Looking at a buffer...

[inline 6]

is this setup worth a shit?

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UW1IQU/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687642&pf_rd_s= lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B003WHCLHS&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX 0DER&pf_rd_r=0R18PNQZ95RKKBFCPW0R"]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UW1IQU/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687642&pf_rd_s= lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B003WHCLHS&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX 0DER&pf_rd_r=0R18PNQZ95RKKBFCPW0R[/ame]

[snacksnack]

Not sure about that kit but love my porter cable

[inline 6]

What pads and compound would you recommend for it?

[Shaggin Wagon]

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-7-...w&gclsrc=aw.ds

This is the style and brand I always used. The newest one is lighter than the prior ones which doesnt wear out your arms as much. The pads and compound you can get at a auto paint supply store like English color.

[GeorgeG.]

I also have a Porter Cable dual action polisher. I've done successful paint correction on my personal vehicles using Meguiar's professional line up. Being a DA polisher, I don't have the worry of messing up the finish. As far as worth a shit....really depends what you're going to need it for. For the average weekender removing minor swirls, it'll work fine.

If you're looking to wet sand and buff, I don't think you'll be able to get the friction needed to do that. I once had a custom paint job on a previous truck and there was one spot that got missed by the buffer. I didn't notice it till I got home so I tried the DA polisher with Meguiar's #83 (medium cut), highest speed, with plenty of pressure and it couldn't buff it. Ended up taking it back to the shop to hit that spot.

Also note, the link that Shaggin posted is not a DA polisher so you'll need to be far more careful until you get some experience under you belt.

edit* another tip if you go with the Porter Cable. The side handle will get in the way at some point while buffing and if you're not careful, you'll bump it into the body panels. Also, while the side handle comes in useful, your wrists/forearm will fatigue before you're done. I find myself holding the polisher above the rotary head and using it to apply pressure.

If I was in the market for another polisher, I'd probably look into this one vvv. The only concern I'd have though is the port for brush changes. I'm not so sure brush changes should be common enough to make a port.

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-dual-action-polisher-g110.html?productid=meguiars-dual-action-polisher-g110&channelid=FROOG&utm_source=CSEs&utm_medium=GoogleProductSearch&utm_campaign=CSE&gclid=CLixlbL92sMCFQeNaQodop4A9g#.VNvc1ct0wdU

[ceyko]

Everything GeorgeG. said x2.

I used to rock this one, still have it. Wanna buy it?
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G110V2-Professional-Action-Polisher/dp/B002XOXSI2[/ame]

It worked well for a great finish and minor paint correction. Deeper ones required several runs, but it was impossible to screw up the finish further.

If I remember right, the one you're looking at is just as popular and good. They are also great for getting wax worked in well compared to doing it by hand, I used liquid waxes.

I used to lurk a couple of forums, standard buffers were risky for people not used to them. Read too many screw ups. If you do it for a living though it is the only way. It may take an hour or so longer with the DA polishers, but you're not going to make a mistake - assuming your pads are always clean.

[inline 6]

My daily is an 08' model. I drove it through some brush at one point and it left some nice scratch marks in the clear down both sides that hand buffing would not get out. I want to freshen up the whole paint job but really I want to remove those. They are not past the clear I know that for sure but how much work they will take to remove I am unsure.

[Lone Star Performance]

You are going to have to play with product and pad combinations to see what works for your specific needs. Always start light, and work heavier.

I would start with a Meguiars M105 compound and a white pad to see if that tackles what you are working on with those brush scratches. If it doesn't, then move up to an orange pad.

An orange pad and M105 will leave behind some micromarring on the paint that will then need to be corrected.

Once the big stuff is out, then move to the M205 with a blue pad to get out the light swirls on the rest of the car (if not too bad)

[GeorgeG.]

^^^I agree. That's where experience comes in to have a better idea of a starting point.

I can say that I've removed what sounds to be similar marks in the clear with my DA polisher and the product below. But I do recall it taking a little more time and more than one pass to get it done. Something more of a heavier cut probably could've worked better but I wasn't about to buy a bunch of different products and I didn't want to start with something too coarse. I'm not saying it'll work for yours since clear coat hardness also varies with different manufacturers...just wanted to give you my personal experience.

this

[inline 6]

I really appreciate all the info. I am going to pick up that pc unit and an assortment of pads. And some of the other products mentioned here. A board member last year quoted me a real fair price to do the whole thing and to be honest I will not come out much ahead doing it like this but I will now own the tool and the knowledge.

[ceyko]

I really appreciate all the info. I am going to pick up that pc unit and an assortment of pads. And some of the other products mentioned here. A board member last year quoted me a real fair price to do the whole thing and to be honest I will not come out much ahead doing it like this but I will now own the tool and the knowledge.

You'll certainly understand the difference between those in/out shops and the swirls/other problems they leave behind - and a true detailer.

That's what I don't detail anymore, it was 2 8-12 hour days for a standard Mustang til I was done. Granted, I think glue would have slid right off - but for a daily I'm just too lazy.

[inline 6]

Yeah, I don't "enjoy" the work in the least but I do enjoy the finished product.

[Dlachance]

I have an extra d/a I'll sell ya, $60. I bought it from Nick about 3 years ago. Still works just fine.

[inline 6]

Ok so as far as pads go for a da there are all different colors and I get what they correlate to but which ones should I look at and are most common? Yellow seems to be the harshest and then orange, a pink, white, some other grey, blue etc.....

[Dlachance]

For d/a work, look at the 3m pads. They have the pink/heavy, black/polishing and blue/finishing. Their perfect it system is pretty simple. Using my G100, 3" pink pad and 3M's compound, I can pull out 3000 grit sanding marks in about 5-6 passes.

Lake country makes some good pads. I never got around to working well with their ccs design, so I go with the flat ones. If you are not sanding and are just removing swirls, all you will need is a orange, white and finishing pad. I just received my order from ads, I finally got my hands on their gold pad. Can't wait to try it out on the rotary.

Autodetailingsolutions.net
&
Autogeek.net will be your best bet.



Dylan