And it begins...2003 S-10 transformation

[SEB]

I get 22 mpg in stock trim. I am hoping 5.3/6 spd I get somewhere north of 30 mpg.

I get 21 mpg out of my 4.8 in a Extended full size GMC, So 30 mpg seems doable actually in that little truck. I had a 2002 5.3 Extended Cab Silverado & with tune & March Ram Air & UPD Cold Air & Exhaust it would get 24 mpg hwy & ran mid to low 15s in the 1/4. I bet with a 5.3 in that little truck you would run mid 14s all day & get 30+ & not to mention being a standard would get you better mileage.

[black2002ls]

There are guys out there with 2.2l claiming 30+ mpg and I don't have a clue how. Ihave an e-fan, k&n drop in, no a/c and run synthetic fluids, best I have managed has been 22.5, with this truck and my 2002

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[black2002ls]

Took a nice little trip from Greenville to Plano, Plano to Dallas, and then Dallas to Greenville this morning for my interview. The new shocks made a HUGE difference. I don't remember at what point the rear shocks went bad but the ride was horrible the damn thing bounced all over the road. These gas-a-just's are a bit on the stiff side, but its a truck, its not supposed to ride like a Caddy. I've got a pair for the front, they will get put on when I do the spindles on Tuesday.

[UserX]

looks slow

[black2002ls]

looks slow

Oh it is, very very slow. I don't think I could get out of my own way if my life depended on it.

[Z06killinsbf]

Mine gets about 24 avg no matter how I abuse ( I mean drive) it.

As for the salvage yard, they aint too keen to what can be added or modified so go in their like you're redoing a stock blazer. Most of the time if you get a bunch of random crap they will just throw some random charge for it all.

[black2002ls]

Drop spindles showed up today. Not sure if I will try and tackle this tonight/tomorrow morning, or wait until Tuesday when I am off. I ordered the "generic" spindles from The Suspension Source. Opened the box up to check the contents, much to my surprise, they sent me Belltech spindles, at least that is what all of the propaganda says. Belltech sticker, belltech installation sheet, and the belltech part number stamped on them. Has anyone here done a 2/3 drop (spindles/blocks) and know about how long it took start to finish?

[lowthreeohz]

i think the hardest part of swapping spindles for me was finding the sweet spot on the upper to get the stock fucker off.

[black2002ls]

So much for dropping this thing myself. I attempted the drivers side and couldnt get the spindle to break free from the lower ball joint. I put it back together, replacing the rotor wheel bearings and brake pads. Went to the passenger side and replaced the ABS sensor and overhauled the brakes. Now comes the reason I will end up paying to have the drop done. The lower ball joint on the drivers side needs replaced, the boot is shredded. Finally, my back can't take it. If I had a lift, it might not be a big deal. However, stooped over the front end, my back just can't handle it right now

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[Hmbre97]

Pickle fork and a BFH will take care of that

[black2002ls]

Pickle fork and a BFH will take care of that

Now that I know the ball joints need replaced the pickle fork would be the tool of choice. A lot of guys have trouble with them tearing up the grease bulbs.

Now comes the difficult decision. Knowing the ball joints need replaced, I want to do the tall upper/lower joints. It will require tubular upper A-arms. The parts can be had for ~300. This is utilizing circle track arms. The problem with this is that the cross bars are metal on metal. The best scenarios I have heard are the arms lasting ~15k miles. This is after modifying them with zerk fittings and greaseing them every oil change. The better arms start at ~350.

Benefits are a better camber curve and more room for the LSx swap.

Pitfalls are the economy arms have reliability issues due to metal on metal. It will cost 3x what it would to simply replace the ball joints

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[Brn N Rubr]

I believe that the TR-6060 uses a very similar, if not the same, case as a T-56. They are basically the same tranny with better internals.

[Z06killinsbf]

I'm running the PP tall uppers with stock arms, one trick is to get the 1500 2wd upper ball joints. I'm not sure on what year model but they are much cheaper. If you need someone to drop the truck let me know, I've done a few.

[YALE]

Spring for the better parts, hoss.

Now that I know the ball joints need replaced the pickle fork would be the tool of choice. A lot of guys have trouble with them tearing up the grease bulbs.

Now comes the difficult decision. Knowing the ball joints need replaced, I want to do the tall upper/lower joints. It will require tubular upper A-arms. The parts can be had for ~300. This is utilizing circle track arms. The problem with this is that the cross bars are metal on metal. The best scenarios I have heard are the arms lasting ~15k miles. This is after modifying them with zerk fittings and greaseing them every oil change. The better arms start at ~350.

Benefits are a better camber curve and more room for the LSx swap.

Pitfalls are the economy arms have reliability issues due to metal on metal. It will cost 3x what it would to simply replace the ball joints

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[black2002ls]

I started picking up the parts to re work the front suspension. Rebuilt lower arms, bigger front sway bar, and all that is left are upper arms and ball joints.

It is about time for new tires, so I have been trying to decide on wheels. I am basically building a factory mutt. S-10 with "factory" upgrades.

I am trying to decide which vette wheels to go with. I have a black regular cab short bed truck. Here are a few I am looking at

C4 ZR1's



C4 sawblades. I was out on these until I saw this picture



C5's



C5 wagon wheels



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