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It looks to me like something contaminated your finish either before or after. Conditions have sucked for painting in a garage recently. I'd let it get some sun and wait before you start sanding. How much material did you spray for your base/clear? Might have to lay it different this time.
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No, it's not easy. My top fish eyed like a mother fucker the other day. Had to sand the top back down and reshoot it.Originally posted by mstng86 View PostComment
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This is what happens when WD40 is sprayed. Fisheye.Originally posted by JC316 View Post
I'm with the guys that are calling moisture/humidity the issue. Sand it down and get after it. Sucks but what ya gonna do?Comment
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Any paint that contains isocyanates is moisture cure. It requires moisture to cure. If the humidity is high or there is water then you can count on problems. It will accelerate the curing process and not allow solvents to come to the top.Comment
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It is not in the clearcoat. Something under the basecoat is showing its face. Let it cure then sand and repaint. That is the only solution. You can always fix anything. Too many people are worried about screwing up, if you do, just fix it.
CNComment
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Looking at after Xmas redoing it. Should I stick it out with the bright ass, chrome like silver of do my plan B of flat black? I also thought of maybe redoing the silver and putting on a candy or even 2 toning it. We have some black and non metallic navy blue. I also have 1/2 a gallon of grabber blue... Hmmmmm twins?Comment
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Yeah, but I hadn't used any WD40. The second time with the clear coat fish eyed too, but not near as bad. I have a wood burning stove that keeps the garage warm, but I am wondering if the smoke that comes out when I feed it more wood is settling and fucking it up.Originally posted by mikec View PostComment
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That may be your issue, as there will be contaminants settling from that smoke, and wood does have sap in it, which a quick google search will show is carried by the smoke. Honestly, you never know what will mess it up.Originally posted by JC316 View Post
Do you have adequate filtration on your line? The separator/water trap needs to be approx. 25' from the compressor, as the water in the system is still vapor (super heated in compressor) prior to that distance, allowing any oil in the water to get through.
<---Mil-spec painter for 8 years. Don't miss those days.Comment
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That's definitely sounds like contaminants... are you sure you didn't have something in your air line? Did you have any sort of aerosol or oil near your compressor intake? I had some excessive compressor oil leak into my inlet on my compressor and ruin the end of a paint job several years ago. My inline filter didn't catch it.Originally posted by JC316 View Post"When the people find that they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the republic." -Benjamin Franklin
"A democracy will continue to exist up until the time that voters discover that they can vote themselves generous gifts from the public treasury." -Alexander Fraser TytlerComment
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need to get a propane or electric heater in there.Comment
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I bet it was the conditions. I've seen that happen before.
Our company has a 40 rule. Usually from manufacturer recommend specs.
Don't ever paint when it's under 40° or will get under 40° within 24-48 hours or recommended cure time if using an accelerator. Do not paint if the humidity is above 40%. The paint wont set property. If it rained the next day I'd be willing to bet the humidity was 60% or higher.Comment
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Urethane will not cure under 40. Humidity rule is usually 60. If you look at recommended flash times and dry times, they are all based on a 70 degree/ 50 percent humidity day.Comment
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And there is a difference between "dry" and "cured". Don't confuse the two.Comment
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