My whole car needs to be done. Wasn't done when it was painted, and its looking dull... Any idea what someone would charge to do something like that? Do I go to a detail company or a body shop since wet sanding is involved?
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Originally posted by danielhv View PostMy whole car needs to be done. Wasn't done when it was painted, and its looking dull... Any idea what someone would charge to do something like that? Do I go to a detail company or a body shop since wet sanding is involved?"PSH!!!"
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I believe it was Nason. Don't know how much. It was a semi budget paint job. Not a $200 maaco, paid $1k at a little shop in Arkansas , didn't have money for a $4k job but needed to get something on it so I got what I could afford at the time.. :-(
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Originally posted by danielhv View PostI believe it was Nason. Don't know how much. It was a semi budget paint job. Not a $200 maaco, paid $1k at a little shop in Arkansas , didn't have money for a $4k job but needed to get something on it so I got what I could afford at the time.. :-(
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It matters to the guy buffing it! Some clears get very hard and are a bitch to buff. I'm not saying that it can't be done, it's just a lot harder to do. Most nason clears are not a very high solid product. If it has 3 coats on it you should be ok. What you want to avoid is cutting it so much that you don't have enough uv protection. It's barely enough with 2 coats of the second line clears without buffing. That's how they sell the stuff so cheap, they cut way back on things like the uv package that makes up the clear.
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Ok, so after messing around last night trying to see if some extra buffing and a coat of wax would help any, I can see sanding marks... It looks to me like they didn't use a fine enough grit before spraying the base / clear... I'm sure this affects the reflection or lack thereof.
I was hoping a high solids wax or something would help level it out, but they may be too deep. There is a little orange peel in the clear... kinda wondering if I should attempt to wet sand a small test area (top of fender or something) and buff it out to see if wet sanding would even help out...
Thoughts?
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It depends on the color. If it is a solid color or something close sand and buff might take out the scratches you are seeing. If it is a metallic you will still see the scratches even though the clear is flat. The flakes will lay in a scratch uniformly and you can't do anything about it other than repaint it. If they rushed the job you may be seeing shrinkage due to trapped solvents. when they finally dry you can see shrinkage that may or may not buff out.
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Originally posted by sdun View PostIf the scratches are in the clear it can be sanded and buffed. If they are in the base it can't. (simpler answer)
This sucks.
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Originally posted by danielhv View PostIf it is in the base, what would be the proper way to fix it? Sand it down till its smooth and repaint? Or scuff it, seal, prime, and paint?
This sucks.
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Originally posted by Stephen View Postlets see some pics.. or I can swing by really early one Thursday (like 6:15am ish).. or you could park it out front and I could look at it... wait nevermind, not with your luck with foxbodies...
If you want the high-res version of any of those photos, click the menu button in the bottom right and hit view original, then just zoom in.
Thanks guys!
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