Mild rubbing compound

[Gasser64]

I saw that there lol. Stopped and looked at it, but ended up going the rustoleum route. So I'm assuming you're saying to get some real, autobody grade clear coat and put it up in thur?

Then maybe I could skip the rubbing compound

[CJ]

http://www.amazon.com/3M-05928-Fines...=3m+finesse+it

Finesse-It or Meguiars 205 are both good final polishes. For cutting you want the 3M 06060, or Meguiars 105. I switched from 3M to meguiars several years ago. I use the 105 and then 205, quick and easy.

[Gasser64]

First let me say I'm an autobody newb. But putting more scratches in something, never really seemed like a way to make it shine. Even if those scratches are very fine. That's what you're doing, right? If I wetsanded these, or even just use rubbing compound, I'm slightly scratching it. Its all got a grit to it. How does this make it shine more, without waxing afterward?

[CJ]

First let me say I'm an autobody newb. But putting more scratches in something, never really seemed like a way to make it shine. Even if those scratches are very fine. That's what you're doing, right? If I wetsanded these, or even just use rubbing compound, I'm slightly scratching it. Its all got a grit to it. How does this make it shine more, without waxing afterward?

You're flattening the finish by cutting out the high spots. Then you polish the scratches out and are left with a flat mirror like finish. Now if that's a metallic paint you should clear it first before wet sanding. Silver is one of the few metallic paints that it isn't that bad on, but generally you want to clear metallic paint before you polish, to prevent cutting into the flakes, and changing the appearance.

[Gasser64]

So I did that part right at least. Its just that the clear didn't really leave much of a reflective surface. Going to parts store to buy recommended polish now. Will post up results.

[inline 6]

Finesse-It or Meguiars 205 are both good final polishes. For cutting you want the 3M 06060, or Meguiars 105. I switched from 3M to meguiars several years ago. I use the 105 and then 205, quick and easy.

Do you notice a big difference going to the 205 after using the 105?

[CJ]

Do you notice a big difference going to the 205 after using the 105?

oh yeah. 105 will get the scratches out, but leave a haze, 205 removes the haze and gives it the wet look.

[Gasser64]

oh yeah. 105 will get the scratches out, but leave a haze, 205 removes the haze and gives it the wet look.

And then you're finished? Nothing more to do beyond that?

[inline 6]

I have both and was so impressed after the 205 I quit. I should try the 105 just to see. I am scared though that it will make me want to do the whole thing again.

[CJ]

And then you're finished? Nothing more to do beyond that?

you can wax it if you want?

[CJ]

I have both and was so impressed after the 205 I quit. I should try the 105 just to see. I am scared though that it will make me want to do the whole thing again.

105 is more aggressive, you can do an entire car with just 205 if you want, you use 105 to get it done quicker. I use it on a lot of stuff, gun stocks, various paints, etc.

This stock was done with lacquer, and then wet sanded and polished with 205:

[inline 6]

Ok reverse what I said then. I did the whole jeep in the more aggressive compound. I skipped the polishing compound.

[Gasser64]

you can wax it if you want?

I'm trying to get a concrete method down that will always work.

So would you say that 105 and 205 are all you really need, for pretty much any instance? As I said I know little of body/paint work. After someone painted a car, they could use that stuff, then a wax, and that's it?

Also, for correcting an old paint job, are those going to be what you'd want? I know it doesn't have to be the meguires brand, but the basics must be the same. Heavy buffing compound, then mild buffing compound, then wax.

[Z06killinsbf]

Go spend some time on the Mequires forum. They have before and after posts everyday. Give you an idea of the process

[CJ]

I'm trying to get a concrete method down that will always work.

So would you say that 105 and 205 are all you really need, for pretty much any instance? As I said I know little of body/paint work. After someone painted a car, they could use that stuff, then a wax, and that's it?

Also, for correcting an old paint job, are those going to be what you'd want? I know it doesn't have to be the meguires brand, but the basics must be the same. Heavy buffing compound, then mild buffing compound, then wax.

For cars, wash, clay bar, 105, 205, wax.