get to learn the hard way. I got my free pass earlier in the year when a wiring mistake led to the digital 7 not pulling timing like it was supposed to. Along with a couple other rookie mistakes and a timing pointer that was off about 4 degrees. It would run HARD until about halfway through second gear and then start shooting ducks. When we finally found the issue, we figured out it was makiing 21 pounds of boost @ 42 degrees of timing!! Got real lucky I didn't scatter it then.
                        http://www.69ecatsstrip.com

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                        • #42
                          Damn, I'd say that's a free pass. lol

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                          • #43
                            Yeah, apparently when you switch the polarity on an MSD distributor it will still run the engine, it just won't allow the box to make the adjustments. Changed to a crank trigger and everything worked a lot better.
                            http://www.69ecatsstrip.com

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                            • #44
                              A 7-quart pan with appropriate baffles should easily handle a 1.3 60'.

                              Sorry to see it dude. I still dig the hell out of the car, even when it's an expensive paperweight!
                              When the government pays, the government controls.

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                              • #45
                                Originally posted by 46Tbird View Post
                                A 7-quart pan with appropriate baffles should easily handle a 1.3 60'.

                                Sorry to see it dude. I still dig the hell out of the car, even when it's an expensive paperweight!
                                Thanks. It won't be a paperweight for long. I have the technology, I can rebuild it.

                                I keep thinking I am going to get it down there for a race one of these days and meet some of you clowns. LOL.
                                http://www.69ecatsstrip.com

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