Who knows full size Blazers/Jimmys?

[SMKR]

1. It has emblems on both sides. The side trim was optional. Usually only the two tone ones got it.
2. It appears to be rust. You can also see rust on the tailgate. But considering where its at you have to expect rust.

Hmmm yea I don't mind surface rust just not salt ridden chunks missing rust.

[John Galt]

I had a 91 last year of sfa. The difs are weak. I broke both on 35s. Otherwise they are great. A lot of red and blue interiors In these

Diffs are weak unfortunately. 10 bolt in the front and a 10 or 12 bolt out back.... 1 ton axles are not hard to find and are a bolt in for these.

[rickl]

Watch out for worn steering and front suspension items, it's more expensive than you think. I have had several and got burned before.

[stevo]

I'm nut sure of the actual years, but look for cracks in the frame around the steering box.

Stevo

[LaserSVT]

Watch out for worn steering and front suspension items, it's more expensive than you think. I have had several and got burned before.

I just replaced my inner and outer tie rods, center link, adjustment sleeves, pitman arm and idler arm all with AC Delco parts for right at $200.... actually I think it was right under $200.

[TexasT]

I'm nut sure of the actual years, but look for cracks in the frame around the steering box.

Stevo

X2 on the frame at the steering box, especially if lifted and/or larger tires have been added.

I had a 73 way back and that is what took it down. We cruised a lot of Cooper and did a lot of muddin I south Arlington and Mansfield before it became city. This was taked around 85 down where andalusia meets up with 287 where the tornado came through before those houses were built there.



It was a great truck. As stated normal probs for those years. I beat it like a rented mule. Wheeled it when ever we could and had the top off (about 300lbs) when ever possible.

[KILLER69]

I just picked up a 1988 Jimmy last week. The only rust on it is on the tailgate but that is pretty common on these things.

[HarrisonTX]

The frame cracking has been addressed at lenght on CK5.com, there are kits to weld to avoid it, but it's really just some plate steel added on the frame by the steering box

[Ratt]

Is that rust or dirt?

[KILLER69]

Probably rust going by where it is located. Mine has a light spot on the driver side.

[mystic96]

Is that rust or dirt?

Surface rust, nothing serious yet but a sign of things to come, or a sign that things might be worse where the camera doesn't show. I'd be pretty skeptical of buying a car off ebay from South Dakota and never getting a chance to look at it first hand or hear it, drive it, etc.

There are plenty local ones and haven't spent 30 years in cold and snowy weather.

Here is the one we paid $800 for from a guy in Stephenville...aired up the tires and drove it back to Euless that night, and had fun with it for almost a year. Should've kept it...

[dblack1]

These are still to easy to find to be buying one from a rust state. I'd also want one with the TBI. Just me and my carb hating.

[rickl]

I just replaced my inner and outer tie rods, center link, adjustment sleeves, pitman arm and idler arm all with AC Delco parts for right at $200.... actually I think it was right under $200.

Looks like most people here are talking about the earlier models. The 97-98 models are what I thought were expensive. And yes, labor is the expensive part.

[Treybiz]

I guess I could add some somewhat useful information here instead of stiring the pot. I've had about a dozen blazers and blazer/tahoes from the 73-91 era and the 93-99 era respectively.

Older Stuff: Lots of good info has already been covered here. CK5.com can be a very good resource for the 91 and older versions. The 10 bolt axles can survive with stockish size tires and a careful driver offroad. Much bigger tires and/ or aggressive driving off the pavement and you will want to upgrade. About the only thing thats getting tough about finding the 88-91 is they are starting to get somewhat collectable or completely hacked backwoods deer lease/ mud truck rusty piles of crap. I would really like to find a near perfect 91 myself but those can command top dollar. Late 70s/ Early 80s are usually the best deals and can be found in good shape. I picked up an 86 that ran great with 6" lift and 35s in college for $800. Just needed a front driveshaft and the newer front clip conversion finished. It was nearly rust free and I should have kept it for a fun weekend driver.

Newer Stuff: I love the 93+ full size blazers, tahoes, and yukons but, if you are after a fun weekend toy they really aren't that in stock trim. They do represent however in my opinion the last real rock solid chevy platform (other than the IFS/front axle). My current plan is to find a 97-99 Very Very Clean 4dr tahoe or yukon and start a daily driver/ camping/ do it all build over the next few years. Rebuild from front to back with Solid Axle Swap (44/ 14 bolt) and build exactly what I want.

[LaserSVT]

Looks like most people here are talking about the earlier models. The 97-98 models are what I thought were expensive. And yes, labor is the expensive part.

They are. They are not. It really isnt unless your mechanic is a crook.


As for front end parts they are all the same pretty much going from the 70s-90s. Only real difference is the drag link as opposed to a center link with inner tie rods. Costs are still within a few bucks of each other.
Also my shop charges about $240 for all the front end components I listed earlier to be replaced. Its a little less on a 4x4 because less parts..... unless its and IFS 4x4 then its the same.