Painters, what guns/paint

[CJ]

You STILL haven't used that damn thing?

If you knew how much shit I do on a daily basis you wouldn't be surprised.

[bcoop]

If you knew how much shit I do on a daily basis you wouldn't be surprised.

Just seems like forever ago that you bought it. Not bagging on you.

[CJ]

Just seems like forever ago that you bought it. Not bagging on you.

It's been a while. I initially bought it to re shoot some panels on my F100. I ended up selling the truck to build up a Jeep. I bought a rolled Jeep TJ and built it up and had to replace a lot of body panels. I have 1 more set of panels and some chassis work to finish and then I'll have my first opportunity to use the gun.

I'm interested in what is a good easy to shoot primer/base/clear I should look for.

[projectPONY]

I'm interested in what is a good easy to shoot primer/base/clear I should look for.

IMO if this is the only paint job you are gonna do, or if it's something you are just gonna do out of the garage, why spend the money on a brand name gun for primer. look into the hvlp gun that harbor freight has. when I'm piddling around in the garage and shooting test panels or experimenting with pearls and metallics my primer goes down with a HF special.

[CJ]

IMO if this is the only paint job you are gonna do, or if it's something you are just gonna do out of the garage, why spend the money on a brand name gun for primer. look into the hvlp gun that harbor freight has. when I'm piddling around in the garage and shooting test panels or experimenting with pearls and metallics my primer goes down with a HF special.

I've debated doing that. Is this because primer has a higher tendency to clog up the more expensive guns?

[projectPONY]

this is what I use when I do a paying job. it's not top of the line, but it gets the job done.

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/devilbiss-finishline-flg-648-primer-gun-value-kit-803096-p-15695.aspx

BTW, you'd be surprised what the HF special can do. I've owned to of them for about 8 or 9 years and they still work fine. they come standard with a 1.4 needle and tip.

[CJ]

this is what I use when I do a paying job. it's not top of the line, but it gets the job done.

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/devilbiss-finishline-flg-648-primer-gun-value-kit-803096-p-15695.aspx

BTW, you'd be surprised what the HF special can do. I've owned to of them for about 8 or 9 years and they still work fine. they come standard with a 1.4 needle and tip.

What exactly would be the difference for primer? I don't want to sacrifice my paint job. My Satajet 2000 has a 1.4 tip. If you're using a different gun for a pay job, that makes me wonder if it's sacrificing quality.

[projectPONY]

a 1.4 setup will get the job done providing that all you're shooting is primer sealers and fillers. if you want to shoot high build polyester primers than you will have to step up to a larger needle setup. my primer gun has a 1.8 setup.

[projectPONY]

What exactly would be the difference for primer? I don't want to sacrifice my paint job. My Satajet 2000 has a 1.4 tip. If you're using a different gun for a pay job, that makes me wonder if it's sacrificing quality.

the SATA guns are known for their great ability to atomize, and that is exactly what they do. better atomization means less orange peel and a nicer flow out which then equals to a lot less work afterwords.

the cheaper guns don't atomize as well, but who cares if the result is a little more orange peel. you have to block sand anyway.

is your main concern the gun's ABILITY to shoot the primer??

[CJ]

the SATA guns are known for their great ability to atomize, and that is exactly what they do. better atomization means less orange peel and a nicer flow out which then equals to a lot less work afterwords.

the cheaper guns don't atomize as well, but who cares if the result is a little more orange peel. you have to block sand anyway.

is your main concern the gun's ABILITY to shoot the primer??

my main concern is your concern why I shouldn't use it, lol.

[projectPONY]

If you're using a different gun for a pay job, that makes me wonder if it's sacrificing quality.

the only reason I use my expensive primer gun is because it atomizes the primer a little better. that means my final block sanding will go a little faster. time is money.

[projectPONY]

my main concern is your concern why I shouldn't use it, lol.

OOOH, I gotcha. if you want to use your SATA for primer, go ahead. you're not gonna damage it. it will work just fine. I wouldn't shoot polyester primers through it though. their viscosity is too great for a 1.4 IMO, you'll end up with an orange peel mess.

I know of several painters that shoot primer with a gun like yours.

[CWO]

this is what I use when I do a paying job. it's not top of the line, but it gets the job done.

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/devilbiss-finishline-flg-648-primer-gun-value-kit-803096-p-15695.aspx

BTW, you'd be surprised what the HF special can do. I've owned to of them for about 8 or 9 years and they still work fine. they come standard with a 1.4 needle and tip.

pretty sure that's what I have. Been a loooong time since I've used it. Well, mine is similar but not for primer, I think.

[CJ]

OOOH, I gotcha. if you want to use your SATA for primer, go ahead. you're not gonna damage it. it will work just fine. I wouldn't shoot polyester primers through it though. their viscosity is too great for a 1.4 IMO, you'll end up with an orange peel mess.

I know of several painters that shoot primer with a gun like yours.

If you wouldn't mind, let me run through a typical paint process and let me know if I'm doing it wrong.

Bleed all water/condensation from air tank. Scuff existing paint and remove any paint with adhesion problems. Shoot with a medium build primer. Wetsand to get any sanding marks out. Thin base paint to spec, adjust HVLP gun to cigar like pattern, shoot vehicle in long passes until covered. Slightly increase flow on gun, thin clear to spec, shoot vehicle with gun slightly closer to panels in long sweeping passes with slight overlap. Additional coats when clear is still tacky. Allow to air dry for a week, wetsand any orange peel.

Is that a reasonable strategy for success? Do I need to invest in an inline drier/condensation collector? Inline air filter? Any other suggestions?

[Chili]

If you wouldn't mind, let me run through a typical paint process and let me know if I'm doing it wrong.

Bleed all water/condensation from air tank. Scuff existing paint and remove any paint with adhesion problems. Shoot with a medium build primer. Wetsand to get any sanding marks out. Thin base paint to spec, adjust HVLP gun to cigar like pattern, shoot vehicle in long passes until covered. Slightly increase flow on gun, thin clear to spec, shoot vehicle with gun slightly closer to panels in long sweeping passes with slight overlap. Additional coats when clear is still tacky. Allow to air dry for a week, wetsand any orange peel.

Is that a reasonable strategy for success? Do I need to invest in an inline drier/condensation collector? Inline air filter? Any other suggestions?

Hey, if you need a vehicle to help "practice" on, I would like to paint this pick-up bed trailer I bought. I would do any prep, and will pay for the paint. The front and inside are all rhino-lined, I just need the two sides and back of the tailgate.